-rascal-

Those are JUST the Primary memory timings.
Go through (or try, it's long) the DDR4 Memory Overclocking guide I linked.
There a sub-section that talks about the different Memory Timings.

Usually, the Memory ICs are binned / screened.
If they don't meet spec to run at XXXX-MHz at X-X-X-X-X timings, they get used in slower kits.
 
The memory timings are completely different between the Corsair and G.Skill kit.
You need to dig into the primary, secondary, and potentially look into the tertiary memory timings.
https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4 OC Guide.md
 
When you ADD the G.Skill kit, the Memory Controller (IMC) is setting the Memory timings to run at the "looser" G.Skill CL18-22-22-42.
BOTH the Corsair and G.Skill kits are running at CL18-22-22-42.

But that's only the primary timings, you have a sh#tton of secondaries and tertiaries as well
 

Usually, the Memory ICs are binned / screened.
If they don't meet spec to run at XXXX-MHz at X-X-X-X-X timings, they get used in slower kits.
 
The memory timings are completely different between the Corsair and G.Skill kit.
You need to dig into the primary, secondary, and potentially look into the tertiary memory timings.
https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4 OC Guide.md
 
When you ADD the G.Skill kit, the Memory Controller (IMC) is setting the Memory timings to run at the "looser" G.Skill CL18-22-22-42.
BOTH the Corsair and G.Skill kits are running at CL18-22-22-42.

iFixit has a Logitech G27 disassembly / repair guide.
That looks like the "...metal half-circle clip..." shown in Step #19, mentioned in orange.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Logitech+G27+Optical+Encoder+Replacement/42113
 
 

Only the heat sink was cleaned with a screwdriver, while a alcohol cloth was used for the CPU.
 

Check for a motherboard BIOS update.
I recall in the early stages of Re-sizeable BAR, there were some bugs... I think 'Tech Jesus' Gamers Nexus even reported that in their testing.
It is not enabling / disabling properly in the BIOS, and you need to either clear the CMOS, or something, to resolve it.
Even though the BIOS says it's "Disabled", it is actually still "Enabled" ... and on some motherboard models, the other way around.
 
Also make sure your DRAM is running at rated frequency + timing, not at the JEDEC default of DDR5-4800 or something.

That system can be vastly upgraded for a small amount of cash.
Adding more RAM, 40€, small boost
Adding a Ryzen 5700X, 150-200€, a nice boost
Upgrading the GPU to a Radeon 6800/6800XT/7800XT for 500-600€ or a Radeon 6700XT/6750XT for 350-400€, quite a boost

If you're the same person that asked on Discord a few minutes ago, the answer is the still the same. Just the screen... and $80. 
 
Before you spend $300 on an NZXT AIO, just keep in mind there are better options for a fraction of the price if you value performance. 
 
 

Do you have FreeSync enabled in the monitor settings?
It seems like this monitor, *can* flicker or go black for a second when FreeSync - Ultimate Engine is used.

Do you have FreeSync enabled in the monitor settings?
It seems like this monitor, *can* flicker or go black for a second when FreeSync - Ultimate Engine is used.

Some 5.1 setups like Logitech use multiple channels off the mainboard, so you have to send out the center/sub, left/right, rear channels individual wires.
 
 
 

It's a decent laptop. Fortnite, Rocket League shouldn't be a problem.
The latest CoD? Maybe? The RTX 3050 is not the fastest GPU.
 
8GB is fine, plus, you can always upgrade it for cheap.
The maintenance / service manual shows the laptop has two DRAM slots.
If it's set up from the factory with a single 8GB stick, all you need to do is throw in another 8GB, to make it 16GB, and you're good to go.
 

 

It's a decent laptop. Fortnite, Rocket League shouldn't be a problem.
The latest CoD? Maybe? The RTX 3050 is not the fastest GPU.
 
8GB is fine, plus, you can always upgrade it for cheap.
The maintenance / service manual shows the laptop has two DRAM slots.
If it's set up from the factory with a single 8GB stick, all you need to do is throw in another 8GB, to make it 16GB, and you're good to go.
 

 

Oh jeez, I didn't even noticed the header right next to the chip.
That's the give-away. 😆

Oh, @-rascal- your image is clearer and that right chip definitely says winbond. That and its right next to what is probably a programming header. I bet that's it. 

A bunch of tabs + applications open...get the 7800X3D.
I think we assumed work-related things as in number-crunching or design work that eats up as much cores as possible.

It probably does say something but the lighting in that image is causing it to be washed out. 
 
Its very likely one of these two. Is it just me or does that one on the right look to say "winbond" ? If it does, that's the BIOS chip for sure. 
 

The older design fan controllers would control the fan RPM by reducing the input voltage.
Like this sucker that I had in my old AMD socket AM2 system.
The knobs controls the voltage, from 12V ~ 0V.
Of course, if the voltage is too low, the fan just stops.

https://www.overclockers.com/vantec-nexus-fan-controller/
 

Yes, Ryzen 7000-series has 28 PCI-E 5.0 lanes
16 for GPU slot(s) 4 for 1st M.2 slot 4 for 2nd M.2 slot 4 to the chipset First two M.2 slots are full-speed PCI-E 5.0, but the last two are going through the X670 chipset, and it only PCI-E 4.0 speed.
GPU slot(s) are unaffected.
 

I am aware of this. Since TT didn't say this, my theory is that this is the case. I can think of no other excuse for it. So, to me, this means the Commander FT isn't a fan controller - it's a hub.

With a PWM (4-pin) fan header, the pins are PWM, tachometer (RPM), power, and ground. Only one fan can be connected to the tachometer pin which is why splitters will omit that pin on all but one. Most likely Thermaltake is just omitting reporting RPM to the fan header entirely.

Go into BIOS and force PCIE into gen 3 mode. 

A friend of mine had a similar issue with installing an RTX 3060 in a Z690 board with an i5 12600K. The issue was resolved by manually setting the PCIe slot to use PCIe Gen 4, rather than PCIe Gen 5.
 
If you already tried that, then I'd recommend updating your board to the latest BIOS version.

That platform does not support booting off PCIE. You will either need to somehow mod the bios or have the bootloader on a seperate device. EITHER WAY, absolutely not worth it to have an nvme on that platform as its PCIE2 only.