W-L

Full cover blocks don't exist for them cause there isn't really a gain from watercooling lower end hardware, you can use universal blocks but just be sure to include heatsinking for VRM and DRAM chips. 

The main issue I would see with this is latency or inference problems since they specifically design traces on the board to be a certain lengths and even create extra turns if needed to make some longer. 

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Not to mention that depends on the cooling of your switch and the quality of the transceiver, it wont necessarily do the full 100m over copper.
 
Its just generally better to use fibre if you can as it uses far less power, the transceivers will run a lot cooler and it takes up a lot less space thus less intrusive should you need to mount it to a baseboard rather than in-wall.  I wish I could use more of it myself as replacing just one CAT6 cable with OM3 freed up so much space in the ducting.

For long distances you will want to buy the SFP transceiver and separate optical cables that you can carefully run across the home. In general however if you are not going past 10gbe CAT6 or CAT6A would suffice
 
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-1000BASE-SX-Transceiver-Supermicro/dp/B07TYSVP3R/ref=sr_1_3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTKHG6T/ref=emc_b_5_t
https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Patch-Multimode-Duplex-30-Meter/dp/B01CX3UWSG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Y0O673S2IJGA
 
https://www.amazon.com/10G-SFP-AOC-Cable-SFP-10G-AOC-20M/dp/B08TTLTZR3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1H3NIKQ0I4XGK

For long distances you will want to buy the SFP transceiver and separate optical cables that you can carefully run across the home. In general however if you are not going past 10gbe CAT6 or CAT6A would suffice
 
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-1000BASE-SX-Transceiver-Supermicro/dp/B07TYSVP3R/ref=sr_1_3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTKHG6T/ref=emc_b_5_t
https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Patch-Multimode-Duplex-30-Meter/dp/B01CX3UWSG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Y0O673S2IJGA
 
https://www.amazon.com/10G-SFP-AOC-Cable-SFP-10G-AOC-20M/dp/B08TTLTZR3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1H3NIKQ0I4XGK

+1 for backing it with a piece of wood to drill through also for the cut edge use something like a paint marker to touch up the silver metal to have it match the current paint.
 
this is assuming you are using a bi metal hole saw if you are drilled smaller openings then use a stepped drill bit this tend to give you better results.

You should be using the top slot, they are all full sized x16 PCI-E slots but only the top is wired up for full X16 speed, the second and third full size PCI-E slots are both wired for X8 speeds. In general though you won't saturate a PCI-E 3.0 X16 slot with a GPU.

If you have the ability to run ethernet to each room I would configure an AP in the most used areas of the home. One AP to route around the corner to cover the living room area and the space to the left and two more let's say in room 1 and then room 3 if the signal in room 2 is still extremely poor then added an addition unit would be a good option. 
 
If you want to look at Ubiquiti they make the In wall HD or the wifi 6 in wall version for early access which are both an access point and a 4 port switch for wired devices. 
https://store.ui.com/products/unifi-in-wall-hd

It uses your electrical wiring in the home, so the base unit takes the Ethernet from your router/modem and sends the signal down the power wires. The unit on the other end receives the signal and has both the output for ethernet jacks and wifi hotspot. However the quality of the signal on the output side depends heavily on the wiring in your home. If you have an older house with old wiring it will degrade the signal on the receiver. It's hard to determine what the quality will be for sure but main thing is you want solid copper wiring and ensure you have an update fuse box that uses interrupters or breakers which should help. This is however an extremely general guideline. 

It uses your electrical wiring in the home, so the base unit takes the Ethernet from your router/modem and sends the signal down the power wires. The unit on the other end receives the signal and has both the output for ethernet jacks and wifi hotspot. However the quality of the signal on the output side depends heavily on the wiring in your home. If you have an older house with old wiring it will degrade the signal on the receiver. It's hard to determine what the quality will be for sure but main thing is you want solid copper wiring and ensure you have an update fuse box that uses interrupters or breakers which should help. This is however an extremely general guideline. 

