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Might just be some contaminates from loop assembly and manufacturing that made it out of places like the radiator or leeched in overtime epically if you have soft tubing. Usually you see a little build up like that using soft tubing after a while. If it's UV blue fluid then most likely it's not corrosion but just general gunk that absorbed that blue coloring. the nickel on there still looks nice and clean so I doubt it's any corrosion epically if it comes off with a little soap and water.

What fluid are you running? That looks like copper oxidize wither from the rads or other components depositing it onto the nickel /fin area or if your are running colored fluid it could be plasticizer or gunk just building up.

If you ran pastel you will need to teardown the loop to open up the blocks to clean and scrub off any particles or residue. I've found that pastel does leave a haze or yellowing build up on surfaces.

As mentioned some coolants like Mayhems X1 and pastel series are glycerol based making it biodegrable and relatively safe to just toss down the drain depending where you are after letting it sit out exposed to UV. For the pastels I usually let it settle out and drain off the fluid to toss the particles in the waste. If you have a glycol based fluid you can drop it at any automotive shop as they will take motor oil or anti-freeze fluids.

It really varies as some manufactures will have custom formed o-rings but most times if they can get standard sizes or cut to length and glued sections it's much cheaper to manufacture. A good way around this is to use o-ring grease to help hold it into place and prevent it from moving during installation.

Welcome to the Forums! The best really these days is a premix, it will have everything you need inside. For something that will be drained and refilled a lot with low maintenance a clear liquid like Mayhems X1 or EKWB cryofuel is good. If it's only being drained for transport you can reused the fluid but if it's getting close to the 6 month or 12 month mark I would just swap it out. Stuff like silver and PT nuke are good on their own given that is no nickel content in the loop, for PT nuke there is the PT clear which is ok for nickel.

You would be best to install heavy weight curtains about 6 inch from the wall and ensure they go form floor to ceiling, while it won't be perfect it will help. Best solution would be to build a secondary wall and put in sound proof insulation but seeing this is a rental it is not the most practical.

Yes slight seepage between the chambers is normal due to no sealing ring. There are block makers out there that specifically add o rings channels between sections such as this to prevent that from occurring and market it as a selling point.

As said by thrasher keeping the pump connected to the motherboard CPU header is a good idea to ensure that there is no problem with cooling or the potential of the pump dying which would give an RPM warning. Same for the PSU and motherboard as they are essentially synced together already.

For the motherboard power switch yes you will want a momentary switch, as for the other if you want to have a toggle like switch similar to a race car arming all the system before starting that can be done. Just note that those will have to be latching push switches or a regular on/off toggle, for things like the pump and the lights. Only thing is the PSU the only way to toggle that would be to do so using the switch on the back of the unit.

I personally have one of the Heatkiller D5 combo units, they're pretty nice there is also a channel in the rear of one of the supports for you to install some thin LED's if you want to backlight the res. Also this unit unlike the others has a glass tube section. https://thermalbench.com/2016/12/13/watercool-heatkiller-tube-200-d5-reservoir/2/

It very much depends on what you want done, something simple like a PSU shroud or custom radiator mounts etc are easy but if you want a complete custom case as others have suggested places like Proto case would be your best bet or a local metal shop. Just note that stuff like that for a one off will be expensive.

If you are comfortable working with acrylic you can heat bend a sheet to create one. There are also custom cover made palaces like cold zero specialize in that kind of work. https://www.coldzero.eu/

I usually recommend the cable mod LED's they're quite good and have a remote control function for independent control if your motherboard does not have built in RGB headers. There are others out there also with similar kits available such as Deep cool and Coolermaster depending on your local availability. https://cablemod.com/product/cablemod-widebeam-magnetic-rgb-led-strip-60cm/

For vinyl that depends on what you are doing to it, if you are referring to vinyl wrap like film then that can get cut on a laser but may be best to have done on a vinyl plotter since it may distort from the heat of the laser. If you want to for example powder coat or paint a surface with and then burn through that coating to get nice crisp text or logos that can be done relatively easily. Not certain about etching vinyl wrap I think it most likely will melt or burn through since the film is relatively thin.

As mentioned you may be able to do this all on the motherboard since some have a Temp in option for a fluid sensor, you will need to check for that. You can then set the pump to the lowest possible setting. Most boards don't allow for the CPU fan to run at zero RPM so it will have to have some kind of RPM line feedback.

Laser marking fabric is doable this is commonly down now in industry to add patterns or distress jeans. For fabric what you're thinking of is heat embossing that applies a layer of plastic onto of the fabric. Those are good but tend to crack or degrade from age. Some higher quality products will have inkjet dye printing. are

That i'm not completely certain on but that "color" laser engraver should be able to also etch regular surfaces like aluminium/anodizing and paint without issue also.

Yes what's essentially happening is you are engraving a recess in a material for paint to adhere well to and then afterwards just removing that paint from certain areas to obtain a logo or lettering for example. This is useful for materials that cannot be colored at all like on plastic which would just melt or give a burned or grayed text look normally.

It essentially had to do with how the laser marks or interacts with the material to create that thin film oxide, different power, speed, and a host of other settings determine these parameters. Depending on the manufacture some may have general guidelines provided if you tell them the marking application while others will not have any information and it will be up to the operator to determine it's settings. These sample cards are a good example of what can be potentially achieved on the appropriate materials. https://www.permanentmarking.com/how-to-utilize-color-laser-marking/ https://www.spilasers.com/application-marking/fiber-laser-colour-marking/

What you mostly will have occur with standard household products is just 2 tone engraving, not color engraving as the material the product is made of needs to be made of stainless steel which is the most commonly used for thin film oxide engraving to achieve those colors. It's not the laser that makes the color but the interaction with light and the base material to achieve it. What can be done however is to laser etch into the surface of material to then have coloring added to fill in the lasered void to achieve a colored log. Things like aluminum like on a phone will engrave well since it will essentially etch through any anodization and into the base metal but only yield you a gray aluminum not color.

Unfortunately due to the way shielding has to be maintained and the connectors at the end it's not as feasible to have it in a round cable format. There are manufacture's that are narrower which may help in your application if space is of concern. https://www.highflow.nl/hardware/videokaarten/li-heat-pci-e-gen-3.0-ribbon-flexible-riser-cable-v2-black.html

It is reliable but you need very good process control and tuning, as the laser itself will also degrade with age and require periodic tuning and calibration on top of everything that is been discussed this far. Laser engraving on products is very relevant since it's superior to a physical application of something on top of a material's surface or even chemical etching due to the speed and reliability not to mention variability being able to change a design file and continue lasering where other processes will have much more work involved. What are you considering doing with this machine?

This is a legitimate product, how those colors are achieved is essentially though thin film interference using the base material itself. Essentially you are forming a colored oxide layer, this is mainly used on stainless and titanium parts as those yield the best color spectrum. As with all lasering based operations all of this is done via trial and error there is no set method or option to just select a color as you have about a few dozen parameters you can configure in the laser and this is not including the material itself which can greatly affect the coloring. Even buying the same grade of metal will yield differences as there is a manufacturing tolerance, the best applications of theses machines if you want colored lasering is for artistic applications. Just know it is not possible top yield deep hues or saturation in color as most thin film oxides are almost of a pastel like appearance It's not possible to color laser plastic only burn it and it must be specialized material.

For white paint you are best to look for automotive paints as they usually have the best brightness and vibrancy compared to regular hardware store stuff. Brining a small piece of the case that's white to compare can also help, as some places can even color match to something that will be close to what they have on shelf or custom mix something.