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Peter Boyle

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  1. Peter Boyle
    I’ve heard that AM5 can take a long time to post in some cases but I honestly have no idea why it would work outside the case but not inside unless something wasn’t connected properly when it was moved inside the case. I’m assuming you’ve done all the go to checks like reseating and repositioning the ram in the slots using just one stick? I know am5 has had some bad memory compatibility issues so that could be a cause. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. I was so stumped when the issue happened to mine but it fixed itself when I got a new motherboard.
  2. Peter Boyle
    I found that I actually had a defective motherboard. Common issues that cause it are that you haven’t updated your bios to the newest version so the cpu doesn’t get recognised by the motherboard. Have you updated your bios?
  3. Peter Boyle
    Okay thanks. I don’t have any mechanical hard drives, only M.2 drives so it can’t be that. I turned the fans up to full speed and now it seems fixed so I guess it was something to do with the fans
  4. Peter Boyle
    Hi, I built a new pc about a month ago but today out of no where the AIO cooler starting making a really loud rattling type of noise. im just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what it could be? My temps seem fine so far but im not sure if the AIO is on the way out or not. Certainly hope not considering it’s only a month old. I really need this PC for work so any help is greatly appreciated so I can get it fixed ASAP. I plan on checking to see if the fans are loose and causing the noise. I doubt that would be the issue but I’m hoping it’s a simple fix like that again any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance sorry for the short clip. Couldn’t upload anything more due to file size IMG_0800.mov
  5. Peter Boyle
    I’ve updated the bios using that method but sadly the cpu and dram lights are both still on. Does that mean it’s faulty hardware?
  6. Peter Boyle
    Ah thanks I’ll give that a go. I appreciate the help
  7. Peter Boyle
    Both the CPU and DRAM lights are on and showing a solid red. This is my first AMD build so I wasn’t actually aware you had to update bios to have it support the CPU. The pc won’t even get to the bios so how would I go about updating it if that is the issue? sorry if this is a really stupid question I’m just clueless it seems with AMD
  8. Peter Boyle
    I’m sure the ram is installed correctly. I pushed down with even pressure on both sides until I heard a click and the small lever thing (idk what it’s called) clicked back upwards. I’m going to try swap the ram sticks about when I wake up as it’s currently 3am here in the UK. do you by any chance know if the ram could cause the CPU light to come on or is that a whole other issue?
  9. Peter Boyle
    Hi, I built my new AM5 pc today however I’ve ran into a few issues. The main issue being the red CPU and DRAM warning/debug lights on the motherboard. I’ve got a 7800X3D for the CPU and 2x16GB sticks of Kingston Fury Beast (6000Mhz) . I checked that the ram was compatible with the motherboard (NZXT N7 B650e) but seems there’s still an issue somewhere. I’ve installed the ram in slots B2 and A2 according to the manual but no joy. Im hoping that for some reason the ram is causing the CPU light to turn on as I bought the CPU during my recent trip to america so won’t be able to return it if it’s faulty any tips or advice would be appreciated (additional info: GPU seems to power on fine however the front IO ports on the case don’t seem to be working. I’ve connected the USBs but I’m not sure if they’ll only start working after the PC boots and gets it’s initial setup. thanks in advance for any help
  10. Peter Boyle
    I use PC part picker a lot it’s a life saver I could wait I suppose I think it was more a case of my CPU is starting to become pretty annoying performance wise in a lot of intense games. I suppose I just seen the GPU as an easy upgrade I could do a month or two down the line but I could wait till I have enough for the whole system. thanks for the help by the way. I appreciate it
  11. Peter Boyle
    I probably can’t increase it enough to get a new GPU. The plan was to to do the rest of the build, list my 3070 for sale and buy the new GPU when I’m payed again within the next month or two. I’ve just finished university so I’m just getting my work hours increased to full time this month. I’d say max 30 days before I can get the new GPU as that’s when I’m getting a full time wage in
  12. Peter Boyle
    I’ll give them a look thanks for the suggestion. I have an EVGA at the moment and it’s worked perfect
  13. Peter Boyle
    That’s definitely what I’m planning to do but I’d probably buy a new GPU first as I’m on my PC 24/7 when not at work. I was going to go for a 4080 I think
  14. Peter Boyle
    Yeah I’ll be getting the case and PSU I think in the UK. America seem to stock Corsair PSU’s a lot and I’ve had horrendous experiences with their RMX line and their customer support so I’m aiming for another brand
  15. Peter Boyle
    I’m building for 1440p. I currently have the 240Hz 1440p Alienware monitor (big mistake but that’s another issue for another day ). I do plan on upgrading my GPU later but at the moment I’m too heavily CPU bottlenecked to even benefit from my 3070. Basically just a money thing. GPU is the strongest part of my old system and easy to upgrade in a few months time.
