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As said those products are designed to prevent reverberation and echo in a room itself and less for dampening sound from traveling into another area. If it is to be done properly the room will need to be taken back to the wood studs to add in sound dampening insulation and ideally a sound isolating drywall that has a polymer layer. For a budget your best thing would be to hang a heavy weight curtain about 6 inches from the ajoining wall and to seal the door or to change it to an insulated exterior door which has a proper weather seal all around it.

There will always be a small amount due to the channeling since it's essentially a trap for water as you can see in the photo. It's a non consequential amount of water and won't be an issue when adding in coolant. if it's a concentrate just mix the concentrate with what I would guess at most being 30mL less of distilled.

Depends on the vacuum if you get a proper electronics vacuum cleaner it will not be an issue as they are ESD grounded and have built in static dissipation when vacuuming over electronics. For most people using a compressed air canister or those air dusters and an ESD safe brush will suffice I've used specialized units like this which are used for electronics and fine dust particles that we cannot just blow off as it will be a health hazard and contaminate the work area. https://www.amazon.ca/Atrix-VACOMEGAS-Omega-Supreme-Vacuum/dp/B004BBMO0S/

If it's a flat head screw it just means the head portion is larger you don't need to worry about removing the entire flat head just the diameter of the threaded portion once you drill down a small amount. The screws they use are usually not of a super hard metal like other kinds of fasteners which will be very difficult to drill. As suggested if you cannot get a vice in place your best option would be a pair of vice grips.

I assume the head of the screw has been stripped badly, try holding the bottom stand off in a vice to undo with a screwdriver if possible. If not possible it is best to use a left hand drill bit but you can try very carefully using a small bit I'd say like 2-3 mm just enough for it to take off the head of the fastener. You don't want to drill through the whole bolt just the head so it can get popped off from the machine threads below. I would do this as a last resort however if all else fails.

You're best to clamp those standoffs in a vice and try to undo the screws from the back of the PCB. If those screw heads have been stripped then it will be a lot harder. It is possible to drill out the head of the screw to have it release the standoff but you will need to then obtain new mounting hardware and standoffs.

It will help with balancing the airflow since you have somewhat of a deficit currently being there is only 2 intake and 3 exhaust, not to mention the front of the R6 is very restrictive due to the solid front panel. The air has to make it in via the gills or side of the front panel, having say an extra fan the rear or a bottom intake will also help a bit for the GPU. It won't be a huge difference but in any case I'd see it as a step in the right direction in terms of airflow and if you want positive pressure with filtered intakes to prevent dust.

I would say then it's not bad, there are some cases I've seen which will have internal and component temps jump 10C with the front plate or top on them due to restriction. Overall I don't think you have too much to worry about then since at 59C on the CPU and 78C on the GPU all of those are very respectable temps. The one thing that may help a little is added an extra intake fan since currently you have 3 exhaust and 2 intake, making it negative pressure. Having positive pressure with good filtering on the intakes will also prevent dust infiltration.

It's not the worst airflow out there, but as a test when you take off the top mesh does that drastically lower the temps? If so you may find that mounting the fans in a pull config so it draws air through the rad and more readily forces it out the mesh may help slightly.

Cold zero does custom acrylic work, if you provide them a drawing they can make it for you. If you want an easy method of covering up the rear you can use a mirror type film or solid colored vinyl to go over the rear glass. https://www.coldzero.eu/

Usually I use lint free cloth or a microfiber for glass and <50% isopropyl water solution. If it's oily or grimy using a little soap and water helps also. Some of those minor marks are probably micro scratches in the plastic which are inventible during cleaning. If you want to get rid of some of them using something like Novus plastic polish works well.

Please refrain from Necroing old threads as mentioned. It is best to create a new one and use this as a reference point. Tempered glass can sometimes spontaneously shatter due to the large amount of stress internally in the glass after tempering. Be quiet support should be able to help you with obtaining a replacement panel. -Thread Locked-

For the 4 pin fan I'm not completely certain if that is a requirement since this unit uses their aquabus system. Normally for a PWM pump that connection would tie back to the motherboard for pump speed control and monitoring however in this case it looks like in the manual it is an output for either fan control or a flow meter. I'd try to control Aquacomputer directly to see if they are give you a wiring diagram or details of the connectors, odd they didn't include a pictogram of the pump unit with it's accompanying connections. However if you have the aquabus system with a fan hub from them I would use that to do fan control over just the single out header on the pump.

