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Alec M

Member
  • Content Count

    529
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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3 Followers

About Alec M

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 2002-09-23

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561198178666934

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison, WI
  • Interests
    Electronics repair, computer building, photography/editing photos, working in CAD software, music, and animals.
  • Biography
    I like to repair electronic devices, build computers, work in CAD software, take and edit photos, as well as visit dumps, scrapyards, and recycling centers to find cool stuff.

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX 8320 overclocked to 4.5GHz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5
  • RAM
    8GB of GeIL Dragon with a hynix heatspreader added + 2x2GB Corsair CM3X2G1333C9D
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 960 FTW ACX 2.0+
  • Case
    NZXT Source 340 black+red version
  • Storage
    ADATA SU800 Ultimate 256GB, 500GB WDC WD5000AVVS, 1TB WDC WD10EZEX, 1.5TB ST31500341AS
  • PSU
    EVGA 600 B1 100-B1-0600-KR 80+ BRONZE 600W
  • Display(s)
    Dell U2415, Dell 2209WA, Westinghouse 24" 1080p TV
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i GTX with a 280mm radiator added
  • Keyboard
    Apple Extended Keyboard II
  • Mouse
    Dell WM123 Wireless mouse
  • Sound
    Logitech X​-540 with ​modified ​speaker set​up on chair, ASUS Xonar U7, Digital Au​dio Labs -​ CardDelux​e PC Sound​card
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,805 profile views
  1. Yeah, those are getting closer and closer to retro every day Still plenty usable though
  2. I recommend Solidworks, Autodesk Inventor, or Fusion 360. Inventor and Fusion are free if you're a student.
  3. This is a great collection of standard motherboard form factors with all kinds of useful info. https://grabcad.com/library/generic-atx-matx-mitx-thinitx-motherboards-1 Often the way I get the PCI-e slots on the back of the case right is by finding a model for the size of GPU that I want, and mating it to the inside of the slot on the motherboard with all the proper constraints.
  4. It's super easy to find 350-450w PSUs for free though...
  5. I pretty much just used some 1/2" and 1/8" plywood I had laying around. As for screws, I recommend Kreg screws with pre-drilled holes around 1/8" or less. There are practically no brackets in it, since the front and back are held in with slots cut into the plywood with a table saw. The only brackets are the two tiny blocks of wood to hold the GPU. A great way to hold the motherboard on is by threading standoffs into holes drilled into the wood where you need them to be. Sadly I didn't take any pics while originally building it. I'll see if I can find pictures from when I installed watercooling. IMO building cases out of wood is pretty easy, but you do have to watch out for screws stripping out. If that happens, put a little bit of hot glue in the hole that stripped out, and screw it back together before the hot glue fully hardens
  6. Should be possible. CAD software really helps when it comes to something like this, and Google Sketchup isn't a bad option, it just takes a bit to get used too. I did something similar for a desktop I made for my brother a few years ago. It wasn't in a server form factor, but it was necessary, since it had a really weirdly shaped supermicro board inside. Using PCI-e extenders saved my plan, since the GPU would've run into components on the board. Also, another mistake I made when I designed it was a lack of airflow through the case. I had a 140mm vent at the front, which I used for a radiator later on, and a 80mm vent at the back. Some chips other than the CPU towards the back started getting really hot, since the motherboard was originally designed for a 1U server with air flowing over the whole board constantly. I ended up solving this by mounting several fans inside to blow on the back part of the motherboard where the other hot parts were, and added an extra 120mm fan on the bottom. Thankfully the hexagonal mesh on the front that wasn't for the 140mm fan kept it from being a complete disaster.
  7. Yeah, touchscreens are totally overrated for photography, especially if they aren't implemented well. Redundant SD card slots are really nice too. I overlooked that when I was looking through the specs on the D750.
  8. Alec M

    Get past bios

    Sorry for not seeing your message, I was away for a while. I probably should've let you know. Glad you got it working though!
  9. Alec M

    Get past bios

    Yep, just wipe the USB drive, and then you're good to go.
  10. Alec M

    Get past bios

    Go to the support webpage for your motherboard, whatever company it's from should have drivers for the network adapter. You can just load them onto a USB drive on some other computer and then run them on this one.
  11. Alec M

    Get past bios

    Awesome! I'm glad you got it working!
  12. Lol, I ran into the same problem when I first got a watercooler. I did some super jank stuff though, my fans were on the outside of the case. Never even thought to use zip ties XD
  13. I'd go with the D750, since you'll get better looking images from not only the higher sensor resolution (24.3 vs 20.9MP), but the larger sensor will also have less noisy images, and will generally look cleaner. The ridiculous extended ISO on the D7500 is kind of pointless, since you won't get images that look very decent, especially with noise reduction. IMO anything higher than 12800 on modern consumer cameras starts to look weird even if you aren't pixel peeping.
  14. Alec M

    Get past bios

    Yeah, I'd try restarting it. 64 bit is what you want, so that's fine.
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