MrlUnleashed

So I have tried to undervolt/underclock my 3060 and have been pretty successful with it, didnt want to do anything too extreme just to reduce temps and power draw, also the coil whine almost disappears, its a thing that has been following this pc from its first iteration. The first image is stock curve with only +500 on the memory, max core boost around 2010MHz under load, and the second is my first attempt on undervolting or underclocking, set to 937mV @ 1860MHz and stable. It does lower the performance a little but not by too much for what I play, and I can still fine tune it a bit more as it also ran at 950mV around 1950MHz or so stable, but I went further and settled on what it is now. I dont have screenshots running any stress tests but doing that I got total power draw from around 170W on stock down to about 120W and less while running Unigine heaven 1080p on ultra settings. Playing Modern Warfare it was on average 10-20W less in both cases, and temps were about the same at 50-55C on both, but undervolted I got the fan speeds from 84% stock to match the temp +10, so if its 50C fans were at 60% speed. Now the issue, or more of a nuisance is that the second curve wouldnt stay at 1860 but vary all the time, going lower or even over 1900 at times, although I didnt have any crashes or so but maybe some weird behavior in Cod was because of that, but the voltage still remained the same. The second curve I got in a way I set the core to default first, typed -250 and applied and then dragged the dot on 937mV up to desired frequency and applied which resulted in the straight line. Also locking it didnt do the trick it stayed at wanted voltage but clocks still jumped around. I just dont want it to vary too much to not get any crashes or worse. The question is does the variation in the curve happen usually and how to fix it if its possible, and any other tips on setting the curve in any better way Id much appreciate it.

Im trying that right now, the windows logo appeared but its just that, no dots circling like its loading, at least it didnt crash right away.

Im trying to install windows to my new pc and it just keeps bluescreening. I kept my previous PSU, graphics card and sata m.2 drive with the games I have. New are the CPU i5 10400f, AsRock H470 Steel Legend mobo and RAM, also I added a Samsung 970 evo for my new system drive. Everything shows up in BIOS. I have a Linux Mint bootable stick and it wouldnt run it of the usb either, but no crashes just black screen. One thing Im not too sure if it matters where I put the nvme and where the sata m.2, but i think it just wouldnt recognize it if that mattered. All I found so far is to disable or enable either CSM or Secure boot options in bios of which none did anything for me. I really dont know what to do and I hope nothing is faulty, if you have any suggestions or solutions to this it would be much appreciated. UPDATE: Now its just stuck on windows logo and nothing happening, I removed my game library sata m.2 and left only the nvme one, it didnt crash now at least. I also updated the bios in case that might help but its still the same, now I just left it like that if anything happens.

Any decent paste would do if hes ready to take it apart, Ive personally put arctic mx-4 on my rx 480 and it worked absolutely fine, or if he can, unless the warranty void sticker is on then its better sending it back first. And it can more likely be bad contact rather than paste, its a new card the paste cant be that bad. Also it could be just one among many that came out badly assembled or who knows.

3300X went for a good price and I know its an awesome performer but its unavailable unfortunately. But yeah its worth waiting for a bit more, I really dont want to make a small upgrade it makes no sense. 3600 or 2700 and up it is then.

I might check the used market if anything pops up, people now mostly sell first and second gen parts. So Ill look if the 3600 price comes back down or if I find a good deal on 2700/2700X lets say. 2600 is the cheapest but I dont really see it giving much more than my 1700.

Not sure was it hardware unboxed review or on their site but the frame time was a lot worse than on the 3600 in their testing, average fps wasnt that much different.

3500X was what I first looked into since its available for a lot cheaper than 3600 and I dont really need the extra threads. Really wanted to get a second opinion since some say 3500X isnt really worth it but it seems to be the best option.

Yeah pretty much what I thought but its kinda easier to get someone elses opinion aswell. Got the 1070 just recently and with 1700 in it I almost get the same performance as with the rx 480… maybe better frame time as it feels smoother but not much more fps. Just want to get something that can run the 1070 nicely.

Just gaming

Currently I have a Ryzen 7 1700 and Im selling it to my friend so I cant really decide what to get now. 3600 isnt available or is waaaay overpriced at the moment so the 3 from the title are the choice now. I have 16gb 3600Mhz ram and a GTX 1070. 2600 is the cheapest option, 3500X (with which I can have my ram at 3600 hopefully as the mobo states for 3000 series, rn 3333 is the most it can go) is about 33$ roughly more and 2700X another 33$ (converted from my currency, and give or take if I find any for cheaper in another shop). I play at 1080p 144Hz panel, so all Im looking for is which can get the most out of my 1070, as 1700 seems to struggle a little and I dont plan to overclock. Im keen to 2700X, unless its worth saving about 60$ and go with the 2600. 3500X is just an option since its the cheapes 3000 series part (only cheaper is the 3100).

And the bequiet PSU buzzed silently when off only, other than that they are clear.

With Asrock one it was the Straight Power 11 500w 80+ Gold GPU was RX 480 4gb with one 8 pin Now CX650F 80+ bronze GPU is Gtx 1070 with one 8 and one 6 pin power connector Now and before Ive powered the system without the gpus just to clear that and under load Ive opened the case and checked precisely where the whine is coming from, and its from the vrm area of the motherboard, just before the back IO. Sorry I didnt mention where exactly do I hear the whine.

