SSL

It sounds like it may be a hair touching the driver. Try removing the earpad and inspecting for hair or dust. You may be able to use a LIGHT application of air to blow it out, or use tweezers if you find any.
 
The other possibility is an electrical short somewhere in the headphone or cable.

It sounds like it may be a hair touching the driver. Try removing the earpad and inspecting for hair or dust. You may be able to use a LIGHT application of air to blow it out, or use tweezers if you find any.
 
The other possibility is an electrical short somewhere in the headphone or cable.

u drunk mate? How would you like it if enemies sounded like they were coming from the opposite direction that they actually were?

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

It's not like nwavguy has a whole blog post on the capabilities of the unit or anything.

I am unimpressed by Z reviews. He doesn't have a particularly good ear; the conclusions he reaches in his reviews are very pedestrian and lacking in the nuance or technical background of Innerfidelity or NoAudiophile.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

Simplifying, they preserve the original samples.
 
Our music is encoded using pulse-code modulation (PCM), which represents audio as samples of the signal amplitude. However, the vast majority of DACs these days actually perform their decoding using a pulse-density modulation (PDM) signal, using a technique called delta-sigma modulation. These kinds of DACs are commonly referred to simply as "delta-sigma" to differentiate from multibit.
 
The supposed problem is that delta-sigma DACs, in order to do their decoding, much discard the original PCM samples when they convert to PDM. Further, delta-sigma DACs are typically 1-5 bits, making up for the lost dynamic range with extremely high oversampling - e.g. in the MHz range.
 
Multibit solutions overcome these supposed drawbacks by decoding the audio signal with a true 16+ bit DAC, preserving the original PCM samples.
 
On top of this, Schiit has layered a proprietary closed-form, frequency- and time-domain optimized digital filter. Digital filters are necessary to perform upsampling of the audio signal, which moves aliasing distortion out of the audible band. Some typical methods for this are the minimum-phase and linear-phase filters. Some people claim that minimum phase filters are better because they avoid pre-ringing, while other prefer linear phase because they avoid phase-distortion. I'm not sure how Schiit's closed-form filter differs from linear-phase, other than it is supposed to preserve all of the original samples.
 
Whether or not any of this is audible is up to the listener, I guess. I haven't heard a multibit DAC, although I'd like to. More than one person has claimed not to have heard a difference between the Schiit Bifrost multibit and other DACs, like the ODAC, in blind AB/X testing.

You may need to do a minor, reversible modification to the headphone to get an adapter to work:
 
 

Simplifying, they preserve the original samples.
 
Our music is encoded using pulse-code modulation (PCM), which represents audio as samples of the signal amplitude. However, the vast majority of DACs these days actually perform their decoding using a pulse-density modulation (PDM) signal, using a technique called delta-sigma modulation. These kinds of DACs are commonly referred to simply as "delta-sigma" to differentiate from multibit.
 
The supposed problem is that delta-sigma DACs, in order to do their decoding, much discard the original PCM samples when they convert to PDM. Further, delta-sigma DACs are typically 1-5 bits, making up for the lost dynamic range with extremely high oversampling - e.g. in the MHz range.
 
Multibit solutions overcome these supposed drawbacks by decoding the audio signal with a true 16+ bit DAC, preserving the original PCM samples.
 
On top of this, Schiit has layered a proprietary closed-form, frequency- and time-domain optimized digital filter. Digital filters are necessary to perform upsampling of the audio signal, which moves aliasing distortion out of the audible band. Some typical methods for this are the minimum-phase and linear-phase filters. Some people claim that minimum phase filters are better because they avoid pre-ringing, while other prefer linear phase because they avoid phase-distortion. I'm not sure how Schiit's closed-form filter differs from linear-phase, other than it is supposed to preserve all of the original samples.
 
Whether or not any of this is audible is up to the listener, I guess. I haven't heard a multibit DAC, although I'd like to. More than one person has claimed not to have heard a difference between the Schiit Bifrost multibit and other DACs, like the ODAC, in blind AB/X testing.

Simplifying, they preserve the original samples.
 
Our music is encoded using pulse-code modulation (PCM), which represents audio as samples of the signal amplitude. However, the vast majority of DACs these days actually perform their decoding using a pulse-density modulation (PDM) signal, using a technique called delta-sigma modulation. These kinds of DACs are commonly referred to simply as "delta-sigma" to differentiate from multibit.
 
The supposed problem is that delta-sigma DACs, in order to do their decoding, much discard the original PCM samples when they convert to PDM. Further, delta-sigma DACs are typically 1-5 bits, making up for the lost dynamic range with extremely high oversampling - e.g. in the MHz range.
 
Multibit solutions overcome these supposed drawbacks by decoding the audio signal with a true 16+ bit DAC, preserving the original PCM samples.
 
On top of this, Schiit has layered a proprietary closed-form, frequency- and time-domain optimized digital filter. Digital filters are necessary to perform upsampling of the audio signal, which moves aliasing distortion out of the audible band. Some typical methods for this are the minimum-phase and linear-phase filters. Some people claim that minimum phase filters are better because they avoid pre-ringing, while other prefer linear phase because they avoid phase-distortion. I'm not sure how Schiit's closed-form filter differs from linear-phase, other than it is supposed to preserve all of the original samples.
 
