W-L

Daisy chaining USB hubs isn't usually the best thing, as said it could also be a power delivery issue. If needed you can get a USB extension lead or try to directly connect to the side or rear of the monitor to see if that resolves the disconnection issue. 
 
 https://www.tripplite.com/2-port-usb-3.0-superspeed-desktop-extension-cable-male-2x-female-6ft~U324006DSK2

Try seeing if you can update the drivers for the USB 3.0 ports I have seen this before on some systems that use a third party chip and for the front USB where it will sometimes just auto disconnect and then reconnect the USB 3.0 ports. Eliminate the hub from the equation also when testing as less variables will help pint down the issue better. 

There are both good and bad ones, so it depends where you get them from, the ones linked seems alright as said there have been situations where ones have shorted. I personally recommended ones from liheat they are very well regarded due to the length of testing they go through but it comes at a cost, i believe they are the suppliers for Lian Li.
 
https://www.liheat.com.tw/en/product_cg127116.html

Believe Bosch was the first to implement this but it was more for tool tracking in industrial or commercial use and if they took it off the jobsite that it would deactivate.

Believe Bosch was the first to implement this but it was more for tool tracking in industrial or commercial use and if they took it off the jobsite that it would deactivate.

Believe Bosch was the first to implement this but it was more for tool tracking in industrial or commercial use and if they took it off the jobsite that it would deactivate.

Believe Bosch was the first to implement this but it was more for tool tracking in industrial or commercial use and if they took it off the jobsite that it would deactivate.

Units like those are line active units so it will detect when the power quality degrades and kick in the AVR/filter if needed or completely disconnect from the grid if it's really bad until it improves. Those units have a live graph or digital display which you can turn on and see the incoming line voltage and frequency which should give you a quick idea if the wall power coming in was bad. 
 
As for wattage you only need what your system draws so it you have a 600W PSU but the maximum the system consumes is 400W a UPS just larger than that will be enough, more overhead is always better however especially for longer run time if power cuts out. 

Hmm while not cheap it looks like Corsair has a complete front panel sleeved extension kit that has really tight weave. 
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cases/Premium-Sleeved-Front-Panel-Extension-Kit-30cm/p/CC-8900244
 
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Braided-Sleeved-Extension/dp/B07L692H65

Hmm while not cheap it looks like Corsair has a complete front panel sleeved extension kit that has really tight weave. 
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cases/Premium-Sleeved-Front-Panel-Extension-Kit-30cm/p/CC-8900244
 
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Braided-Sleeved-Extension/dp/B07L692H65

Cable Mod makes them in extensions, Bitfenix back in the day used to also have a variety but I don't think they make smaller cable extensions anymore only the main power cables. 
https://cablemod.com/product-category/cable-extensions/internal-usb/

-Multiple Topics Merged- 

Oh you won't have any issue there it's very small just make sure there isn't a burr that sticks up.

That's a product made by Lian li so they are just a reseller or distributor for them. As for V1 I've recommended them around here for custom work before not heard anything negative back from any around here that I've seen at least. 

I've used contact thermocouples for a lot of stuff and those would really be best next best option would be an IR camera or module like the ones you get for phones as a more budget friendly option. For IR guns that aren't overly expensive I use a UNI-T 300S and it's been very reliable for the most part long as it's able to get a reading off a non-metallic surface. A good way to cheat is to apply some painters tape to the surface. 

Try 3M scotlite, I've got their silver stuff and that works super nice, the black version is also amazing since it looks like gloss black metallic wrap until you hit it with a bright light or flash. Looks super awesome in photos and for vehicle decals. 
 

Image Above Provided by: LittleCarrot

Welcome to the Brand New Update for the Modding FAQ Post
This has been quite the work giving the FAQ a new look from the old text based version and I hope everyone here enjoys it and find it useful. The old version however is not gone, for anyone who still wants to view it with the same up to date info I will leave a link to it HERE.
 
This thread will go over some of the most common mods, contain information on sleeving, painting components, templates, modding, and more with detailed instructions for all the mods.
 

 
If there is anything you want to see added, or contribute let me know by either posting below or messaging me I'm always open to new ideas.
 
 
General Wiring
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Modding
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Painting
 

 

 

 

 

 

You can get units like theses which are essentially the same kinda clamp, they come in a variety of sizes to suit one's needs. 
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wire-management/zip-ties-clamps-anchors/flat-snap-close-nylon-cable-clamp-adhesive-back-7-8cm-black-mdy-fsccc-78.html
 
 

Hey if it lasts for more than a season of riding and all you need to do is cut up some more inner tube to refresh it then it may be more affordable than getting a premade wheel or more specialized material in that case. Just needs a bit of seasonal maintenance is all 🙂 

They do make fairly finely perforated sheets but the finer it is the more it hurts airflow, something like a woven mesh of a heavier gauge wire may do the trick. Another option as said is to just use fine mesh window screen. 
 
https://www.themeshcompany.com/products/-20-Mesh---0.92mm-Aperture---0.355mm-Wire-Diameter---SS321-Grade----Woven-Wire-Mesh--80.html#SID=60

Well, reporting mission success!
 
There weren't any resistors inline with the original LEDs, so new warm white LEDs were soldered at the end of the existing leads, LEDs tested, and then everything was buttoned up (but not before fixing some USB 2.0 headers that were bugging me while I was at it; internal Bluetooth now!). Set the motherboard RGB to match the warm white and away I went.

Can you print one layer and take a photo of how well it lays down from there we can determine if the first layer adhesion is good to start. Also before printing be sure to always clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol. 
 

That's going to be difficult to remove it it snapped and currently tighten down a lot. If it's large enough you can try using a tiny pin punch to try and knock it to see if it's loose and unfasten it that way but your best bet maybe to get a left hand drill bit in hopes that it will catch as you slowly drill it out. 
 
 
-Duplicate thread Merged- 

This a is a old school PSU, no RPM line. It has a voltage ramp, or so I believe that is what its called.
 
I used to be a arcade machine repair man. The caps an a PC PSU is nothing compared to what I used to work with.
Try discharging a CRT's flyback. Those suckers ark, you only need to be near them in the wrong way to get a good zap.

I'd probe the leads to get the output voltage to verify the starting voltage is high enough before tapping into the connections for power since it's a speed controlled fan. You shouldn't need RPM line back unless the unit requires it for monitoring purposes. 
 
Just be cautious with the capacitors regardless at mains voltage it can be deadly. Unplug the unit and leave it for a good couple of hours incase before servicing and absolutely do not short the contacts of the capacitors. It's not the first situation where where's it's happened and also a situation like this happened on the forums where someone recounted their experience after opening a PSU unknowingly and making contact with a fully charged capacitor and ending waking up in hospital.