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More 3D printed parts from 3dpeople, again nylon SLS:
 

GPU support brackets, sized wide enough to enable me to use two screws to brace the GPUs and still provide spacing for two cards. Huge thanks to @kkpatel87 for the initial models from which these were printed.
 


Run 3 of the I/O cover, this time broken into two components for ease of painting (bottom yellow, top black). It's got a near-interface fit with the IO ports, just needs a ~2mm shim at the bottom.

There isn't really an elegant way to strength the frame of the screen unless you want to take it apart, and manufacture a custom part/frame that is stiffer while trying to keep the form factor. 
 
Only other way really to stiffen would be to adhere a some thick aluminum plate to the whole top case to stiffen it but that is less than appealing. 

An idea is to use some thing like thumb putty around the die area to create a seal, how ever I have yet to have liquid metal fail on me in terms of leakage, even in laptops. Be carefull.

You can get small heat sinks and use thermal tape to apply over the VRM's similar to a GPU. If they are all on the same level plane a single larger unit can also do the job.Generally most lower end boards omit them and as long as your current setup has some incidental airflow and it isn't getting overly hot >100C it will be acceptable. 
 
Here's some examples, some comes with thermal tape:

That's definitely not normal, must be something wrong with the PWM controller on the pump, EKWB should be able to get you a replacement pump no problem. 

Yes that will work as long as the total length of them are of the height of the GPU. 

Not an exact technical name for them but standoff is what it would fall under. Open bench uses something similar and calls them PCI-E standoffs:
https://openbenchtable.com/features/#pcie

Yes that will work as long as the total length of them are of the height of the GPU. 

Not an exact technical name for them but standoff is what it would fall under. Open bench uses something similar and calls them PCI-E standoffs:
https://openbenchtable.com/features/#pcie

No, only nickel, brass and copper should be put together in a loop to guarantee no galvanic corrosion issues the metals. 
 
Check XSPC they make an ultrathin series of rads:
http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-tx-series

You can use a male to male rotary fitting if you have the two ports directly facing each other, but if you want it angled like they are in the photo a set of angled adapters would be necessary in conjunction with the male to male fitting. 
 

I quite like Heatkiller. Comes with a glass tube as standard and RGB is optional.
 
Out of those two options though, EK. Preferably the non-RGB variant but that's probably pretty difficult.

Most modern GPU's have zero RPM mode for noise and you can adjust the fan curve for when you will want it to turn on. At 50C there is nothing to worry about, completely safe. 

Most modern GPU's have zero RPM mode for noise and you can adjust the fan curve for when you will want it to turn on. At 50C there is nothing to worry about, completely safe. 

Hi  @Maurice_97
 
I just did a write up on 
Bykski's excellent service after the sale here:
 
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1211084-bykski-watercooling-products/
 
You can purchase Bykski's products with the confidence that if something doesn't work or goes bad, Bykski will honor their warranty with out any hassle.
 
Good luck on you build.
 
zog

Ah ok it is the same format as a regular D5 but with slightly different specs on the motor. I don't really see it being an issue still, the pump is still more than powerful enough to do the job. Most will keep their pump running at restively low speed for noise and only have it ramp up slightly when under load, having it run at max speed to increase flow doesn't really provide a lot more cooling other than it being noisier. 

Wouldn't recommend it, you would be best to use isopropyl alcohol to clean a PCB. 

Wouldn't recommend it, you would be best to use isopropyl alcohol to clean a PCB. 

Meanwhile 

Nice work! 
This would be best suited as a Status Update. 
 
-Locked-

As Bombastinsator has mentioned a solvent glue for acrylic is best, if you can't readily get your hands on acrylic glue CA glue is also acceptable for acrylic but will not be as strong as dedicated solvent glue. If the adhesive needs to be vicious you can also use clear silicone which sticks to acrylic. 

UPDATE 3:
 
FINALLY got my new TG panel last week. Whole process took 2-months, no one to blame here, I knew it would take time, but it was a very long process.
 

The PMP-500 still does quite well, even today for me.

There's a video that JayzTwoCents made about how much pressure it takes to cause problems in a loop. Spoiler: It's a LOT.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAMmQy8bdXk