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Wh0_Am_1

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Somewhere exploring the Milky Way Galaxy
  • Interests
    In search of the unknown!
  • Biography
    Anonymous for 8 years and counting.
  • Occupation
    Staying anonymous
  • Member title
    Professionally Unknown

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
  • Motherboard
    ASROCK X570 Phantom gaming 4
  • RAM
    64 GB
  • GPU
    Zotac RTX 2080, Gigabyte GTX 1660
  • Case
    Antec P101 SIlent gaurdian
  • Storage
    2tb Teamgroup MP33
  • PSU
    750 Watt
  • Display(s)
    ASUS TUF VG27WQ 27" 2560 x 1440, 165hz, 400 nit, VA monitor, HDR400, LED monitor + Dell 1907FP 19", 1280 x 1024, 75hz, 300 nit.
  • Cooling
    NH-D15 and stock P101 fans
  • Keyboard
    EVGA Z15 Linear (gaming only), EVGA Z20 Clicky (general use) Logitech G413 Carbon (booted down to macro duty)
  • Mouse
    EVGA X20
  • Sound
    ATH-M20X headphones, Logitech G733, Sony WH1000-XM4
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    2020 ASUS A15 TUF506IV AMD Ryzen 4800H, Nvidia RTX 2060 90 Watts, 2TB of storage, 64GB of RAM, 90Whr battery, and 144hz display.
  • Phone
    LG V60

Recent Profile Visitors

6,234 profile views
  1. Welcome to the LTT forums! Haven't the foggiest about the the Phillips hue, for everything else though, assuming that you don't want/need breakneck SSD speeds an old or cheap pc paired with an HDD of the desired volume it should be able to do the trick (preferably with windows unless you feel like learning Linux or another solution, and *window is really easy to set a NAS up with), as almost anything remotely modern (Core 2 duo or later) come standard with a gigabit ethernet. The real issue comes down to the game server, as I imagine that you want to run a dedicated server, in which case the requirements come down the game you wish to host, otherwise if you are looking just to store your files that falls under the NAS function listed earlier. Regarding network you are likely going to want an unmanaged network switch like this one, as well as an access point of your choice Ubiquity or otherwise, though if you are looking for a consumer based solution I personally recommend taking a look at ASUS routers (such as this one) as they have the ability to be turned into a mesh network when you wish to upgrade your setup. *Regarding the setup of a Windows based NAS I am going to reference this reply I made previously :
  2. I mean the other cheaper, and easier option is that you find an old computer, Raspberry pi, fire TV or anything else that you might have that can run Moonlight, and get a setup that can connect through either USB or bluetooth. You will want a strong local network connection for this solution.
  3. Disclaimer: THIS IS GENERAL ADVICE I DID NOT LOOK UP THIS MOUSE. That out of the way, I would recommend taking a pry tool to where this plastic meets, as the bottom piece likely has clips holding it in. They may have also hidden screws under the pads. Those may have also been the screws that hold in the mainboard, and not the screws that hold the mouse together.
  4. Welcome to the LTT forums! What version of Minecraft are you running? I assume that you are likely running Java. In which case you are dealing with a single threaded application, i.e. it only can use one of your four cores due to how it was coded (as it was developed in an era where one or two cores were the norm). Anyhow as Java can only use one core and you have four, task manager or whatever monitoring application you are using is probably displaying the average load over all four cores, and as your other cores are not doing anything, save for one running the OS and all of the other bloat or secondary processes. Assuming this is the case then your other cores are all free real estate for another server or something.
  5. Welcome to the LTT forums! As this is a decently old processor at this point I am going to recommend a relatively cheap MOBO that should hold you over until you decide to upgrade. Also most of the better MOBOs for this processor are no longer in production, or are selling at inflated prices. Do note that you will need to get yourself a new wifi adapter such as this one.
  6. I personally like building in the Fractal Design Focus G. It's one of the cheapest good cases and it has it where it counts. There are cheaper cases but you get what you pay for, even on this case (listed for $55 USD) they cheap out on the fans as their margins are razor thin. Personally I would recommend on getting a Noctua Redux NF-P12 120mm fan for the rear vent as it only comes with two fans (both relatively cheap sleeve bearing ones). P.S. Also another reason to swap to a custom case, even if your MOBO did fit and align, the industry does not agree on the layout for front panel connections on your MOBO, most OEM cases for assembly speed will integrate this into a single connector of their design for ease of installation, but these almost never fit on most custom MOBOs, as most custom cases will have these separated into multiple wires to allow for the many different layouts that industry has. To fix this there are adapter kits, but the quality of most affordable kits is questionable, often times though the price of these kits will get you a decent portion of the way to a new case, so unless you are really pinching pennies it's just worth it to get a new case.
  7. For that system to game you would need to find an appropriate GPU, it wouldn't need to be all that powerful... As your CPU does not warrant it, I don not know the used market in that country, but I would look at something like a (for Nvidia) GTX750, 750ti, 760, 950, 960, 1030 GDDR5 (watch out for the DDR4 variant... don't buy that), 1050 or a 1650 For AMD I would be looking at a RX460, 470, 480, 560, 570, 580, or a 6500XT.
  8. Okay to start you need to understand these two equations (just in case you don't) watts = volts x amps, and volts = resistance x amps. To understand these terms I will explain them in the way of water, as electricity is the flow of electrons (-) to protons (+) and the principles are generally the same (generally.... though there are notable differences): Watts is power or total flow water coming out of pipe, volts is pressure (how hard it wants to move) , amps is current (how wide the pipe is), and resistance is the friction slowing the water down or the waste. The more you increase the amperage the more the voltage is going to go up, the more voltage you push the more degradation you are going to get (the smaller the process the less voltage you can push through the processor before you degrade it, smaller process = smaller pipes, don't go over pressurizing your pipes.... it doesn't end well... other wise with that pressure, just like with a broken pipe the electricity may decide to overcome the silicon, or induce multiple other failure modes) *(to be probs fixed) the more you increase the wattage the more heat you are going to produce from your resistance, and the more heat you generate from the resistance the more resistance you are going to have. You can only cool so much, as after a certain point it becomes very difficult to move any more energy away from something. ...I am going to stop my response here (This response is incomplete.... BUT I am publishing it ANYWAY! XD) and probably come finish it as I probs should head to bed after a long day work... and my train of thought derailed....
  9. How about this and then buy the SSD and RAM that you would want/need? (alternate option 6900HX barebones for $352 USD)
  10. It's just Bing with a lot of the telemetry and other items disabled.
  11. I get the feeling that the ROG Ally was seriously rushed in development, far too many flaws made it past the preproduction faze. With just how fast they were rushing it, I doubt they really spared all that much thought on the battery past the fact that it works and has decent run time. I mean it seams that they had a fairly solid foundation, with good ideas, but probably got rushed when they learned that other companies were also gunning for that market.
  12. If that is the case as some one that bought the Omnicept Edition at full retail price, that's a good deal. I personally would recommend looking to get your hands on the Reverb G2 version 2 which has native support for Steam VR. This matters since Microsoft has given up on Windows Mixed Reality, it's unstable, deprecated, and will be removed from Windows in late 2026. As to the fate of the still solid Reverb G2s, nobody knows what the fate of these headsets will be, all we know is that it will likely be rough path trying to use a headset that is locked on WMR in the not so distant future. As much as I would love to recommend the OE headset to you for how amazing the hardware truly is... (it's beautiful) I can't whole heartedly do so with what we currently know about WMR at this time. Once again the G2 V2 is likely your best bet unless you want to spend a whole lot more money.
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