AlexQC

So I'm installing a contact frame on my i9-13900K (cooled by AIO). I wanted to check the thermals/voltages before and after to see the gains and I was wondering what would be a good methodology to do so. Usually I run a stress test with AIDA64 and take screenshots. What do you suggest me and which metrics should I compare to measure the gain?

So, I have a WD Black 6TB (WD6002FZWX) HDD in my PC at the moment and it's getting pretty full. I want to replace it with a larger drive. This drive has no apps/games installed on it, it's only used to store music, videos, photos, backups, documents... The new drive must be quiet as my PC is right next to me. I was thinking of getting a WD Red Plus 12TB (WD120EFBX) since they seems pretty quiet and I trust WD. I was wondering if it's a good fit for my use case (using a WD Red alone - my main drive is a nvme ssd)?

And since those cables don't have any connectors, any idea where I can buy female ARGB connectors (like you connect to the motherboard) so I can DIY my cables? I checked AliExpress and Amazon without success.

I want to make an ARGB header to JST cable. A couple of months ago I purchased this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003407470145.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.703d1802jKoNzN to create my own cables. One side is already done and installing JST cables is easy but the cable is so cheap that each time I cramp the JST pins I break the cable (even with little force). This is the tool I use to cramp the pins: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K?th=1 Anyone know a better source for cable for my project?

I have a video suggestion. Do a video on car tech to enhance your car experience. I just bought an used car (2019 Camry) and it only support wired CarPlay and you will never see me with an iPhone, so I found those Chinese mini computers that enable wireless CarPlay and Android Auto on my car it's as it adds feature to my car that Toyota won't make but it's far from perfect (I got the Carlinkit 4.0). Here are some ideas that can translate to a video (like when you did the dashcams video) : Are those solutions secure? Can they contain malware like some Chinese Android boxes? How do they work (my guess is that it act as a translation layer from wired CarPlay to wireless CarPlay / Android Auto) How to fix the common connectivity issues (choppy music) Are there homebrew solutions (open source projects) Comparison of all the competing products Anyway what I'm talking is about what I experienced but any other car tech that enhance your experience while driving would be nice (security, windshield projected image to get some kind of augmented reality, etc). Thanks and continue the good work!

Yeah my Lian Li AIO fans use 4 pin JST but only 3 pin are populated (why they didn't use a 3 pin connector then it's a mystery). Yeah we can always dream of a standard, but like you I think it won't happen... or : Credit : https://xkcd.com/927/

Indeed. But what choice do we have until everyone use the same standard Is it the same for 4 pin JST : ?

Yeah I know it's why I do cable adapters to convert all of them to regular ARGB headers and I then use SignalRGB to control all.

They are, it's just ground 5v and data. They don't make adapters because there is no demand I guess (that and because some of them *cough* Corsair *cough* want to lock you in their ecosystem). Anyway I want specific cable lengths.

So I'm making ARGB cables for the Lian Li Galahad AIO 360 fans and pump. Currently all 4 are using ARGB JST connectors. The fans are using 4 pin JST connectors (only 3 of the 4 pins are populated) and the pump is using 3 pin JST connectors. I want to convert to those JST to regular ARGB motherboard header like this : Now I want to triple check the pin layout on each side. Anyone know the spec? I found some post but want to triple check. Thanks!

I have a Canon CanoScan 9000F (9600 dpi) and I'm being offered a Epson Perfection V700 Photo (6400 dpi) and a Epson Expression 10000XL (2400 dpi). Now I'm using my scanner to scan printed photos (not negatives). Now when I compare these 3 scanners, it seems my scanner would be best for printed matter, the V700 would be better for negatives and the 10000XL can scan larger documents. Now on the 10000XL why the dpi is so low? This scanner is still quite expensive versus my consumer grade CanoScan 9000F. How can I compare their qualities? Is there a good place where I could ask this question? Thanks for the help!

Pfff we probably have the same age (and I'm maybe even older) and I'm not old For 4K I liked Metro Exodus (in fact all the Metro series is great in 4K). All the newer Dooms are great in 4K too but you probably tried them already...

I guess? (Never took the time to learn ARGB standards as it's my first build with RGB)

No, here are diagrams of what I need:

Does anyone know of a company or someone that can do custom ARGB cables? I want to replace my 3 to 1 cable for 3 single cables for my AIO fans and also create a custom cable for my case ARGB lighting.

So I wanted to improve temps with my ROG Maximus Z790 Hero + i9-13900K by installing the Thermal Grizzly contact frame but it's not "compatible"! The screws on the ROG Maximus Z790 Hero are too short (either that or the fact that the thread on the screws are not going all the way to the tip of the screw). The screws that I'm talking about are those already present on the motherboard that you reuse to install the contact frame. Is anyone here found replacement screws that fit and not too long?

You could use a SATA to molex adapter if you still have the PSU cables for SATA... They are available on Amazon from StarTech (or maybe also elsewhere).

Windows Fast Startup is always disabled on my rigs as stated before.

Yes I'm a dev and no webserver or any dev tool are running when it happened. I checked I EventViewer as suggested above and there are zero errors around when it happened. I finally managed to get a video of what is happening (occurred like 3 times in the last 3 weeks so it's a rare occurrence) : Some context to the video below. At the time of filming the the blue "Windows is shutting down" message disappeared and both my monitors are turned off (yellow LED instead of the greed LED). Also notice that both RAM sticks RGB LEDs are OFF (they are always ON when I power my PC). The rear fan LEDs are OFF then they come back ON... I'm pretty sure It's the BIOS and not Windows but never saw this kind of problem.

Sorry I meant fast start-up (did not check prior to writing). I don't use EventViewer that often (I can't find anything ever)... Do you have tips on how to filter the messages? Next time it does that I'll try to film what it does and after I'll check the EventViewer logs.

It's already OFF as stated. And power profile is set to maximum performance. Not that I can see or hear (it's a nvme ssd and the HDD led is not blinking). Remember that the "Windows shutting down" with the spinning wheel is off and the monitors LEDs turns orange then the PC does nothing and after a couples minutes the PC turns off. During that time fans are spinning.

Here are my specs which might matter: Windows 11 Pro ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Hero (updated to latest BIOS) Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6000 (2 sticks of 32 GB) Intel Core i9-13900K Sometimes when I shutdown my PC (I don't use fast start-up in Windows so it's a full shutdown every time) the PC stay ON for minutes after Windows is OFF (monitors are shutdown). It's like when you boot you PC for the first time when the memory training is being done but now it's at the shutdown. What is happening it's the fist time I see that for a PC?

So, I changed my 2 kits of 2*16 GB (all 4 sticks were consecutive S/N) CL36 to 1 kit of 2*32 GB CL40 and now with 2 sticks it works perfect with XMP 1 profile.

Would it be much better with 2 slots instead of 4, I have the occasion to switch from 4x16 to 2x32...

help?