W-L
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Posts posted by W-L
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1 hour ago, alyen said:
I have disassembled the water-cooling block from a RTX 3090FE, but I have not found a way to separate plate from the clear acrylic or get access to clean the micro fins. Does anyone know how to do this?
When I searching over the net, I only found installation videos and one video of the acrylic separated from the plate, but no instructions on how to disassemble it. I also asked and looked around the Corsair Community forums without any success. Only finding someone wishing there was more documentation it, and removing 2 screws under thermal pads that do not appear to contact the cold plate or electronic components. Sorry for the bad phone pics.
It's just bolted into the clear acrylic or the waterblock, may be a bit stuck on there with the o-ring seal so you might need to use a bit for force to bump the two pieces apart.
here is a sped up version of the teardown:
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6 minutes ago, Levent said:
The texture is actually a layer of coating.
4 minutes ago, Takumidesh said:looking at the patterns, I think the cleaning may be a bigger aspect than I thought.
Some of the spots seems to be right in previous print spots where I put my grubby little fingies on the glass.
That's actually etched but they painted the glass, I've not seen the black paint come off before with alcohol but if it's happened then definitely go with something like glass cleaner, or a <50% isopropyl so it's less agressive.
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Just now, Levent said:
Actually IPA removes the surface coating Creality uses on their beds, so I would NOT recommend them to use IPA to clean the bed.
Their glass is just textured they added a coating now on their new units?
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19 minutes ago, Takumidesh said:
-SNIP-
Normally this is the height as others have said, of course make sure to clean the glass off really well with isopropyl but that propagation across the print happens when a little filament oozes around the nozzle and it progressively gets worst.
It doesn't need much try adjusting the offset by 0.05mm or so that should help.
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6 minutes ago, pkiller162 said:
Thanks for the reply
So are you saying that I need 2 cables coming out of the laptop, one from the USB-C out into the KVM (via a USB-HDMI converter) and one from the HDMI out to the KVM (via a normal HDMI cable)? If so, what about the USB peripherals? Would this have to be a 3rd cable?
You will need to verify on your specific laptop and what the USB C port is capable of but you could get a USB C to hub converter with extra IO connectors and have power for the laptop come in through that single USB C.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087QZVQJX/ref=emc_b_5_i
It will still need a second HDMI to the laptop as long as your laptop can support both display output through the HDMI out and the USB C thunderbolt simultaneously. Most hubs I'm seeing that are able to do USB C out with dual HDMI are limited to 30Hz or some display only units to 60Hz.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Mini-Dock-USB/dp/B08KJJG7SZ/
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16 minutes ago, pkiller162 said:
-SNIP-
For HMDMI this one is 4K at 60Hz, dual monitor KVM's are usually pretty pricey. I've used some lower end 1080p versions before and they are still pushing about $75-100.
For 4K 144Hz looks like most are DP:
Shouldn't be an issue with USB C to HDMI for laptop and a HDMI out long as the laptop itself supports two display outputs at once.
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26 minutes ago, Elijah Kamski said:
-SNIP-
For long distances you will want to buy the SFP transceiver and separate optical cables that you can carefully run across the home. In general however if you are not going past 10gbe CAT6 or CAT6A would suffice
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-1000BASE-SX-Transceiver-Supermicro/dp/B07TYSVP3R/ref=sr_1_3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTKHG6T/ref=emc_b_5_t
https://www.amazon.com/10G-SFP-AOC-Cable-SFP-10G-AOC-20M/dp/B08TTLTZR3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1H3NIKQ0I4XGK
- Needfuldoer and Mayday793
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On 5/4/2022 at 1:38 PM, Digitalaether said:
Hey guys,
I have a Phantech Shift X and having a hard time keeping thw temps down because of the restrictive air flow of the front and back panels. I want to get the panels cut for ventilation and I live in Victoria BC, anyone know a place that can do that? I would consider shipping the panels if I need too.
It's fully water cooled but my water temps reach 55°C with my room ambient temp is around d 20°C.
