ratva

Excellent, thank you - I'll go ahead with the reset with all drives connected then!

I believe the configuration data is on the drives themselves, as I've experimented with Storage Spaces as well and they're transferrable between Windows PCs (I set up an ReFS partition made up of 2 virtual disks on an SSD via SATA to USB for fun).

Having used this feature many times, all it does is replace the Windows parts of your boot drive, leaving the Users folder alone.
It does not touch any other storage drives connected to your Windows install.

Thanks, there's actually a UK pc part picker but I'm afraid I looked there already. As good as it is, I suspect the list is not quite complete when it comes to monitors - if you disable all filters other than setting size to >24", and brightness to >440 nits then you only get 2 monitors (4K ones from Asus and LG selling for £2000 and £1500). Note I set minimum price to £1 so it removes the ones that aren't available.
 
Maybe there are no monitors with more than 400 nits that are less than 4K, but that surprises me if it's true.
 
That's why I made this thread hoping for anyone that might have used a decent hdr monitor first hand.

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#W=2400,2700&sort=price&X=0,50000&P=2,4&a=16009&v=75075,100100,100200,200100,200200,400200
 
list of all monitors under 500usd (400 pounds). there are only 8 which fit in your requirements. this website may be inaccurate for the UK as these are mostly US listings. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQDq85VkFNQ&list=PL7m5C6_P_lnXb9cHwdo0Ct1TTZ7KUwm3e
 
link to a playlist of high quality monitor reviews. they go through everything for each monitor that they do. 
this guy makes sure that if a monitor says HDR, it is atleast hdr600 (none of that hdr 400 bs) and he will tell you color space, response time, quality, etc. 

I don’t think there are many good options right now. I really like my Samsung CHG70 but it’s a little above your price range and only 400 nits. The main killer for most affordable hdr monitors right now is the brightness.

For anyone interested - I had gotten in touch with Akasa about the link I posted in the OP, and got this reply:
 
No indication as to what the price will be, but it looks like the product should be in stock in the UK within 2 weeks.

I did, however they only had either Type A only variants, or Type C only variants. As mentioned I'm looking for something with at least 2 type As and at least 1 type C.

If no-one knows of any in particular I'll just wait till I can find/import the Akasa one.

I think I got everything... if you have any questions, ask below
 
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The first step is to decide what you want your setup to be, as you'll need to know how many parts to order. There is a few different options, and once you've chosen, click on the parts list for your respective setup.
 
1. Single Camera w/o hub server
Parts list: Pros Least expensive setup Cons Lower attainable FPS/res 2. Single Camera w/ hub server - *RECOMMENDED*
Parts list: Pros allows for future expandability higher attainable FPS/res more reliable vs. no hub Cons costs more (you have to buy a second Raspi) 3. Multiple Cameras w/ hub server - *RECOMMENDED*
Parts list: Pros higher attainable FPS/res more reliable vs. no hub Cons cost (lol, 2 cameras + hub is still cheaper than a Nest cam) 4. Multiple cameras w/ a desktop computer as a hub
This is a setup that you can build, but I haven't investigated it yet, so stay tuned on this.  
My recommendation is to have a hub server regardless of the number of cameras to ensure the best possible image quality, but if your budget doesn't permit, a single camera w/o a hub server can still work decently.
 
 
Click on the header for your desired setup to see the actual DIY steps.

Apologies.

Apologies.

I didn't have much luck with that CPU cooler or it's older brother. The cooler blocks off one memory slot unless you are using low profile RAM.
You could probably take a look at the Corsair Obsidian 450D for a case, it is what I am using and it looks tidy and sober, yet it has a nice side panel without looking flashy. Plus it includes removable dust filters in every intake.
For connectivity, the motherboard includes an Ethernet port. And if you are unsure if you are going to need WiFi, or will only use it very occasionally, just get one of those TP-Link USB nano adapters, tuck it in a rear USB port and forget about it.
The PSU includes the power cables. And motherboard includes SATA cables. Optical drive is optional, you can get an external USB drive later on if you find that you need one. Or if your laptop has a drive already and you don't use it often, you can just share it over the network and use it that way.
 

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/93Crxr/cryorig-cpu-cooler-h7
 
It's a bit more costly BUT it's been praised as being better than the 212 for Price and performance.
 
You also don't want a NEX Power supply, that's the old version of it the new version is much better.
 
You don't NEED wireless if you're gonna be near your router with it all the time. If not then wireless would be good unless you want to string a long ethernet cable around your house.
 
You also don't need a soundcard unless you're an audiophile or working in music. But my recommendation would be the ASUS Strix SOAR, it's only $99 and very good in my research. But to even get any quality out of a sound card you need some pretty good headphones.
 
 
2400 will be find for the RAM. 3000 is really only needed if you're hardcore into gaming or doing some extensive CAD or computing work.
 
 
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/2RPfrH/hitachi-internal-hard-drive-0f10311
This is a much better HDD and a lot more reliable than Samsung.