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About NotDaveMustaine

  • Title
  • Birthday 1996-02-17

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Carolina
  • Interests
    Tech, Video Games, Engineering
  • Biography
    Industrial Engineering student at Clemson
  • Occupation
    Quality Control Engineering Co-Op


  • CPU
    Intel i7-6700k
  • Motherboard
    MSI PC Mate
  • RAM
    16GB G.Skill DDR4
  • GPU
    Zotac GTX 970
  • Case
    NZXT S340 Black
  • Storage
    WD Blue 1TB HDD, Mushkin Eco 120GB SSD
  • PSU
    Raidmax Hybrid 600W
  • Display(s)
    Acer 144Hz 1ms 24in
  • Cooling
    Corsair H55
  • Keyboard
    Thermaltake Poseidon Z
  • Mouse
    Thermaltake Level 10 M
  • Sound
    Logitech Surround Sound Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

364 profile views
  1. I didn't. To be safe, should I just bump it to 1.4v and run it?
  2. I recently put together a new build featuring a Ryzen 5 2600X, Asus TUF B350, and team group vulcan DDR4 3000. I verified that the ram was on the QVL for my mobo. As expected, it defaults to 2133 without messing with the bios. However, when I went into the bios and changed the speed to 3000, it failed to post and I had to reset the CMOS, which was a giant pain in the ass. How do I safely get my ram to its rated speed, given that that ram kit at that speed is on the QVL? Or at least, how do I get it closer to 3000? I'd rather avoid having to take the gpu out and reset the CMOS again. Thanks!
  3. There's a massive power difference between your CPU and your GPU. If you want any semblance of balance, you need a better CPU- For a 1080 ti, get an i5 or Ryzen 5 at a minimum. Source: own 1080 ti
  4. More of a personal preference thing: I would look for a matx case. My friend did his budget build with an matx board in an mid tower and it just looks goofy. Idk if you had already considered this. Cheers!
  5. Just ran a burn test for you, since I like you so much (winky face). In my windowed Fractal R5 it's basically a very dull hum... while keeping the CPU at 56 C.
  6. Not to go off menu, but I'm a huge fan of the Cryorig H5. It's currently 48 pounds on UK Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/cryorig-H5-Universal-Cooler-radiator-refoidisseurs/dp/B00MBTOY2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496176943&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+h5). I use it to cool my OCed i7 6700k and it does so effortlessly. It also looks really good- an area where noctua drops the ball. The fan is pretty quiet, it's not unnecessarily massive, and it just plain works at a good price. As a bonus, the thermal paste included is no slouch either.
  7. realistically spending less than that on a 'mech' keyboard will be dicey as all getout- speaking from experience. If you don't want it stolen (but want it to work), membrane is probably best for that use case.
  8. razer blackwidow refurbished. Highly recommended.
  9. This guy is right. Even though he commented first I did not see it, and I missed the PSU in the parts list. Your power supply is scary bad.
  10. GPU is your priority. GTX 1050 ti or 1060.
  11. I've had a laptop where the heat pipes got old and became useless. That's a safe bet.
  12. Ayyyy represent I believe it's too much too fast. USBC is objectively better, but we haven't shifted there yet as a society. Consumers didn't want a 100% C computer, and it seems like it could be yet another thing that will slowly poison Apple's well as far as being completely oblivious to consumer demand. I want Apple to do well, I just really don't like how they've been doing stuff in the past 5-10 years.
  13. Could be defective heat pipes or crappy default thermal paste. Well, there's definitely crappy thermal paste. Also, clean your fans out.