As suggested water jet or laser cutting will yield a cleaner result. I believe there are aftermarket options that you can buy cut by a third party.
https://twitter.com/modmymods/status/1140701567798173696?s=21&t=TSGUGNZpCPfEV7sJ2a6qtA
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On 5/8/2022 at 6:49 PM, EvilKitty said:
When I drill through the side panel with paint on it i know you are supposed to tape the paint to keep it from chipping, but does it matter if i go through the unpainted inside or the painted side first if so what side should i go through first
+1 for backing it with a piece of wood to drill through also for the cut edge use something like a paint marker to touch up the silver metal to have it match the current paint.
this is assuming you are using a bi metal hole saw if you are drilled smaller openings then use a stepped drill bit this tend to give you better results.
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On 4/10/2022 at 3:20 PM, Filingo said:
I want to help a friend with fixing some networking issues he has.
I drew the house, very badly but it gives an idea of what it looks like:
-PIC-
Currently the WIFI is in the network box in sort of the middle of the house, but the walls are thick, so the only place that gets good WIFI is the living room.
Every room has a conduit from the network box so it's possible to run a cable from the router to each room.
But wifi is also needed in the living room and also in room number 1 (which has basically no signal right now)
What's a good solution for wifi + ethernet in each room? And if possible not too messy? Because at first I was thinking about wiring the house in cat6, then from room 1 and living room, connect a switch which will both be plugged into devices that need cable and to a wifi mesh device,
but it's quite messy (2 switches, 2 wifi mesh boxes, and also perhaps there's a lower cost solution)
*It would be ideal to have wifi in other rooms and the other side of the house as well (where I didn't mark the rooms with numbers)
Thanks!
If you have the ability to run ethernet to each room I would configure an AP in the most used areas of the home. One AP to route around the corner to cover the living room area and the space to the left and two more let's say in room 1 and then room 3 if the signal in room 2 is still extremely poor then added an addition unit would be a good option.
If you want to look at Ubiquiti they make the In wall HD or the wifi 6 in wall version for early access which are both an access point and a 4 port switch for wired devices.
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22 minutes ago, Gamer4714 said:
I cannot run a cable I need to use the wireless signal repeater thingamajing
So I would be able to just go ahead plug this in and it would provide me Ethernet connection and wifi with the speed provided by the isp? Also I don't think this is available in India. Edit : NVM got it but not the same kit and would I need to connect my routers Ethernet by extending it or something. I wont be able to run the Ethernet jack over that distance not even with long wires.
It uses your electrical wiring in the home, so the base unit takes the Ethernet from your router/modem and sends the signal down the power wires. The unit on the other end receives the signal and has both the output for ethernet jacks and wifi hotspot. However the quality of the signal on the output side depends heavily on the wiring in your home. If you have an older house with old wiring it will degrade the signal on the receiver. It's hard to determine what the quality will be for sure but main thing is you want solid copper wiring and ensure you have an update fuse box that uses interrupters or breakers which should help. This is however an extremely general guideline.
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47 minutes ago, Gamer4714 said:
So I moved into a new house and we got the internet connection and it's at around 60mbps(it's what we get here normally) Thing is the router is downstairs but my pc is gonna be upstairs and it doesn't have a wifi card and the speed upstairs is terrible goes down to 5mbps and 47 ping. So I want an access point with the same speed of my router and also it has to have an Ethernet port for my pc. My budget is around 3000 rupees (40 dollars).
I have to get it running fast because we're moving in here very soon and I have classes and my dad is work from home.
Ay help would be appreciated
You're gonna be pretty limited with that budget, but if you want both an AP and wired ethernet connection a powerline kit may be a good option. They makes ones that will have a secondary access point including a couple of extra ethernet jacks for direct connection.
Here is an example:
https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/powerline/tl-wpa4530-kit/
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10 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:
Are you sure? Ubiquiti make quite a big song and dance about needing shielded cable for their outdoor equipment because there is so much more background RF outdoors that can get into the cable.
I'd personally not want to use UTP, especially given the length. Also a benefit if there is a lightening strike nearby it can induce current in the cable (it happened with my phone line and blow up the modem) so having a grounded shielded cable seems a good idea. Or go the more expensive but safer route and use fibre, although I'm not familiar with the price of outdoor rated fibre and you'd need bigger holes to get the pre-terminated ends through.The shielding is good for noise or RF environments mainly industrial environements. For exterior if it's being mounted on an aerial for sure you will want shielded cable for lighting protection or grounding but as this is being put on a structure itself I would be less worried as if lighting struck the structure itself there would be much larger issues than with just the ethernet devices being fried.
