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What RGB fan did you plug in most require a dedicated controller for them to work. Unfortunately if it was not the correct RGB protocol then they mos likely will not be accepted for warranty, however if the board still works then you are just out the RGB control. 

I would recommend to use something like 467MP or 468MP which is just an adhesive glue on a roll or sheet, unlike double sided tape there is no film. You will want to remove all the old adhesive before applying to ensure it sits flat and even. 
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8/
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B06ZYW9PGF/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=468mp&qid=1596634307&sr=8-16

It would be best to replace the adhesive afterwards but definitely use a heat gun on low or hairdryer to warm the glue when removing. 

Going sub ambient always comes with a lot of complications from condensation forming to having a viable long term solution so it usually not worth the effort. Phase change would be the most effective at this but costly, similar water chillers can get below subambient. 
 
-Moved to Liquid and Exotic Cooling-

A cable tray underneath or mounting the power bars and such under the desk work well. 
https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/signum-cable-management-horizontal-silver-color-30200253/

They have "neon" like led strips that have a built in diffuser, other than that you would need a diffusser track as suggested to install the LEDs into. 
https://www.amazon.ca/Pearlight-Silicone-Waterproof-Decoration-Signboard/dp/B07R3SK73N/?th=1

You don't want to use abrasive hole saws as it will just melt the plastic, it would be best to have the material backed onto a sheet of sacrificial material like MDF or Plywood and use a regular hole saw to cut through it, for straight cuts you can use a table saw with a finer toothed blade. 
 
If you have access to a laser cutter that would of course yield the best result and also give you polished edges straight out of the machine. 

If you want ARGB(digital) type lights (5V series) then theses would be ones you would want to source
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Decorative-Lighting-Controller/dp/B07WHT2VKK/ref=pd_di_sccai_6/135-1388621-3408828?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07WHT2VKK&pd_rd_r=eab566e7-c118-4318-9728-eeacaa2ddbb4&pd_rd_w=34ZMa&pd_rd_wg=GPuxe&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=HNJM65RR41F61XKQVCSS&psc=1&refRID=HNJM65RR41F61XKQVCSS
 
There are also standard analog RGB type versions, just make sure they are the 12V series.

You don't want to use abrasive hole saws as it will just melt the plastic, it would be best to have the material backed onto a sheet of sacrificial material like MDF or Plywood and use a regular hole saw to cut through it, for straight cuts you can use a table saw with a finer toothed blade. 
 
If you have access to a laser cutter that would of course yield the best result and also give you polished edges straight out of the machine. 

Looks to be a limited product.
https://www.ikea.com/ms/en_JP/ikea-collections/spanst/index.html
https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/spaenst-led-light-stick-50403184/
 
For ambient lighting if you want it to be soft and cast around the room, it is more involved but installing crown molding a little below the height of the ceiling and adding in LED's behind it to cast light along the ceiling works well. 

I guess I'll wait for after I've made my upgrade, the cpu has always been running pretty cool with my noctua NH-U12P SE2 and the airflow is still pretty good. I just feel like it's a bad time to upgrade a lot of online shop I use are out of stock or the price seems higher than before.

Finally nearing the end in terms of parts acquisition.
Big bag o' fittings:

 
Spent a bit of time prepping, painting and then matt lacquering some of the 3D printed parts. GPU supports and pump bracket shown below, generally happy with the finish on these (not perfect around the screw holes but very flat elsewhere). I/O plate needs a little more work but already a world away from the previous run.


 
Pump should arrive tomorrow along with leak testing bits. Awaiting completion and delivery of distro plate. Only things I need now are fluid and tubing.
 
Having given it some thought I'm going to reuse the existing Corsair fans for now until the Noctua NF-A12x25 Chromax are released. Don't see the sense in splashing ~£120 on fans now only to want to upgrade them in the future.

+1 to the EKWB plugs those are pretty low profile.
 
Just note that if you plan to have silver in your loop you cannot have any nickel plating on fittings or blocks as they are bordlerline dis-similar metals in a loop environment. I personally recommend to use a premixed fluid ideally clear if you want longevity as they have all the needed additives. 

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See if you have a makerspace nearby, most will be willing to provide you some input and help when creating CAD models tailored for 3D printing. 

That's a bold face lie!
 
That trash can is far too clean and pristine to hold a picture of me and still look like that

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When you screw the two pieces together it squishes the rubber bit making it clamp down on the pipe, it's a super common way of copper pipe fittings in most countries.
This has just been adapted to plastic, it's supposed to slide up past the end, you don't want it at the very end of the tube otherwise it won't make a proper seal.
 
Not sure what the problem is?
see this video, Instead of a brass ring you have a rubber one:
 
 

They have "neon" like led strips that have a built in diffuser, other than that you would need a diffusser track as suggested to install the LEDs into. 
https://www.amazon.ca/Pearlight-Silicone-Waterproof-Decoration-Signboard/dp/B07R3SK73N/?th=1