Gamers nexus did a roundup on best 5700XT. They have among all, charts with temperatures aswell and it varies between models. Also it might be a bad contact between the cooler and the gpu die. Id try to return it or get replaced, 100°C is just too high.

I built a new pc a little while ago, some used some new parts. The motherboard I got (new) was ASRock B450 Steel Legend and under load I noticed a pretty loud coil whine coming from the PC. After some troubleshooting I found out it was the motherboard. Psu also produced some kind of quiet buzzing noise while the pc is completely off, but not when powered on. This week I got a mobo Msi B450 Tomahawk Max, psu and a graphics card (all new). And again same story, the motherboard makes the same whining sound as before but a little less loud. The Cpu Ryzen 7 1700 (all stock) and the cooler Shadow Rock 3 are still in from the previous build. Shadow Rock 3 has plastic spacers that separate the screws and metal parts from the motherboard so I think it cant be it causing any shorts or whatever. Its screwed in as much as it could go and I did not force anything too much. Both GPUs are fine, fans were fine, all checked, no sounds other than fans spinning. Today Im getting an extension cord/brick that has all kinds of protections and what not to see if the problem might be in the wiring in my house causing it, since both motherboards had coil whine, on the same outlet. The pc and monitor were both plugged in with the same basic cord I had so ill try to separate those 2 aswell. Monitor also produced some whine if I restarted the pc and didnt turn it off then back on. Lastly, if that doesnt help, Im worried if the CPU could be the issue here. I got it used, the guy was legit, he did some video editing and stuff like that and it was under watercooling the entire time he had it, unless he had some really high OC on it that I dont know about. No pins were bent, it looks perfect and I have no stability issues when pc is in use. I even had it overclocked a bit and undervolted at one point, it was all fine but the whine was still present. Its all stock now. HW monitor shows about 40-55/60A (about 60 was on Aida stress test I believe) and about 80-90W power draw on the CPU under load. Also to mention the previous pc I had and was plugged in the same outlet I didnt notice any sounds besides fans. Im mostly worried if it could cause issues later and it is a little bit annoying. If anyone has any knowledge on similar issues or what it could be Id very much appreciate any info.

The little clip ons were on the other side and these 2 separate plugs were next to each other but they wouldnt allign right so I just had to switch their places basically, got me confused for a second.

Thank you, I really didnt know, I was mostly curious whats up with it.

Just wondering why are there 4 empty pins on the 24 pin cable and why are there more than 24 on the power supply? I had to twist the 2 separate plugs to get them in correctly. Total is 24 and the motherboard side has all 24… there are just those 4 extra in the middle.

So first I noticed slight whining noise when my pc was off and after some investigation came to conclusion its from the motherboard. Today when the pc was under some load that similar noise was much more stronger and audible. I tried absolutely everything, CPU is even undervolted slightly from stock, frequency stock, memory set to 3200 1.35V, nothing too special. Updated BIOS. Ran AIDA all running good and has been for the past few weeks since I built it. Checked everything and its 100% the motherboard. PSU does make some buzzing noise while off too, maybe because of the 5V standby thing it has, not sure either, guessed that caused motherboard to pull some power aswell. Only thing Im worried about is it anything harmful or just regular coil whine? I can hear it but its mostly audible when I put my ear up to top of the case.

I'm thinking of getting a monitor to replace a TV that I'm using as a display for my laptop, as the laptop screen is starting to have some "bleed" effect going on and the TV has backlight issues. Both displays I ran so far were 768p and the new monitor I'm looking at is 21.5' 1080p. The TV can go up to 1080p and most games ran fine, some dipping into 40 fps, but all are turn based undemanding titles so its not too noticable. Now I'm just worried how bad would it look if I put some games to 720p on that 21.5' screen? The TV I have now has huge squares visible on any resolution so I dont have any idea how would it look on a screen with higher pixel density.

I just read its a blue switch. Is it loud? I go pretty hard on any keyboard naturally, so thats my only concern, will it be too loud. I do play games occasionaly, not too much but I press some keys very frequently as I play.

I will be buying a new keyboard and Ive looked at some "top X amount best budget keyboards", these 2 show to be more or less recommended and are available right now, at the same price. The Redragon one is mechanical and the HyperX one is not. I havent used a mechanical keyboard before and dont know the difference. So Im hoping some of you may have used those and are they any good.

I guess it might just be a few unlucky individuals. Its really the best option for me, a good CPU and a decent GPU just enough for what I need.

Games I play have low requirements, just wanted to see does it hold up well since Ive seen people having BSOD and errors with it.

Dont really have a budget, just wanted to keep it as low as possible, but still not go for the cheapest parts. What Ive set with the 2400G comes to about 575 USD, its high because our tax is pretty high but it goes the same for any configuration. Im in Croatia btw. Ive looked to get an RX 570, used for about 105 USD (local, not using ebay or similar), but pairing it with a new ryzen 5 1600X as its the cheapest one from the bunch isnt really what I need and ends up as wasted money because I wouldnt use it to its potentials as I dont need that much performance. What Im most interested does the 2400G have that much issues as some people claim that it makes it a bad buy, otherwise it would be perfect for what I need. New GPUs cost way too much for any of them to be a good option to buy here, and those which are decent, like 1660, is not what I need.