Pancake2k

Hello all! I’m searching for a wireless keyboard with a trackpad for my M1 MacBook Air and I’ve found a good selection of them. However, in the reviews of the keyboards I’ve researched some mention that on newer editions of Mac OS that these keyboards have stopped working. Can anyone confirm this? The keyboard I’ve narrowed in on is the Logitech K400 Plus wireless keyboard, if that helps at all

Update: IT WORKS! surprisingly It’s plugged in, connects and gives me power and data through the type C on the case. Surprisingly though, it seems to be charging somewhat fast? Faster than the USB 3 port does, might be my bias since it’s working but I’ll keep using it to see if it actually is faster. The only thing that sucks with it is that it sticks out a lot and ALMOST touches my GPU backplate. Not the most elegant thing, but it seems like it works ok. Hopefully it doesn’t melt in the case or something. 2nd update? MagSafe works through the case, which is even weirder because the type C port from my motherboard doesn’t work with MagSafe. Very weird since all it’s connected too is a USB 2 on the motherboard, but interesting. Would love to know why this is happening if anyone might know

Weird! I was surprised by it when I was building and had no idea what kind of connector it was. I know my case was advertised as “Gen 2 speeds” with the IO so maybe that’s part of why it has its own connector

Found something really bizarre, a USB 2 to Type E/Type C header LINK - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MYVJX4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_2WPCNP9BSMJ7KSWZBAT3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 probably gonna be a bad idea but I’m gonna buy it, worse case I can return it through Amazon. Not to concerned with speeds or charging, it mostly just bugs me one of my ports is unusable on my case lol. I’ll update this thread when it arrives if anyone is maybe curious about it

Hello! I recently finished a build inside an NZXT H210 and quickly realized there’s no header on my motherboard for the type C input from the case, there’s only one USB 3 header on the motherboard. My motherboard is a B550 Gigabyte Aorus Pro AX mini ITX, if that matters. My immediate solution was to get adapters, a Y splitter for the USB header on the motherboard and a USB 3 to USB 3.1 type C header. That way I can connect my cases usb 3 and have the type C usable. But the only Y splitter I found after searching on Amazon and Ebay was this one, which seems to not let you use both connections simultaneously and has pretty rough reviews. LINK -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CGL4K96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NDGRSQNGBGPSPK96X8DK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My other idea was to use the USB 2 header on my motherboard with a 3.0 adapter so I can have my front USB usable albeit at lower speeds while plugging the USB C adapter directly into the USB 3 header. Here’s a link to the USB 2 to 3 header adapter I found. LINK - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZV1566/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1YSHFSVF022ZDJQNN1J6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Heres a link to the USB 3 to Type C header as well LINK - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Q28S1P5V5TBWJ70X2EPE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Would these be good solutions, or is there a more elegant way to handle this? If I ended up using a USB 2 adapter and USB C adapter would there be any drawbacks apart from speeds? Just wanting some input if this is a good idea or not or if I’m doing something I really shouldn’t be doing. Thanks !

Worked! That's so weird, it seems like a really anti creative thing to have enabled automatically. I hope it doesn't block any of my games from opening like it says Thanks!

So I've been playing around with some recording and I'm trying to record gameplay from my PS4 (I've only done it with my switch thus far). I have an HD60s and I use it as a pass through for the console as I record on my PC. So, I switched the HDMI from my switch to the PS4 and the pass through worked fine. But then when I opened OBS and it picked up a video signal, it goes in and out. The PS4 pass through pops on the screen for a second then goes black, and keeps doing this indefinitely. I thought maybe the cable died or something, so I tried it without the capture card and it worked fine. Then I thought maybe the capture card wasn't working, but I switched back to the switch and recording works just fine. So, I'm a little confused. I thought maybe something weird was happening with OBS so I tried using Elgatos own capture software and it gave me the same result. I'm not really sure why it would be doing this, I inspected the PS4 for anything weird but I can't really find anything that would make the signal just die. Especially since the regular pass through works just fine Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

