W-L

Tubing going in. Fuck me is it tough to get compression fittings over this stuff.
 

 

For aluminum extrusions they are very modular and easy to work with due to the vast number of brackets and adjustability. In terms of tools the basics would be a miter box with a metal hand saw, some files for deburring and the needed mounting hardware to attach extrusions together. If you want to get a bit more complex having a drill and tap for cutting threads in the ends or portions of the extrusions can sometimes be helpful. 

For aluminum extrusions they are very modular and easy to work with due to the vast number of brackets and adjustability. In terms of tools the basics would be a miter box with a metal hand saw, some files for deburring and the needed mounting hardware to attach extrusions together. If you want to get a bit more complex having a drill and tap for cutting threads in the ends or portions of the extrusions can sometimes be helpful. 

i had a monoblock that looked a bit like that sent a photo to EKWB asking if it was normal and they shipped me out a replacement very quickly.

That's E A S Y !!!!!!
 
https://www.ubereats.com/

And the aftermath of the tube installation.
 

Never heard of the plugs being an issue but if it is a concern you can always get replacements.

Places like Cold Zero make custom acrylic parts and has some options for extended PSU shrouds. 
https://www.coldzero.eu/search?controller=search&s=h500

After a short delay in China, (probably Barrow or Blyski scanning it to make their own copy ) I received an exciting package from Malaysia.
 

 
What could that be?
 

 

 

 
Pump trial fit...very snug,
 

 

 
That should be it now- all components here, ready, present and correct.
Now to build the thing.

Made a test piece for the side wall with vents to see how well the hole pattern would turn out, got better with them as i went along. 

Work continues on distro plate, now including an LED channel and some changes to screw layouts, drain port and pump recess.
 

 

 
Example of some of the previous work done by the same machinist:
 

so I sent my drawings to a steel company. waiting for their offer.
I got a nice date with Solidworks Visualize today, after a little bet of tweeking the settings (and finding out my ryzen is fucking slow and SW refuses to use my Vega) I did some renders...
 

Make sure that PSU is sitting flat down on the pads of the bottom of the case to ensure you don't have a bunch of potential weight just hanging from the rear bolts. If forst comes to worst you can try setting up a small block of foam under it to see if that alleviates the vibration. 

Most manufacture's are able to provide replacement hardware, try contacting them directly to see what they can arrange. 
 
-Moved to liquid and exotic cooling- 

It took me a total of 3 days but some of that was waiting on amazon. It costed me about $25 but would have been less if there was a hardware store that had the screws and washers nearby. It's got some scuffs and scratches but I think I'm ready to call it done.

@frokes @startrek03 @W-L
so here is an update:
all drawings (finally) done. Will go out next week to find someone ....
bought a cheap case
took it apart
made rough 3D-models of the parts a want  to use and added them to my model (at least in the model everything fits fine)
used this case as donor: https://www.notebooksbilliger.de/pc+hardware/gehaeuse+pc+hardware/inter+tech+b+30+pc+gehuse+414453
to be honest: for the money its great. No sharp edges, its somewhat stable and has structural integrity. Definitely could be worse. 
 
Jan
 
(fun fact: it took me 12 min to take it completely apart. a decend 3mm drill does wonders for rivets)

Yes, not just me, pretty much everybody in the thread.
 
The flow rate will be lower in a parallel flow, but not low enough for there to be a meaningful difference given the high flow rate of modern pumps. The flow rate in a single parallel block will theoretically be 1/n the serial rate (where n is the number of equal components in parallel), however in serial, you pay additional price in the form of additional restriction so the overall flowrate is lower in serial. And if you are in low flow rates where this mattered, you will be paying the price that the 1st GPU would be heating up the water prior to going to the 2nd and so (in contrast to the conventional wisdom of "order not mattering") it would, and you'd rather split the flow so you don't get weird clock discrepancies due to different core temps.
 

Yes I would do so if they had it on there previously, little odd why they didn't use a thermal pad over those inductors but paste will also work. 

What distilled water are you using can you post a photo? 
 
Most tubing will go opaque after use but usually after around 6-12 months, I've used Mayhem's Ultra clear without much issue.

You are also using soft tubing and if it is new tubing it could be plasticizer. It does strange things and is why I hate replacing tubing because I can guarantee I will need to do a flush in a few months to get it all out of the system.

DiD sOmEWoNe SaY tHrEaD lOcK?

The quad tandem will give you an extra 240V breaker so essentially two breakers in the same footprint, however if it's too much in general for the total incoming capacity of that panel then the second option with the garage getting 240V may be best. Also not bad if you have 240V tools like a welder.   

I would recommend aluminum it will be easier to bend and cut if you want to make something custom. Ideally if you can get tools a vice with a metal brake attachment work really well.

So you are running two gpus. When in SLI they have to share the same OC and such. So the way power boost works is part of it is based on temp. So the temp of that last gpu will be hotter due to being down stream. It shouldn't be much hotter, but that is why. As for thr usage that could be many different things, but more than likely is just how SLI is utilizing the card.
 
It could also just be the block isn't making great contact too so heat isn't transferring as effectively. 

No that's not good you have a dead short somewhere hopefully just a component which can be removed. However see if they are willing to cover the board under warranty or help in the repair process. 
 
If you have a local electronics repair they should know how to at least remove the shorted components to have it still function just without RGB.
 
Also what RGB fan and motherboard is this?