Crypt

I could buy a lightning AV cable but they cost $60 in Australia And there's no cheap Chinese copies EDIT: Not sure if this would even work actually

I have an iPod Touch 5th gen jailbroken on iOS 8.1.2 with PP jailbreak tool. After changing something in the springtomize tweak and respringing, my screen just went black after sliding to unlock. It used to backlight but not anymore (might be wrong, it's hard to tell). I am able to activate Siri by holding the home button but she says no internet connection (my iPod was connected to WiFi so not sure why). If I hold the power and home button for a while I see the apple logo but once iOS boots it goes black I have two tweaks installed that might conflict/glitch and do something like this. They are f.lux and Dim. Dim allows you to set brightness lower than you can through normal apple settings and I'm pretty sure you can set it to 0. I'm not sure why this happened but I need a solution without restoring as it'll update my iPod to an un-jailbreakable firmware. I'm not able to see the library folder in iFunBox to delete these tweaks. I NEED HELP??? Any way to control the iPod whether it's through a computer or the iPod screen?

Hey, I need a SAS/SATA RAID card that supports RAID 1 and has write cache (preferably 256MB or more) and a battery backup unit (BBU). I was looking at the HP P400 but I need support for 4TB drives. It also needs to be under $130 or so (used). Thanks

Yeh but I was looking for something a little more high end. It's alright though. I just moved a Wi-Fi extender from downstairs to up. Works nicely with 70-80Mbps in home theater room. Finding the cheaper ones wasn't hard but it's all I need now. Will probably get one of the under $100 TP-Link kits for downstairs. Thanks

Yeh, I've sort of given up trying to get that D-Link or the Devolo. Just looked at another review of the D-Link kit ($200) and it got reads of only 60Mbps, slower than a $70 TP-Link kit. I'll either just get that TP-Link or supposedly be one of the first to report on a Netcomm NP507.

There is eBay stores that ship it to Australia but I assume it will come with a UK plug. If you or anyone could tell me if it will matter if I use a country plug convertor then I could just buy one from the UK. I guess they just don't manufacture ones with an Australian plug. It is a popular kit in the US so I'm sure if it were available here I could find it somewhere. The reason I ask about the plug is because I know powerline can suffer greatly from surge protection or being on power boards. I don't know much about this area so this could sound pretty stupid.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll take another look at NetComm. Believe it or not, that particular D-Link adapter doesn't appear to be available in Aus.

I'm currently looking for good powerline adapter kits for a room or two upstairs. Wi-Fi is horrible in these 2 rooms and my dad doesn't really want to pay thousands of dollars to get Cat6 installed throughout the house (if labour price is actually cheaper, let me know ). We live in Australia and I can't find the good Devolo or D-Link kits here anywhere. There is places that ship these to Australia but I'm afraid that using a plug converter will stuff up speeds as I know powerline is quite picky with certain configurations. I have little experience in this area of electrical knowledge so please tell me if I'm sounding stupid saying this and I will happily purchase a Devolo 09238 kit / a D-Link DHP-501AV kit from the USA or UK. Pass-through isn't needed, but obviously no problem if the best one does have it. I plan on streaming high bitrate movies and TV shows over Plex and gaming so speed and latency needs to be good, preferably 100Mbps or more. Also, do I need to buy two kits or do I just buy 1 starter kit and another standalone adapter?

If possible, connect the main monitor to a port further to the left your graphics card. May or may not be possible for your configuration with converters, monitor ports, etc. but it's a fix that worked fine for me. There might be a way to do it in the BIOS but I don't recall every seeing such a thing.

I just got mine in the mail today. The almost non-existing bezel looks great and the stand has all the movement options you could want. Not sure about the stand on the Acer H236HL bid but if you don't need the pre-calibrated sRGB preset on the DELL it may not justify the price for looks and possibly the stand but of course, it's up to what you want to do.

DELL U2414H $240 at newegg after $10 rebate. I would definitely grab this 290 on sale right now if you need a $350-400 GPU: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS84DFU/?tag=pcpapi-20 The gigabyte cards are a great choice and this is $190 off right now. A better non-standard anti-aliasing would be getting the game to render at 1440p/4K and downscaling. This is called downsampling. Not sure about NVIDIA Surround with display port daisy-chaining. According to this benchmark, BF4 on ultra will only get you 25-30fps average on BF4 ultra with 3 1080p monitors. If you want 50-60fps average you'd need to put a second 290 in your rig.

Can you boot from a windows disc? Try run hard drive checks and if everything seems fine then try reinstalling XP/your desired OS as it could be some type of corruption but that's just a guess. And that corruption could be due to a degrading hard drive or possibly force shutting down by holding the power button. These are just guesses though. This is just what I would try first.

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For the past few hours I've been searching for ways to improve my print's color accuracy to what I see on my new monitor that I just set up. I've gained some knowledge but I'm still having a pretty hard time getting my prints to match up with what I see on my screen. Setup: GPU - NVIDIA Quadro 2000 (In the NVIDIA control panel I set it to use other applications for all the color settings) Main Monitor - Dell U2414H (Set the monitor preset in the overlay to sRGB and in the Dell Display Manager software I set it to manual mode with the sRGB preset) (This monitor's sRGB setting is pre-calibrated from factory) DSLR Camera - Canon EOS 50D (Shooting mode is set to RAW) Printer - Canon PIXMA MP640 Ink - Canon Genuine Ink (Yellow, Cyan, Magenta, PGBK Black, Photo Black) Print Paper - Canon Genuine Photo Paper Plus Glossy II (4x6") When I select printer settings in the photoshop print dialog there is presets for photo printing (by default they don't actually edit the photo, just print quality, paper type setting, paper size,etc. I always check that everything is correct) Can anyone tell me what I should be doing in order to shoot RAW images and process everything through sRGB with an color accurate print of what I see on my screen? Extra Question- If I decide to switch everything to Adobe RGB for wider color ranges, would I need one of the physical monitor color calibration tools such as the spyder devices? Thanks