BrokenProgram

So, I tried to RMA an X99-WS E motherboard with Asus a few weeks ago. The board just stopped booting one day, code 00. I submitted the RMA, packed the board in it's original box (which was put in another box) with socket cover installed. I even took photos of the board while packing it (for shipping insurance purposes). Here are said photos. My RMA was subsequently denied for "Customer Induced Damage" of which they sent me photos. The tech that got ahold of my board actually BENT A FEW PINS. They claimed they would fix my board for $154. I keep everything I own immaculate and was incredibly surprised by this claim. ASUS shipped the board back to me, which showed up earlier this week. This is the board when I got it back (without a socket cover, might I add).
I couldn't believe what I was seeing. I had heard the ASUS horror stories over the years, but I had not ever had to RMA a board with them. Now that I have, what an absolute joke! I have never dealt with such an unprofessional company. I have RMA'd with EVGA and Gigabyte in the past with no issues (let alone anything like this).
I went and contacted there corporate care team. I spoke for about 30 minutes with a rep (who was actually quite nice) who promised he would get the issue sorted out for me after I sent the photos I had taken. As requested, I sent the photos and waited. Yesterday I got an email from what I presume is the rep's manager saying my "request for free repair" had been denied and that if I wanted my motherboard fixed I should have paid the fee they requested.   I have no idea what recourse I can take. If anyone has any advice I'd gladly take it. It's essentially my word vs. theirs. I'm sure plenty of people have successfully RMA'd through ASUS - I just got screwed here. Unfortunately I'm the one out a couple hundred dollars looking for a new X99 motherboard. Needless to say I'm incredibly upset with ASUS and will NEVER be purchasing or recommending another product from them.   EDIT: Apparently a misunderstanding, will be getting resolved.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($188.90 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($56.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Team - T-Force Delta RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($174.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Crucial - MX500 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($79.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Toshiba - 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($42.19 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card  ($214.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Cooler Master - MasterWatt 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($42.16 @ Newegg) 
Optical Drive: Lite-On - iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer  ($13.89 @ OutletPC) 
Total: $813.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-17 21:05 EST-0500

Id advice again getting a motherboard that cost more then the cpu. Dont get a h60 the stock cooler is more then fine and you wont need to buy the thermal paste unless you feel you are going to mess up and have to replace the paste. Get a cheaper motherboard and try and get a 8400 instead. Also get rid of the DVD drive. Install windows through a USB.

He turned on tablet mode, the way you can fix this is going to the notification manager and clicking on the tablet mode button at the bottom of that window if it isn't apart of the four options there then click expand and it should be within that menu

He turned on tablet mode, the way you can fix this is going to the notification manager and clicking on the tablet mode button at the bottom of that window if it isn't apart of the four options there then click expand and it should be within that menu

I would recommend at least  1050TI to run at near 60fps at mid to high settings as the 2gb variant would most likely run out of VRAM and unless you have a lot of really fast system ram this will result in a reduction of performance

I would recommend at least  1050TI to run at near 60fps at mid to high settings as the 2gb variant would most likely run out of VRAM and unless you have a lot of really fast system ram this will result in a reduction of performance

I would recommend at least  1050TI to run at near 60fps at mid to high settings as the 2gb variant would most likely run out of VRAM and unless you have a lot of really fast system ram this will result in a reduction of performance

FYI, finally located the part. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kentek-8-Inch-8-4-Pin-Molex-5-25-Male-to-Right-Angle-90-Degree-4-Pin-Molex-5-25-Female-M-F-IDE-DC-Internal-Computer-PC-Power-Cable-Adapter-Cord/189278902

The PCIe power cable should give more than enough power required for a 1060, even if you've got it heavily OC'd.
 
The source of your frame rate drops definitely isn't from the lack of a molex giving additional power.

Ah, the picture of the motherboard is not clear. I would refer that location as the far left of the motherboard, (it would be the bottom rear if the board is mounted vertically).
 
The user manual says "Please connect a 4 pin molex power cable to this connector when more than three graphics cards are installed." Presumably a single card system has no need for the added power. 
 
I would not think that frame drops would be caused by insufficient power.

Looks like M.2 to me.

He bashes display manufacturers for adding multiple screens together and applying it to the vertical resolution metric. For instance two 4k screens =/= 4k, and three 4k screens =/= 12k.
 
Yet he puts the very thing in his video thumbnails to clickbait. I understand Youtube channels have to be clickbaity, but I don't see how you justify about complaining about the same tactic you utilize to increase your own revenue.
 
This is just one of the many ways he manipulates thumbnails, and one of the main reasons a lot of people can't take him seriously at all.

The USB is most likely set to Fat 32 which has a 4gb per file transfer limit your solutions can be either to change the format of the USB or to use Winrar to split it into multiple archives 

I would recommend any of these because they also give you Bluetooth:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/r7RFf7/gigabyte-gc-wb867d-i-rev-42-none-wi-fi-adapter-gc-wb867d-i-rev-42
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6Zs8TW/asus-pce-ac55bt-b1-none-wi-fi-adapter-pce-ac55bt-b1
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di
but if it had to be out of those two I would go with the TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 due to the dual-band capabilities but if you're on a really tight budget you could go with the USB one.

LOL, both of them are TP-Link

LOL, both of them are TP-Link

I would recommend any of these because they also give you Bluetooth:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/r7RFf7/gigabyte-gc-wb867d-i-rev-42-none-wi-fi-adapter-gc-wb867d-i-rev-42
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6Zs8TW/asus-pce-ac55bt-b1-none-wi-fi-adapter-pce-ac55bt-b1
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di
but if it had to be out of those two I would go with the TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 due to the dual-band capabilities but if you're on a really tight budget you could go with the USB one.

I'm not too sure on the statement that each of the GPU dies is as fast as a 1050 but if the crossfire can be fully utilized then the 6990 would be better but else the GTX 1050 is better
 
(Note the Crossfire is disabled on the 6990 in this benchmark)
Source:http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1050-vs-AMD-HD-6990-Crossfire-Disabled/3650vsm7713

A 1080 and a Ryzen 5 1600 should push 120+ FPS in basically all games at very high or ultra settings. 

This worked for me:
Credit: https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/8ab132c5-fdf5-409d-92c8-a96ebfc3eeaa/error-while-upgrading-to-windows-10?forum=win10itprosetup

your CPU isn't going to like streaming