JarJarBanksy

Gold is not usually used in such a tasteful way. This is simply incredibly.

Update. Good old sod's law. That would be Murphy's law to you U.S residents. Basically I got tired of waiting for the SATA extenders from Hong Kong so yesterday I ordered six joiners from the U.K first class.
 
Got up bright and early and went to the door mat. Hilariously the extenders from Hong Kong had arrived but not the ones from the U.K. So that's £12 down the drain.. They said they were shipped so I think I'm going to send them back, especially as I paid extra to get them today.
 
Any way with the SATA extenders there was nothing stopping me putting the rig together to a bootable state. So I fitted the floor and the board.
 

 
Then mounted the H55 to the CPU.
 

 
Big ram..
 

 
Big issue.. Uh oh ! so I connected up the front headers and pressed the power button. Nothing. Tried again, nothing. Then I realised that I had basically used one of the power button wires as a ground for either the power LED or HDD led. This meant I had to spend two hours cutting them off and basically starting again. In the end I finally managed to trace the power button, then the LEDs, then resoldered all of the wires..
 
Then fitted the GPU
 

 
And then fitted the sound card, Revodrive and back plates and test fired.. And...
 

 
Kick ass. Only one slight issue at boot. Because the header wires were wrong I somehow corrupted the bios. However, Gigabyte are cool and basically it copied the bios over from the second slot and restored OK.
 
Phew.
 
Still plenty to do but I can now install an OS on it

Update:
PCI riser didn't work, but I no longer need it.
The build will be done soon, possibly today

the last Update for Gold Wings
 
 
 
 

 
The WINNER of EK-Vulture Mod Off is Gold wings
 
WOW! Thanks Everyone, really appreciate, Thanks to EK to choose me to be part in one of greatest group of modder,
 
just dont realize it for now  
 
but i know , im going to visite the EK Head Office in Slovenia
 
i just so happy

Alright guys,

I made the LED strips Ill be using to light up the inside of this build today, I figured that I could hook them up to the fan controller and control their brightness with it, and it worked! When I want the computer to be super quiet and dark, I turn the controller all the way down and the lights will turn off.
 
 
 

I had my paint LONG before Snef.......

Not yet, i'am still waiting for Liquid Ultra delivery

If you look closely, you can see it's a real & functional PC and not just a piece of art. 

Update
done, finished
but these are not final photos
the first 2 are to show the spectacular paint job by Hanoverfist
and others are for...................for noithing, why not haha





img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7669/17117873729_a0d542ab50_b.jpg

So fucking beautiful!

Thanks
now pics with wrap installed

Thanks Recon97
maybe your right maybe not, useless or not, I respect your opinion, its not the point
if you don't like modding, why you take time to go in a specific modding thread and answer
I don't like LN2 overclocking because I think its useless (not true, just an example), never I lost my time in a LN2 forum section

You know how the commercials for viagra tell you to seek medical attention if you experience a condition lasting longer than 4 hours?
 
I need medical attention, mine's lasted since I first saw this build lol

Well, this project turned out really well. That mahogany looks really nice. It's a simple aesthetic but it works well.

Tell him he can call a "special" girl to his home and pay her those 60£ and he'll have a better time than buying a pc for that money.

Here is the breakdown on costs-
 
I buy all the components through either Amazon or Newegg. I’m just a regular dude, so I buy at retail. Here is a brief run down of components
Motherboard = $150
CPU i3-4360 = $150
Memory = $70
SSD = $80
DVD/CD Drive = $35
CPU Cooler = $50
Wireless card = $30
Power Supply = $70
Case Fan = $20
LEDs + Controller = $25
USB Extensions + Wiring + Antennas =$35
Computer Parts Total = $715
+
Lego Bricks = $150
Grand Total = $865
For $50 more you can get a i5-4590s quad core CPU instead, and an i7-4790s is also available. . I only went with the i3-4360 option for those that didn't need much processing power.
 

I didn't know this was possible, to mod the pumps. You've just made my goal of a near silent computer with passive radiators closer to becoming a reality.

Yesterday i got some presents again, this time from DIYINHK.com.

I've ordered PWM Control 18W PCB for DDC pump ( http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/ddc-pump/41-laing-ddc-pump-18w-repair-pcb-wled-smd-soldered-mcp355.html )because there is no need for the pump to run on max rpm 0/24, and i wanted to use benefits of Sabertooth 4-pin headers and ASUS's Thermal radar control. 

So, here it is:

Upgrade PCB kit with blue LEDs.