So it seems I solved the problem with OBS, I set a second microphone source with the Elgato line in input, and I plugged my speakers directly in to my motherboard instead of the audio out from my monitor. It seems to be working. However, the Game Capture software is still being difficult. I'll dive into the settings a bit more and see what I can do

Hello! So, i'm setting up a recording for my Switch and I ran in to a problem... I'm using an Elgato HD60s and an insignia USB microphone (Link to that here, since there's different variations). Currently i'm using Elgato's game capture software, Please note most of these recordings are seriously ear splitting, please adjust your volume before listening to any recordings. So I started to record some switch gameplay with the live commentary button on in the Elgato Game Capture software, and I get this. Recording 1 (WARNING, VERY VERY LOUD) Untitled.mp4 At first I thought this might have just been from some electrical interference with the USB mic since I have a lot of wires behind my PC where my Mic is. However, even after moving my mic to the front of my PC plugged in to the front USB port where the wire is completely free, it still makes a noticeable noise. The weird thing though is that it only seems to do this when the capture card is on and actively displaying a video. In the Elgato game capture software I left my switch off, and tried to see if the live commentary would still be loud. And it wasn't, the audio was perfectly normal. However, the Game capture software doesn't actually record anything until there is a signal coming from the capture card, so I couldn't record it. So I decided to fire up OBS Studio to see if maybe it was just some weird bug with Elgato's software, but it did the same thing, even while the switch wasn't on. So I removed the HD60s as a source in OBS studio and tried to see if it worked normally then..and it didn't. Recording 2 (WARNING, STILL VERY LOUD) OBS no sources.mp4 At this point I was thinking maybe my microphone was defective, so I tried to just record a simple sound in window's sound recorder Recording 3 (Not as loud no worries) Windows Recording.m4a And..it sounded completely fine. I started playing around with some settings thinking maybe there was something I configured incorrectly in OBS or the Game Capture software. But then I noticed..this Recording 4 (VERY LOUD) OBSVolume.mp4 So it seems like my speakers is connected to the static noise? Honestly, i'm really confused with this and not sure how to work it out. Im assuming the USB audio signal is interfering with the Speakers audio? Maybe there's some sort of interference with the audio the HD60s is putting out? Very confused. But! ya. Any help with this is greatly appreciated, I really don't have any idea where to go from here apart from just picking at the audio settings and see if they might fix the issue. I can send any info you might need, any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks! Edit: Fixed the video links, my apoligies Edit: Also, the mic still works in other programs while recording from the capture card. So I can still record my voice in windows voice recorder while also recording in OBS just fine. It just wont let me do it within the software

Honestly, it was a pretty quick Google search so I probably did just skim and write down the first number I saw. And this is really cool! I didn't know a website this comprehensive for power draw was around, probably will use this in the future. But thank you! Deuces

Hello! It's been a while since I've been on here. But I'll make this quick. I'm considering upgrading my current GPU to an amd rx 570(8gb model no OC, if it matters) from a gtx 1050. My main concern is wattage and running too close to my PSU's reccomended wattage. Here's a list of my specs Seasonic 430w bronze rated psu Ryzen 2200g Gtx 1050 One HDD and an nvme m.2 SSD After some quick googling, my CPU at full load pulls around 70ish watts and the RX 570 pulls a little less than 300, bringing the system power draw to 370 watts leaving 60 watts overhead for the rest of the system. This is my first GPU upgrade so I'm not sure if that's too little for my system or maybe I should consider a bigger PSU upgrade before I buy the GPU Any comments are greatly appreciated!

I did with the main motherboard header and the CPU power (I can't remember the name of it but the other cable at the top around the CPU) but nothing else apart from those two but hm..I'll look into trying another PSU and see if it posts with that. Thank you everyone by the way :3 ill try to look into a new PSU and update if it fixes the problem

Tried that when I was taking things apart the GPU plugged in and the Integrated graphics don't work ,unless there's another problem with the GPU...maybe,but I don't have another PC to try it in

It still boots up though? The CPU cooler and the ram (it has LEDs) still turns on when I press the power button, the problem is there's no post to the display. Not saying your wrong or anything but I thought if those things are getting power then that means it's not the PSU

Just tried to and it's a negatory still no display