Ah ok, I completely missed that! That looks to be just discoloration of the nickel plating, I've had some occurrence similar to that which is relatively normal, similar with a yellowing of the nickel. In both instances the surfaces were not damaged and were scrubbed clean quite easily. It could also be debris in the loop from manufacturing that has settled out since that area would have fairly turbulent flow. It is possible though if you have a lot of copper content in your loop, that the copper ions will slowly migrate and deposit themselves onto the surface of the nickel plating. I have an old block that exhibited that issue when I was running pastel fluid way past it's prime just as a test.

In your case I don't believe it's oxidization but probably some build up of some sort in the rads that was remaining or dust particles from the newer components and made it's way out and got caught in the fins of the block.

You'd be surprised with used rads I ran pastel back in the day and thought I cleaned them super well. I did a vingear solution and then a baking soaking wash/rinse then set them up to the tap and run water through them for about 15 mins in each direction including a few distilled water flushes at the end About a month in the loop was clouding in the new clear fluid due to a few missed particles here and there making it's way into the fluid. Only real way I've found that really scrubs the rads clean is to use something like the blitz kit which is essentially a phosphoric acid wash that really etches the surfaces and removes oxidization and any build up. Since this is minor I wouldn't worry much.

I believe looking at the specs those are using the high power DDC from Laing which are considered reliable, main thing is having the cooling heatsink for the power electronics which it does have. I'd open it up and inspect the impeller to see if something has cause it to make contact with the housing, but if it's not drawing any power at all when giving it 12V it sounds like something is up with the unit itself.

One very important point to note your fans you have selected the NF-S12A ULN are only 3 pin fans which will not have speed control from the fan hub since that is a 4 pin PWM hub. You will require the PWM 4 pin version for grouped speed control. Personally if you have any rads, filters or any kinds of restrictions in the way of the fans I would recommend the NF-F12 as they are more suited for those applications. The only times I've really recommended airflow fans are in open air applications.

So for that unit to get basic functionality you will need the Sata Power, and 4 pin fan connector in the middle to get an RPM reading and feedback. The two white 4 pin jst type connectors are for RGB IN and RGB OUT to carry the signal along, the unit will not light up unless the input signal for RGB is hooked up. Also for the USB hub that unit looks alright usually I've recommended the NZXT unit which has been good for most applicaitons. https://www.amazon.de/ac-iusbh-m1-intern-Anschlüsse-externe-Anschlüsse-Schwarz/dp/B01IFGFTJ2/

I have some doubts about that especially fi you didn't get noticeably higher GPU temps. I've had block much much worst than that to where all the surfaces have a thin film or pastel particles clinging to the surfaces with no effect on temps. Because you mentioned they are older rads my guess might be that there was some remaining residue or materials that were not 100% cleaned out from previously that made it's way out and started to clog the fine fin array of the GPU block. I'd refill and keep a close eye on it if you notice clogging again like this it may be best during the next big maintenance to try and get something like Mayhems blitz to clean the rads and loop before refilling.

Not all acrylic is affected the same due to slight difference in formulation but in general acrylic is not to be exposed to isopropyl especially at high concentrations or any length of time due to it reacting. PETG is not a very chemically resistant plastic and absolutely cannot be exposed to isopropyl. http://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf

That's a bit of an odd size usually quad rads are what you will normally find. If you want extremely large rads Aquacomputer and Watercool may cater to what you are looking for with a 6 x 140mm radiator and some 3x3 120mm and 140mm rads. https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2726 https://shop.watercool.de/Radiators

They exist in regular versions but most of them are advertised as hi-fi or audio power cables. Most will construct their own and sleeve the wire and install custom plugs on the ends. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000164163717.html

Be quiet is pretty good if you want an invertible layout case that is designed for silence. I believe it is their dark base lineup that has that feature.

Those are mediocre, since the perforated mesh has pretty large holes. You would be better with a very fine mesh filter like the ones from SIlverstone or Demciflex. Using dust filter fabric as you mentioned will work and is used in production applications but isn't exactly the most ideal since they do add a fair bit of flow restriction. Your best thing is to try to move the PC off the ground if it's capturing a lot of dust/debris.