Whether or not any of this is audible is up to the listener, I guess. I haven't heard a multibit DAC, although I'd like to. More than one person has claimed not to have heard a difference between the Schiit Bifrost multibit and other DACs, like the ODAC, in blind AB/X testing.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

You asked about saving $50. I have explained that you can save $100-150.
 
DACs sound more similar than different in general. Again, buy a DAC if you want, but don't expect one to sound better than the other. Get the one that has the inputs you need.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

They added a K after the name.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

20 November 2015 FINAL UPDATE:

Recieved my replacement HE-560 today. All is in working order. It has 2.5mm TRS connectors with metal shells. The box has been changed as well - instead of the wooden box, the HE-560 now ships with the same box as the HE-400i. This is an improvement in my opinion.
 
Service was very prompt with just a day of turnaround time and 2-day shipping. Customer service was courteous and helpful.
 
With these updates, I recommend the HE-560 at current prices. Still not quite worth the MSRP.
 
13 November 2015 UPDATE:
 
HiFiMan has updated both the HE-400i and HE-560 with the 2.5mm TRS connectors found on the HE-400S and HE-1000. The updated versions are not yet available from all distributors, so if you want one, contact HiFiMan customer service directly.
 
In addition, it appears that HiFiMan is offering to exchange/upgrade previously purchased HE-400i and HE-560 headphones for as little as $135 plus shipping and handling. Again, contact HiFiMan for confirmation and details.
 
Given this development, I'm giving the HE-560 my tentative recommendation. While 2.5mm TRS is not ideal, it resolves a lot of my concerns about the durability and usability of the min-coaxial connectors.
 

 
These are my brief impressions of the HiFiMan HE-560.

Accessories

The HE-560 comes in a wooden box with a sliding lid. There is ample foam padding inside, with dedicated cutouts for the headphone itself and the included detachable cable. A pretty sparse showing for the $900 MSRP.

It should be noted that the cable is an expensive silver-plated pure copper affair. More than likely it is a $150-200 value. This is a pain in the ass, because it means a significant portion of the cost of this headphone goes into a useless piece of metal.

Ergonomics
 
Extremely comfortable. Along with improved ergonomics over the previous HiFiMan generation of headphones, the HE-560 is very light, thanks to single-sided planar magnetic drivers. It's more comfortable than the Beyerdynamic DT880 and at least as comfortable as the Beyerdynamic T1 gen 2

The cushion surfaces are covered in fuzzy velour, and the cushions themselves are wide, gusseted and filled with soft foam. They spread the clamping force of the headphone evenly across a large surface. The pads are slightly beveled, which causes the ear cups to sit at an angle, firing back into the ears. In addition to helping sound imaging, this also allows for a more ergonomic fit for the ear. These headphones are cool and comfortable.

The headband is a hammock suspension affair. It is adequately padded and very wide, which spreads the weight of the headphone evenly. No issues with hotspots. The adjustment takes the form of two ratcheted blocks at either end of the suspension, which slot into place with a solid click. While there is no chance of them moving on their own, they are difficult to adjust while wearing the headphone.

The ear cups rotate and swivel, allowing them to align perfectly to the head. Accommodation for glasses is better than average, though not as good as the T1 gen 2.

The mini coaxial connectors are annoying, but not as difficult to put on as I expected - when they aren't defective. The right coaxial connection on my pair of the HE-560 was defective. Specifically, the threads were partially flattened, which made it impossible to attach the cable on that side. All my listening was done while holding the right connector on by hand. Fun!

Build
 
Cheap. HiFiMan is not known for sumptuous build quality. The wood veneer looks tacky and will probably crack over time, especially if the headphone is subjected to repeated changes in temperature and humidity. Aside from the harp and connectors, all hardware is plastic. Fit and finish is good, but underwhelming at the price point.

The grills are held loosely in place by flimsy plastic rings. While they don't seem to rattle with music playing, they definitely are nowhere near as solid as the grills on Beyerdynamic headphones. Again, mediocre at best for the price.

The cable is textile sleeved and terminated with an overly large Neutrik 6.35mm TRS plug. On the headphone side, the mini-coax connectors have inadequate strain relief and are unnecessarily long and bulky.

Sensitivity and Amplification
 
The HE-560 has an impedance of roughly 50 ohms and a sensitivity of 90dB/mW. This means that it is harder to drive than the majority of dynamic headphones, and only slightly easier to drive than other popular planars. Many reviews have noted that it actually requires more power to reach a similar listening volume compared to the HE-500. As such, most users will need a dedicated headphone amplifier for comfortable listening. Note that a 6.35mm jack or 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter will be required.

Sound
 
The overall tonality of the HE-560 is balanced and un-colored. There is no boosted bass to be found; this is clearly a headphone tuned for "audiophile" listeners who favor accuracy over artificial euphony.