Image Above Provided by: LittleCarrot

Welcome to the Brand New Update for the Modding FAQ Post
This has been quite the work giving the FAQ a new look from the old text based version and I hope everyone here enjoys it and find it useful. The old version however is not gone, for anyone who still wants to view it with the same up to date info I will leave a link to it HERE.
 
This thread will go over some of the most common mods, contain information on sleeving, painting components, templates, modding, and more with detailed instructions for all the mods.
 

 
If there is anything you want to see added, or contribute let me know by either posting below or messaging me I'm always open to new ideas.
 
 
General Wiring
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Modding
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Painting
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hmm try going down to the bare minimum required to boot, unplug all unnecessary devices and try just to get the system to post with the CPU, RAM, and GPU. Once you have that establish start with putting back your boot drive, peripherals etc. 
 
Only thing I can suspect is during the repaste that uneven pressure was applied to the CPU which might need to be reseated in it's socket and cooler put back again.

Daisy chaining USB hubs isn't usually the best thing, as said it could also be a power delivery issue. If needed you can get a USB extension lead or try to directly connect to the side or rear of the monitor to see if that resolves the disconnection issue. 
 
 https://www.tripplite.com/2-port-usb-3.0-superspeed-desktop-extension-cable-male-2x-female-6ft~U324006DSK2

The LFG section has additional guidelines from the Community Standards that members must follow when posting. These guidelines are subject to change without notice.
 
General
1 - This section is intended for the formation of groups between community members and not for the promotion/advertising or recruitment of dedicated gaming groups, clans, or services. 
2 - Links to websites, servers, or social media channels such as youtube are not allowed.
3 - You may include lines of communication to discord, steam, etc.
 
 
Failure to follow this may lead to the removal of your thread without notice.

Yeah that sounds like a bearing rattle to me at least. See what coolermaster says maybe if you can show them and see if they will issue you an RMA.

Welcome to the Forums!
 
Sorry to hear about fire, but If the data is irreplaceable on the drives it would be best practice to send them off to an expert to recover the data.
 
For the SSD if you do choose to go the route of trying to pull data yourself I would clean the PCB off using 99% isopropyl alcohol and test on an external M.2 adapter personally to ensure it doesn't damage a motherboard if something is wrong with it. The HDD is a bit more tough since there is fire soot and smoke particles can force their way into the drive, there is a "filter" per say but it's not designed for something like soot or so power it on even if you clean the external PCB is still a risk unless it's opened and check in a clean environment.
 
All this is also barring that it did not suffer from excessive heat damage. 

Thanks guys!! I managed to bend the pins bk with a tweezer and the mb works just fine. You guys are lifesaver!!!

As said that's perfectly acceptable given your extension cord is not as thin as a shoe string, any normal general purpose (18AWG) extension would work.

Try to see if the seller is willing to do a refund but bent pins are somewhat fixable long as they are not broken off. I've had success fixing a friends board before but it takes a fair bit of time and patience to get them back into place. Good thing to do is to carefully bend them back place the CPU into the socket and then take it out to check the positioning and if any need further adjustment. 

If they are slightly raised you can take some fine grit sandpaper > 400grit and give it a light polish/sand to take off the high spots. It will help but not make a huge difference as the paste will take up slight irregularities like this. 

Image Above Provided by: LittleCarrot

Welcome to the Brand New Update for the Modding FAQ Post
This has been quite the work giving the FAQ a new look from the old text based version and I hope everyone here enjoys it and find it useful. The old version however is not gone, for anyone who still wants to view it with the same up to date info I will leave a link to it HERE.
 
This thread will go over some of the most common mods, contain information on sleeving, painting components, templates, modding, and more with detailed instructions for all the mods.
 

 
If there is anything you want to see added, or contribute let me know by either posting below or messaging me I'm always open to new ideas.
 
 
General Wiring
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Modding
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Painting
 

 

 

 

 

 

Demciflex makes custom sized filter if you want to replace them with something else, they also have stadnard ones for cases but not sure for the 5000D.

As said it just increases thermal mass so it takes longer to reach equilibrium, larger or multiple reservoirs are mainly for aesthetics.