16 hours ago, Nuh_ said:It'd love to test this. Is it as straight forward at getting the equipment and hoping it works? because it's an old house and I don't trust how it's wired.
or is there something I can do beforehand to ensure it works?
There isn't really an easy way to test but depends on how old the home is and if the wiring has been upgraded. If the electrical panel has been upgraded at some point with breakers or fault interrupts over glass fuses I would bet a good bit has been redone in the home.
If cost is an issue and wiring a hassle I would first try a powerline solution before spending a lot more time and work having to get cable installed and mounted on the side of the building.
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On 4/7/2022 at 1:29 PM, G_K said:
Ready to do my first network project and I have crimped Ethernet cables from scratch before but I have just purchased a 100m cable of cat7 outdoor cable and the colours are missing or are they? Are the white wires supposed to have like white green, white brown etc because they just show all white as you can see in the photo attached, please can someone comment the layout for this Ethernet cable as I am struggling to figure it out
specs of cable
external cat7 copper shielded SF/FTP
7FO-010747
It's not common but recently I got a roll of older CAT 6 cable and found this, the white cables will be grouped with the solid color so they will be twisted together. For example Blue and the white cable is therefore blue/white. When crimping or terminating I just use a sharpie with the correct color and mark the white cable to prevent any possible confusion.
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13 minutes ago, Nuh_ said:
-SNIP-
I would be more concerned about routing the cable outside as you will want to look for outdoor rated cable and to look for copper based cable as a lot of outdoor rated sutff is CCA (copper clad aluminum).
If the plan is to install/mounted permanently on the exterior then solid copper cable CAT5e outdoor rated is good it doesn't need to be shielded so regular UTP should be fine.
As an alternative option you may also want to look into powerline ethernet which uses the electrical wires in the home to pass a signal.
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On 4/3/2022 at 1:25 PM, Unkindness said:
As title suggests, I'm thinking of daily driving a test bench because I can't find a case I particularly like and the idea of a "showcase" build appeals to me. I'm building a room to my house and I have no pets, carpet or smoking in my home but it will be to the far end of a kitchen (aprox 10 sq meters away).
Is there any longevity issues with components if the are open long term like this or will it have the same issues as a high airflow case be the only draw back?
Cheers!
I wouldn't say there is any problem with it, good for temps even, I've seen some open bench setups where people have velcro a section of plexi or clear plastic overtop of it just to prevent stuff from falling down onto their setup, or pets from getting too close. Only downside is having to dust it off often, I ran a makeshift bench for about 6 months before when I was waiting for parts and just had everything setup on a board I mounted stuff to.
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On 3/17/2022 at 6:11 PM, Qualla said:
If my understanding is correct, the suffisticated ones are made from brass. It is damping the vibrations of the pump.
But I'm not sure which one is good and also in stock in the US.
As said Alphacool makes one if you can find stock. There are other manufacture's like Barrow that make one out of solid brass also.
https://www.aquatuning.us/alphacool-eisdecke-messing
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On 3/6/2022 at 5:28 AM, NoyB said:
Hey,
I'm looking for a liquid cooling for my processor.
I have i5-10600KF and I'm currently using the Corsair H60 to cool it but the CPU is still getting to high temps (80-90 on heavy games) which causing me (even after I disabled it in the motherboard) to thermal throttling.
I understood that the H60 isn't a good cooler and I'm looking for a new one or for any suggestions that can help me fix the issue.
My budget is 150-200$.
Other specs:
Case: DA601 - 3 fans in front (to pull air inside the case), 1 fan in back (to push out from the case) and 1 fan (of the H60)
Motherboard: Gigabyte H410M H
GPU: RTX 3070
Thanks,
Noy.
Welcome to the Forums,
I would recommend something like a 240mm at the bare minimum or ideally a 280mm if it can fit in the case.
