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Fredrikmikael

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  • Posts

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About Fredrikmikael

  • Birthday Oct 07, 1996

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    fredrikmikael
  • Origin
    Roflcopter1231
  • Battle.net
    fredrik_joha@yahoo.no

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    127.0.0.1
  • Interests
    Programming, Gaming, Computer Hardware.
  • Occupation
    Computer technician / Tech support
  • Member title
    The Any Key

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-5820K @4.5GHz 1.230V
  • Motherboard
    MSI X99S SLI PLUS
  • RAM
    HyperX Fury 2666MHz 16GB
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce RTX 2070 ARMOR
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2, Samsung 840EVO 256GB, OCZ Agility 3 128GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000 / White sleeved cable kit
  • Display(s)
    LG27GL850-B
  • Cooling
    Deepcool Captain 240 EX White
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum
  • Mouse
    Razer DeathAdder Chroma
  • Sound
    Beyerdynamic DT770(80ohm)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional

Recent Profile Visitors

1,868 profile views
  1. Pretty much. I guess you could describe the picture as "blurry" as a result of the low pixel count, but generally blurriness is more a result of high pixel response times which is noticeable on moving objects on the screen.
  2. 1080p at 32" is a very low PPI(69) which makes the individual pixels distinguishable if you are close to it, so for a TV you are sitting further away from the pixels would not be distinguishable. but for a monitor you're sitting close to it would not look that sharp even with aggressive anti aliasing. Personally, I would not want anything less than 90+ PPI for a monitor. PPI Calculator: https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/technology/ppi-calculator.php 1080p at 24" would be the same PPI as 1440p at 32":
  3. I guess it would mostly depend on the fan motor design, but the fan stopping and starting once every minute would generally be worse than the fun running at a low RPM during idle and then increase as the temps rises, so just spend a few minutes tweaking the fan curve. If your CPU cooler/heatsink supports it, I would definately recommend replacing the fan if it sounds like it's dying, and you cannot go wrong with Noctua. The orientation of the fan should definately not matter at all.
  4. I would recommend disconnecting everything you can disconnect, e.g all SSDs/HDDs, Graphics card(using the DP/HDMI on the MB instead to use the CPU integrated graphics), and also reseat the power cables to both the CPU and MB(make sure they are seated properly on the PSU end as well). Also remove the RAM and re-seat only a single stick in DIMM1(A2 for your MB): If it still doesn't work you could try reseating the CMOS battery on your MB as a hail mary. You should also double check that you mounted the CPU in the correct orientation according to the "arrow": Should everything fail you might wanna return/RMA the MB and/or CPU.
  5. Thank you all for your valuable inputs and perspectives which definately has given some clarity. I think I will end up following my gut and go for one of the two kits I was looking at, likely F4-3200C14D-32GTZR aware that it definately is not the best value, but as I am not that budget constrained and will likely stay on Alder Lake for a long while,(I did manage 7 years on 5820k) it might end up justifying staying on Alder Lake for an additional generation before upgrading... I will definately attempt to take advantage of the "b die" and see what I will be able to squeeze out of them with overclocking upon arrival. Thanks again all, especially @freeagent@Hairless Monkey Boy!
  6. Hi! I am finally upgrading from my wrinkly 5820k to a 12600k which of course means a new MB and RAM, though I am having some difficulties coming to a conclusion on my own for which kit I should opt for. As I haven't paid to much attention to the market for a couple generations I hadn't even heard about gear1/gear2 until last week when I was starting the research for new my parts. As I will be going for the mature DDR4 platform it seems like running in gear 1 generally provides a not insignificant perfomance fps boost and 1% lows, the timestamped video below is a reference on this. Finally to my question(s), and what i'm struggling with. Is there a correct answer on which combinations of frequency and CL timings will without any doubt be able to run at gear 1? Currently , I have been looking at two different kits which I would assume are able to run at gear 1 with their very tight timings:(1) F4-3600C14D-32GVK & (2) F4-3200C14D-32GTZR. Is there any performance improvement with 3600mhz-Cl16 be over 3200mhz-CL14 for games, if any? Is there something else I should be focusing or, or not focusing on, such as this "samsung b die" which i have been reading about being good for overclocking, or will there be insignificant gains to be found with overclocking? New components below. CPU: Intel i5-12600k MB: Gigabyte Z690 GAMING X DDR4 RAM: ??? TBD Any and all advice, comments, and questions are appreciated regardless if it is related to the subject. Thanks!
  7. Some games store the save file in your documents folder, or if it was on steam i think steam can save the progression to the cloud (not 100% sure).
  8. Ah yes, i remember i begged my mom to get me a PC back in 2005 so that i could play counter strike 1.6 and world of warcraft with my friends. After finally convincing her, i got my older brother to pick out the parts and the only parts of the computer that i still remember is the CPU and GPU. CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3200+ GPU: GeForce 7800 GT The computer was a BEAST at the time. But little did my mom know that i would turn into a degenerate that still sits inside all day and play world of warcaft to this day.
  9. Alright i have never personally encountered this issue personally, so i recommend you make sure all the power connectors are properly connected to the motherboard and graphics card, and even trying re-seating your RAM. After making sure it most likely is software-related issue i would recommend this article going through different steps that may fix your issue: https://windowsreport.com/fix-black-screen-without-cursor/ However, the fastest and BEST way to resolve it, and make sure there are no other underlying software issues, is to do a clean install of windows 10. You can create your own installation media with windows media creation tool available for download here: https://www.microsoft.com/nb-no/software-download/windows10 Just make sure that you take a backup of any personal files if you decide to go this route.
  10. If you are running the Ryzen 3 2200G you might be constricted by the amount of PCIe lanes. This processor has 12 PCIe lanes. 8 of those lanes will be used by your graphics card, so you have 4 remaining lanes. I think the standard m.2 slot is x2 uses 2 PCIe lanes and the ultra m.2 slot is x4 so it requires 4 PCIe lanes. I am unsure of why your intel 545s wouldn't run in the ultra slot, might be some bios settings that needs tweaking, a faulty(old) bios revision, or some form of compatability issue. I have had a previous issues with an m.2 SSD not being recognized, but a BIOS update fixed the issue. If you were to get a 970 EVO running at x4 alongside the Intel SSD running at x2 you will only have 6 lanes remaining, but it should be fine as your graphics card will switch to running at x4 and will doubtedly have any affect on your framerate. Just make sure that you are running the newest BIOS version and it should work fine, but to be sure i would recommend purchasing it from a retailer with a good return policy.
  11. That can vary between different PSU brands and models. If you are looking for a silent or near silent PSU i would look into PSUs that are purposely designed for quiet operation. I was in the same boat as you a few years ago and found out the corsair RM-series PSUs are extremely quiet and the fan does not even spin until it reaches a certain power draw treshold, so the fan isnt spinning at all when idling or doing light tasks.
  12. is the screen completely black, or can you still see and move around the mouse cursor? Edit: (...) or open task manager(CTRL+ALT+DEL) ?
  13. Does this still occur when booting in safe mode? If you are still running the same motherboard i would highly suggest restoring the BIOS to defaults, or preferably going to the manufacturers website and snatching the latest BIOS revision (especially if you bought the motherboard near its release).
  14. Have you tried spitting on it, and jamming it in there? I have seen that work in some porn videos before. Welcome to the forum.
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