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It sounds like you are introducing noise into the line and due to the large load it's dropped the line voltage down. The clicking on the UPS is either the AVR (auto voltage regulator) compensating for the line voltage drop of the unit itself disconnecting itself from the grid due to the poor quality incoming power. In theory if the UPS is doing it's job you should be shielded from brownouts or noisy power. Depending on the power of your AC unit most will take up close to a full 15 Amp circuit on it's own so that should have a dedicated line just for itself.

They make LED diffusers which soften the bright spots of light from the LED to make it more uniform. It's pretty readily available these days online from amazon or other retailers.

Getting a rail 3D printed might work but since it's a long thin part flex or warpage can be an issue It looks to be a pretty simple rail that probably could even be made from a strip of aluminum with 3D printed features bolted to it which may also work well.

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The pump be cautious as they sometimes are not real D5 variants as they have certain design differences In terms of blocks, fittings and other components I've built systems with their products and they are excellent in terms of quality from what I've experienced.

That's a product made by Lian li so they are just a reseller or distributor for them. As for V1 I've recommended them around here for custom work before not heard anything negative back from any around here that I've seen at least.

I've used contact thermocouples for a lot of stuff and those would really be best next best option would be an IR camera or module like the ones you get for phones as a more budget friendly option. For IR guns that aren't overly expensive I use a UNI-T 300S and it's been very reliable for the most part long as it's able to get a reading off a non-metallic surface. A good way to cheat is to apply some painters tape to the surface.

Try 3M scotlite, I've got their silver stuff and that works super nice, the black version is also amazing since it looks like gloss black metallic wrap until you hit it with a bright light or flash. Looks super awesome in photos and for vehicle decals.

It really depends on the suppliers and what polymer they use as some will last while others tend to degrade. As an alternative this method using foam sheets and cutting slits in them work really well:

As suggested try contacting the manufacture for replacement. If you want you can even use regular window glass given the right thickness but just note that if you break windw glass you will have large razer sharp pieces instead of the little pieces when you shatter tempered glass. You can custom order a piece of tempered but that usually will run the price up past $100 due to the need to cut the pane to size then have it go through the tempering process. You cannot cut a sheet of tempered glass.

From what I see that is correct and ports used and shouldn't be an issue. As long as you use the correct inlet and outlet usually the use of 1 of 2 options provided is optional

Vertical mount is the Lian li O11 is pretty common place and would resolve the issue, not to mention you see the watercooling side of the block which most people want to show off. EKWB does have a rotary version like this but i'm not sure if you will gain enough space. https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releasing-new-revolutionary-rotary-terminal/

No not all thermal pastes are the same but usually you only see at most maybe 5C difference unless it's really crap generic paste. I usually recommend Arctic MX4 paste and use it on a lot of my stuff, other excellent options are Noctua NT-H2 and Thermal grizzly Kryonaut paste.

Hey if it lasts for more than a season of riding and all you need to do is cut up some more inner tube to refresh it then it may be more affordable than getting a premade wheel or more specialized material in that case. Just needs a bit of seasonal maintenance is all

That photo helps, try using something like SBR rubber it's relatively good for wear resistance and when applied with a flexible contact cement adhesive should hold up decently well. For an application like that you will want the drive roller to be spring loaded to allow it some play when the tire flexes and changes shape under load and at speed. Ideally if you can get something like a molded rubber roller that has a thick wall that would work well. You should be able to source stuff like this at an plastics/rubber supplier. https://www.mcmaster.com/rollers/abrasion-resistant-rollers/ https://www.mcmaster.com/rollers/abrasion-resistant-drive-rollers/ Abrasion Resistant Rubber: https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber/abrasion-resistant-polyurethane-rubber-sheets-bars-and-strips/ https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber/economical-abrasion-resistant-sbr-rubber-sheets-and-strips/

The Dremel unit isn't that bad for an education series as they do provide some extras being an education model and service support. If you want a more affordable unit that's still very reliable the Prusa series aren't bad, however they are not enclosed if that is a requirement. They make a smaller mini and also the larger MK3s model. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/ https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/

You will want to use the same thickness of pads since it can apply extra pressure onto the PCB or cause it to bend if they were too thick. Best thing to do is to use a pair of calipers to measure the thickness of the pads, Also check as there are different thickness of pads usually used on the VRM and power delivery compared to the Vram chips.

Can you print one layer and take a photo of how well it lays down from there we can determine if the first layer adhesion is good to start. Also before printing be sure to always clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol.

Usually they are already current limited by the output pins so there isn't a need for adding inline resistors. Only time that is really needed is if you use red or <3.0V forward voltage LED's which may burn out fast if you don't add a resistor. Going from blue to warm white isn't a problem I'd check the cables for the red one to see if there are any resistors inline.

That's going to be difficult to remove it it snapped and currently tighten down a lot. If it's large enough you can try using a tiny pin punch to try and knock it to see if it's loose and unfasten it that way but your best bet maybe to get a left hand drill bit in hopes that it will catch as you slowly drill it out. -Duplicate thread Merged-

You are best to contact Liang or Xylem manufacture directly to see if they have spare parts or rebuild kits which is pretty common since the D5 is used in many smaller industrial and commercial applications.

You can get units like theses which are essentially the same kinda clamp, they come in a variety of sizes to suit one's needs. https://www.performance-pcs.com/wire-management/zip-ties-clamps-anchors/flat-snap-close-nylon-cable-clamp-adhesive-back-7-8cm-black-mdy-fsccc-78.html

I'd probe the leads to get the output voltage to verify the starting voltage is high enough before tapping into the connections for power since it's a speed controlled fan. You shouldn't need RPM line back unless the unit requires it for monitoring purposes. Just be cautious with the capacitors regardless at mains voltage it can be deadly. Unplug the unit and leave it for a good couple of hours incase before servicing and absolutely do not short the contacts of the capacitors. It's not the first situation where where's it's happened and also a situation like this happened on the forums where someone recounted their experience after opening a PSU unknowingly and making contact with a fully charged capacitor and ending waking up in hospital.

Main thing is you want a pressure optimized fan in those kinds of applications. You can always probe the voltage of the minimum output of the current fan to ensure it has enough voltage to ensure the new fan has enough to start. Of course this always comes with the caveat of opening the PSU at your own risk as the capacitors in the unit can hold enough of a charge to be deadly and to ensure that you check the temps of the unit with a thermocouple of other temperature measurement device to ensure it's within safe operating temps.

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