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2 hours ago, Nick Ger said:
I tried booting it again but it gave me a bluescreen: SYSTEM THREAD EXEPTION NOT HANDLED
Hmm try going down to the bare minimum required to boot, unplug all unnecessary devices and try just to get the system to post with the CPU, RAM, and GPU. Once you have that establish start with putting back your boot drive, peripherals etc.
Only thing I can suspect is during the repaste that uneven pressure was applied to the CPU which might need to be reseated in it's socket and cooler put back again.
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6 minutes ago, Nick Ger said:
Just reapplied the thermal paste of my Ryzen 3 2200G. Struggled with putting the cooler on. Realised only later the backplate literally fell off. Everything seems to work inside the computer but won't boot.
Try reseating the RAM since you were in the area sometimes bumping it can cause problems. I've had that occur before. Are you getting a BIOS screen or any error codes from the motherboard?
- Moved to Troubleshooting -
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19 minutes ago, Devryd said:
Hi
I own a logitech g440 mousepad and its warped in the middle. The middle is about 8mm higher than the outer edges. Is there a possibility to fix this or do I just have to buy a new mousepad?
It's not ideal but you can try warming it using a hair dryer and curling it the other way slightly to prevent the edges from curling up. Sounds like the rubber base or material was pulling in on the bottom from being stretched during manufacturing or some process in between.
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21 minutes ago, Unorthofox said:
My apartment building burned down and I only bothered salvaging the storage from my water damaged computer. I'm unsure how high the temperatures in my room reached so it's hard to say whether or not these were damaged by water alone or high heat as well. It was around a few days before I was allowed into the apartment. I opened my pc and pulled out my hard drive as well as my m.2 ssd and they didnt feel wet (especially the m.2 that was pretty well guarded within the motherboard)
After wiping them down they dont have any visible damage on them but they still smell like the smoke and silt that had been sitting on it for days. The computer was off at the time of the fire but still plugged in. How would I go about testing these without ruining them further, at the same time evading paying professional tech guys to inspect them.
Welcome to the Forums!
Sorry to hear about fire, but If the data is irreplaceable on the drives it would be best practice to send them off to an expert to recover the data.
For the SSD if you do choose to go the route of trying to pull data yourself I would clean the PCB off using 99% isopropyl alcohol and test on an external M.2 adapter personally to ensure it doesn't damage a motherboard if something is wrong with it. The HDD is a bit more tough since there is fire soot and smoke particles can force their way into the drive, there is a "filter" per say but it's not designed for something like soot or so power it on even if you clean the external PCB is still a risk unless it's opened and check in a clean environment.
All this is also barring that it did not suffer from excessive heat damage.
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10 minutes ago, cbkummer said:
So, I actually read another forum where someone fixed the lack of cooling on an XPS PCH by simply taking a 6 w/mk thermal pad and putting it over the PCH, then making sure the other end touched the heatpipes. I have a few of those lying around, so I tried that this morning, and after about an hour of Doom Eternal, my PCH had peaked at 71C, well below the 80C it used to hit with ten minutes of playing that game. I think I may have this resolved without needing to worry about buying any heat pipes or soldering or accidentally shorting something out.
Hmm while thermal pads are ok at transferring heat they aren't exactly the best for wicking it away like a heatpipe but hey if it works it works!
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21 hours ago, cbkummer said:
I put a small copper shim on the die, and it did help, a bit. It takes about 10 minutes longer to throttle than it used to. There is very, very little clearance above the PCH, like maybe .5mm. I do have a M.2 drive installed, so that's not really an option. Should I modify the proposed route for the heat pipe and move it over to the fan instead of the heatsink?
If it is possible to bring it over towards the heatpipe over to the fan heatsink that would be best. But even adding a larger copper shim and coupling it to the chassis or bottom cover even if it is plastic will still help some in terms of heat dissipation. It won't be good as say a proper heatsink or if the casing is aluminum but do some good.
unifi distance question
in Networking
Posted
Personally I'd go for the AC unit as it's a bit more directional compared to the Unifi 6 Mesh units which has a more uniform spread, at that distance you are more likely to be using 2.4Ghz.
Not to mention the U6 mesh units run really warm if in direct sunlight, had one recently go out on me but this in unrelated.
https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005212927-UniFi-Network-AP-Antenna-Radiation-Patterns