The bass extends deep and has decent impact. Unsurprisingly, the HE-560 has significantly more bass body and weight than the DT880. Although the T1 gen 2 has a broadband boosted low end with more overall bass, the HE-560 has tighter and cleaner bass with more depth. Given that it has no mid-bass hump, the HE-560 has no hint of boom in the bass or mud in the low mid-range. On the flip side, some may find it a bit bass-light compared to other planars and the bassier dynamics.
Low strings sound excellent - no unnatural coloration in the mid-range, and very good tonal balance. Piano also sounds fine, although I still feel that a slight, broad cut is needed in this area on any headphone, for the best tonality.
 
Upper mid-range/presence is the most problematic. Upper strings sound a bit "surfacey" and lacking in bite, probably due to an excess around 5kHz and a cut around 1-3kHz (going by available frequency response graphs). This profile also makes vocals sound smooth, yet at times a little forward. This isn't a huge coloration issue. But, I wouldn't call it completely realistic or natural, either, as a number of other online reviewers have done. It is certainly better than the T1 gen 2, which made high strings sound wirey and etched by comparison.

The treble seems fine. After going through two Beyerdynamic headphones, anything is probably going to sound like an improvement. Extension is good with no nasty peaks or grain. High frequency noise that is over-emphasized on the DT880 and T1 gen 2 is audible but not brought to the fore with the HE-560.

Soundstage and imaging is good, better than average for a planar as I understand it. Center imaging is excellent, better than the DT880, combined with a deeper soundstage. Soundstage width is similar to the DT880; overall this is a more balanced presentation compared to the DT880, which suffers from more soundstage width than depth. The T1 gen 2 has a larger overall soundstage, and does a better job creating a "wall of sound" feeling with large orchestral music. The HE-560 does a similarly good job of creating a sense of space around instruments; what some might describe as a "holographic" soundstage.

Resolution is at least as good as the DT880 without any hint of treble pain. The T1 gen 2 created the impression of more resolution, but this could have been the product of excessive treble (11kHz spike in particular). On the fast-paced, percussive tracks of Hayao Miyazaki's Kiki's Delivery Service OST, the DT880 has sharper transients and faster decay. This can be a fatiguing presentation, however, which the HE-560 consistently avoids.

Dynamics are no problem for the HE-560. It can play loud without sounding forced or distorted, yet retains low-level detail even at moderate listening levels or quiet portions of a track.
 
Recommendation
 
The HE-560 has a MSRP of $900, though currently it's possible to snag it for $750 or so on Amazon. It also has the build quality of a $100 headphone, and the sound, while very good, is far from perfect. HiFiMan backs the product with a warranty of only one year. And to top it off, the headphone I received was basically unusable due to a defective cable connection. Not only does this indicate poor quality assurance, it suggests that HiFiMan doesn't even test each headphone before it goes out the door. This is not acceptable in a TOTL headphone. Yes, I'm aware that the HE-1000 exists, but in a world of sane headphone pricing, the HE-560 would be TOTL.

These are all things to consider before buying this headphone.

So who would want to buy this headphone? For me, I wanted a balanced sound with excellent bass quality and extension, without sacrificing too much soundstage. That's about what I got. This headphone would be easy to recommend for these preferences, were it not for serious issues with quality and value.
 
Thanks for reading.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

Looking at their forum thread, one would expect it to have tons of replies and concerns about this practice. Instead it's just one person talking to himself and then a official employee coming in and then marking its own answer as solved. No wonder they're able to do this type of stuff cause the majority of the users have no idea what that OP is talking about.
https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/Customer-Service/Are-you-aware-Comcast-is-injecting-400-lines-of-JavaScript-into/m-p/3013257#M142756

As pointed out, "audio science review" is dubiously named.
 
 
So in the future, I would suggest you try to verify the quality of measurements before recommending them, to prevent a situation like this from happening again.

I dunno what you all are doing, but I've not personally had any ram related problems with Chrome. Right now I have 9 tabs open and it is using less than 1GB.

How to Allocate a Budget
Under $200: Get the headphone you want. Under $1000: Get the headphone you want and an amp. $1000 and up: Get the headphone you want and split the difference between an amp and DAC. If on a tight budget: only buy a DAC if your onboard has issues; only buy a soundcard if you want the software features.
 
Make Any Headphone Into a Headset
 
Over-Ear Headphones
$50 or less
 
$50 - $100
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000
 
In-Ear Monitors (thanks to @KaminKevCrew)
$100 or less
 
$100 - $300
 
$300 - $500
 
$500 - $1000

IEM Cables
 
Headphone Amplifiers and DACs
 
 
Suggestions and Stuff Not on the List
This list is not exhaustive. It is intended as a good starting point for someone with limited knowledge of the personal audio space. I highly recommend doing research, including reading this thread for additional ideas. This also means that I may decline to add some headphones that I deem to be too expensive, too niche, or too unfriendly to the inexperienced. If you have additional suggestions, post them below. Unless your suggestion is monumentally off-base, we'll try to work it in. This list is not exhaustive and will change over time. It is not intended as an official endorsement of any product or company and does not reflect the views of official LTT staff.

This is just a commercial for yet another sound card.  Does it even work with Linux?