 






System was flushed out and disassembled and pump is ready for her upgrade






New PCB is slightly smaller than original one




Old PCB dissasembled




Stator coil 




Old VS New PCB





We can clearly see how far technology went in just 10 years, that single IC and a few diodes on new PCB are replacing bunch of ICs and semiconductors from the old PCB.

Also new PCB is made out of 4 layers, vs 2 layer on old one. This is a huge benefit in form of power delivery to the coils itself and it is more prone to pcb burnout due copper current limitation old boards had ( copper lines on the board were too small and too resistant, aka they were limiting max current that can flow into the coils, and when users placed those pumps into restrictive loops, stator demanded more and more current to maintain desired RPMs )

In that upgrade kit i've also received 4 blue LEDs and 2 SMD resistors, but as i don't own transparent top + i hate blue LEDs inside of a computer ( they are too much redneck-ish   ) i won't use them.



R2 and R3 are locations for those 2 resistors, and D1,D2,D3 & D4 are places where you should solder LEDs if you wish. 




PCB contacts treated with solder for easier soldering of stator and power / control wires.






Stator pulled out from pump's casing, i did this for easier wire preparation.




Total of 6 coils with 2 wires, so i had to cut 6 exact wire pairs.




Preparation is the key of everything ( 85% preparation + 15% work = 100% of wanted result at the end ), so i stripped wire ends and treated them with tin.




Extension wires connected with the stator wires.







Those tiny white blobs on wire junctions are small amounts of nail polish, i used it to isolate bare connections from shorting together once the stator is placed inside of his casing and connected with PCB.

* Unfortunately i was really excited to test out the pump, so i forgot to take pictures of wires soldered on pcb, but i will take them later before final steps and project completition. *

Cables are sleeved and connected, white one is for RPM signal and PWM control that is connecting to the MBO 4-pin header, and inside the black one are 12+ and GND wires that are connected to the PSU.










So... you guys are probably asking yourself why on earth would someone do all this job if he had perfectly ok and 100% working device  ? 

Well, i like to do diy stuff and enhance electronic devices whenever i can, someone is playing soccer, someone is riding his bike, and to me this is my satisfaction and a way of relaxation

Ok ok, but if we put that aside, are there really benefits of this PCB ?

YES ! :)

Pump is now under Sabertooth's control



Normally pump is working @ 850RPM



I've conected 4-pin header that is controling pump's RPMs with CPU thermal sensor, so whenever CPUs temp rises a bit, pump will also speed up, to keep more of the water flowing thru cpu block.



Temp difference between 850 and 3900 RPM is cca 2 degrees of Celsius in idle and 4 in full load, BUT noise difference between min and max RPMs   that is hell of a improvement and it was worth of extra 20 GBP + 2 hours of "work" ( I say "work" because i do this for fun :3 )

Keep in mind that if you do submerge the heatsink in water it will be written off, anodized aluminum reacts strongly in water and quickly forms calcium deposit type formations that get stuck between the fins and are almost impossible to get out. Used a heatsink in WetRarity as a decoration.

im open to suggestions. its not a very big one. Made for a cheapo kiddie pool.

Glad you like it
The nylon pieces produced by SLS 3D printers is ridiculously strong. I could easily throw that case across the room into a wall and it wouldn't suffer any structural damage. It has the advantage of being both very tough, but also flexible when thin, which means it absorbs shock pretty well too.
To give you an idea, my old design, Vesper, sits on top of a 6'6 cabinet. So far my cat has pushed it off the top a total of 3 times. That's a six foot drop onto a hardwood floor with the actual NUC still inside. However, there's only been a small paint chip on one of the top corners, o structural damage at all. Before anybody mentions that perhaps I should have learned from the first drop, eh it's an odd situation really. Where I normally place it there's no chance of it being knocked off. However, occassionally the wireless keyboard won't sync or will run out of juice, so people bring the NUC closer to the edge so that the USB cable from a normal keyboard will reach. Unfortunately this then puts it at risk, once in a blue moon my cat will just decide to claim that spot as hers and thus give it a nudge.
So is there any risk of damage whilst sanding, nope, not even a little one. That's the beauty of SLS printing. Unfortunately it's bloody expensive so only worth it for small items like this. I definitely can't afford an actual printer (nor would have have the space for it either) so had to outsource the printing to a local company whom I know quite well.

guys I don't know what happen but I'm not able to post pics anymnore
"you are not allowed to use Image Extension on this community"
maybe the end of my build logs on this community
who is the guy I need to contact to fix that????

Nice rack ! 

9 times for moi