  16. Peter Boyle
    I was considering it but the thing that put me off is I’m running two different kits of ram that don’t match. It has had some slight issues where sometimes the kits won’t agree with each other (I think that’s the issue as the pc is perfect when running one set). I think I’m just kind of ready for a totally new build. Plan was when I build my new pc I’m just going to give my old one to my younger sister because the 6700k will be fine for Roblox I’m sure
  17. Peter Boyle
    Budget (including currency): £1500 (excluding GPU) Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming Other details: I am going to keep my current GPU (RTX 3070) and upgrade that at a later date. I’m currently thinking of going down the route of the 7800X3D as I play a lot of Escape from Tarkov and the x3d CPU’s seem to perform very well. I’ve seen that there’s not much difference between the 5800X3d for tarkov but I want to be on DDR5 so I can build up and work on my pc over time. I would if possible like a case that has the panel on the right side as my pc has to sit on the floor on the left side of me. Not essential but would be nice to see into it as my current build has the side panel against the wall. I’m currently in Florida and may buy a few parts while here as it is cheaper than in the UK. My only concern is that i take them home and they’re defective and need to be returned to the US. Which components would people recommend steering clear of due to failure rates? I was thinking motherboard might be a bad idea but I’m still on the fence with the CPU. upgrading from a DDR4 system with an i7-6700k and 32GB RAM thanks in advance.
  18. Peter Boyle
    I'll try that later on once I finish my uni work. Hopefully all goes well with it and itll save me buying totally new ram sets
  19. Peter Boyle
    I tried putting his RAM sticks in today. It SEEMS to be working fine and they seem to be at 3200MHz without needing to XMP again. Ran a game of tarkov and the PC was using 17-18GB ram so im guessing theyre compatible
  20. Peter Boyle
    Its a really good game but its a steep learning curve. I was actually debating getting 64GB ram if I do buy a new set but I plan on building a new PC when I hopefully get a job after graduating in the summer so I dont wanna spend a lot on DDR4 just to then possibly get a DDR5 PC within the next year
  21. Peter Boyle
    Will do, thanks again for the suggestion. All this hassle just because Escape from Tarkov wants to use all my RAM xD
  22. Peter Boyle
    Ill give this a go and check. Its looking like I wont be able to find the same kit as the one I currently have as it seems to only be the RGB version thats readily available. If the timings look out between the two kits I'll just order a new 32GB set with 2x 16GB sticks. Thanks for the help I didnt actually know you could check speeds this way
  23. Peter Boyle
    I might just buy a new kit all together then. Ill link the RAM I currently have. I have a feeling it was one of the earlier versions of the trident Z line as it has no rgb and seems to be out of stock in most places Ive checked https://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Skill-F4-3200C16D-16GTZB-Trident-PC25600-Noir/dp/B015FY3BJ2/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2SFUD3K2KVHEX&keywords=gskill+trident+z+rgb+16gb+3200mhz&qid=1675125171&sprefix=gskill+trident+z+rgb+16gb+3200mhz%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-16
  24. Peter Boyle
    Hi, I am looking to upgrade from 16GB to 32GB of RAM for my gaming PC. I was going to just order two 16GB sticks from Amazon but my friend has offered to give me his two old 8GB sticks for a pretty cheap price. My current setup is 2x 8GB 3200MHz sticks but I have four slots available on my motherboard. My main question is will I encounter any issues if I just install my friends old RAM sticks along with my current ones? His are also 3200 MHz however his are Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB while mine are GSkill Trident Z sticks. I've always tried to stick to having all my sticks being the same to avoid any possible issues but I dont see a point in wasting money if using his will work perfectly fine. Thanks in Advance. My motherboard: https://www.asus.com/us/motherboards-components/motherboards/all-series/maximus-viii-hero/
  25. Peter Boyle
    Hi, I’m currently waiting on my new 16” MacBook Pro with the M1 Max chip arriving. I’m slightly concerned that the supplied 140W charger will degrade the battery faster and with intense workflows likely draining the battery within a few hours I would need to charge the MacBook more often. Does anyone have any input on if it’s worth going and buying either an Apple (or alternative brand) lower wattage power adapter to charge the laptop? Usually I’d just run with what’s in the box but I plan on keeping this laptop for as long as physically possible so I’d like to keep the battery in good health for as long as possible. I was thinking maybe the 96W Apple power adapter or maybe even the 67W version (if that would charge the 16” model). Thoughts? thanks in advance
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