MaximumSid

Okay so Min FPS is the loweest FPS that happened, but 0.1% low is the average of worst 0.1% of FRAME TIMES that happened between frames, so when converted to FPS (Like Fraps does in this screenshot), the converted 0.1% frame times can be LOWER than the MINIMUM FPS that game ran at?

Why would you expect them to be completely consistent? According to Cherry themselves, its 45cN +-15cN.
https://www.cherrymx.de/_Resources/Persistent/fd0f4073283c9ae3f5d3721c0072a46452858ed3/EN_CHERRY_MX_RED.pdf

ya i was going to ask if its asus cause for some reason they like to dual boot like that to charge up the caps. its normal but keep an eye on performance just in case. the evga boards do it too. those temps are fine. if your in the 80 range then start to look out but 70 is fine. is it air cooling cause thats normal for air but if thats liquid then your pump could be to slow or the fans to slow or low on fluid or clogged cause that would be high for liquid

again a restart doesnt shut off all the way so it doesnt need to charge the caps but a power on from off will. its a normal thing and linus talked about it in the midnight caffeine pc build when it did that to them and then they realized it was an asus board and was like oh ya they do that

all your boards are acting normal for asus boards they like to charge the caps up to get better performance right away instead of waking up while running for more stability it helps a lot in hardcore overclocking.

I guess this is what happens when you want to advertise a high boost clock to pad your spec sheet but refuse to bump up the TDP in line with what you would expect.
It's hard to judge how many VRM phases there are because despite having what appears to be a certain number of phases, some of them are not actually what constitutes a phase. You'd need the heatsinks removed to tell for sure. To be completely honest, it looks like the Z390 has proven to be an opportunity for motherboard manufacturers to cash in with inadequate motherboards and it's really all because of the conservative TDP listed in the 9700/9900k specs. I think you'll need to spend an appropriate amount of money relative to the cost of the CPU this time around if you want to get the full performance.

Edit: Sorry never mind, this post is asking a different question. Unlocked.
 
@MaximumSid Check out the news topic on this, might answer some questions you have around it. https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/985797-core-i9-9900k-power-thermals-did-linus-and-oc3d-tv-get-it-wrong/
 
 

Have a look here https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-z390-motherboards,37896.html

it sucks that your masterwatt was defective(kind of not really) but this isnt indicative of it being a cheap psu issue or not, its not like you killed your components with a name brand psu and posts like this just make the waters even more muddy than it needs to be
your masterwatt would have been fine and outside of the coil whine it powered your system and wouldnt have caused an issue if said coil whine didnt exist

fact of the matter is as long as you get a name brand psu with the appropriate wattage for your system you will be fine because you have a name brand company standing behind their product, its not like you bought a coolmax 1000w psu and it burnt out your system , sorry but you kind of blew this out of the water

Honestly other than the coil whine you could have just rolled with it, it is a quality PSU that could have lasted a long time.

Just an update for anyone in the same situation as me.
 
I went with RM 850x, which will take some time to arrive, meanwhile since the 2080 Ti had arrived, I thought I could at least safely test it with the MasterWatt. I played Crysis 3 maxed out at 4K (got ~40 fps), so on load, the masterwatt started making a horrible coil whine. I recorded the video and contacted Amazon, and told them that this item was defective, so they agreed to take it back and refund the amount.
 
So lesson learned, really don't cheap out on PSU, I wasn't expecting this from something having a Cooler Master name on it. Really not worth risking your expensive components. Maybe some other 80 Plus bronze PSU would've been fine, but really not worth taking chances.

I totally agree, bro. Since I'm into playing e sports games (Which is not high demand games) At the moment, my GPU would nail 1440p @144Hz. And when the time comes I decide playing other AAA games cranking down my settings would probably work as well. 
 
After I recover from my setback, I'll definitely consider upgrading to a 1080 TI or maybe a 2070. So once a purchase this monitor, I'll go ahead and clock it to 144hz then activate Gsync optimizing all of my games via Nvidia? 

Another thing to note is that these Asus and Acer monitors have the SAME panel made by the same company, so you could as well save some money by going with Acer. The only difference is the outer frame and design.

Well, if we talk about what I specifically think, I just cancelled my shipped order for one of those Acer XB271HU monitors (1440p @ 144Hz) because I found out that Acer is going to release a 4K @ 144Hz monitor (Acer XV273K) for $900 soon. I know that my new RTX 2080 Ti (MSI Gaming X too btw) won't be able to handle 4K above 60Hz, but I think that even the desktop and scrolling experience on Windows is going to be worth it. I will also be able to game on it at 1440p, as if it was a 1440p@144Hz monitor, so that's a big advantage for me. You could also consider this, because you'll be able to get 4K resolution @ 144Hz for desktop and general crispness, and will be able to play 1440p, or 1080p @ 144Hz with your 1070 too.

CS:GO, Fortnite, Dota should be fine, don't know about Battlefield. I have a 1070 too, it's not going to perform well at 2K @ >60Hz for even older graphically demanding game. It's strictly 1440p@60Hz at this point.

Thanks a lot for the help guys, I went with the RM850x. What EMC said was quite true, corsair link will lose its novelty soon, plus it will also take a USB header on motherboard, and lastly, I should be able to make up for the ~2% efficiency difference on load somewhat with higher wattage. Also, $20 bucks is $20 bucks  

So supposedly the only difference between the RMi series and the HXi series is that the HXi series is 80 Platinum.  That aside, you get the i series bells and whistles and 2 extra years of warranty compared to the standard RM series.  Draw your own conclusion based on that.  I don't think you'll have a problem with either, so I'd get more watts for $20 less.  I already have an RM850x though
 
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/blog/RM-RMi-HXi

I don't see a reason to spend $20 for less wattage... If they're both Tier 1 PSUs and they both put out enough watts for what you need, get which ever one will look better in your case I guess.

IMO, both are great choices. I would get RM850x as you will forget about corsair link after a few days.