-rascal-

It's hard to say by looking at the GeForce overlay, it gives TOO basic information. They should either have the GPU-Z monitoring / sensor tab open, or something else like HWMonitor running. It can be just something overheating (i.e. VRM, Memory, or Hotspot temperature). Or...there is something physically wrong with the graphics card.

Fair enough. I guess the wife has put her foot down and made the executive decision. I'd thought the e-CVT with the physical first gear would be okay for at a stand-still launch on the non-hybrid trims. Nonetheless, hybrid option, I think, is definitely the way to go daily driving around town, etc. Reason I recommended hatchbacks is, you can have compact SUV cargo capacity, without SUV-like feel and driving / handling. Again, it looks like your lady is okay with the seating position and driving feel of the Corolla Cross .

Not a fan of the torsion beam rear suspension on the CX-30 - pets/people seated in the rear will complain. I'd suggest the Mazda3 AWD Sport (Hatchback) over a CX-30. You don't *need* the 2.5T engine option, the non-tubo 2.5 is peppy enough. +1 on considering hybrids variants if you just need something to commute / put around town, etc. Depending on the budget, Lexus UX 250h? (It's gone UP in price since the UX's 2019 debut) 11th gen Honda Civic Hatchback? It is A LOT more cubic footage and rear space + trunk space, at the level of compact crossovers. Certain regions already have the Hybrid version, but coming to North America as 2025 model year.

Okay fair enough...I assumed like a 2g or 4g / 5g tube. Jeez 50g

Did you use the ENTIRE syringe of thermal paste? You only NEED like 1/3 or 1/4 of that....jeez.

I understood your point, and I was attempting to "expand" on what you said that so other people could see why it's $260, instead of $5. I'm not disagreeing with you, but rather, agreeing with your statement 100%.

It's not that simple, if you want to get results remotely close to that of a shop. I've done this before, on my own cars, and getting paid to do washing / detailing / scratch removal / paint correction, etc. 1) Wash + clay bar the section to remove surface contaminates (i.e. dirt, grime from the road) and paint/crap transferred from the other car. If you don't have the chemicals/solution + cleaning tools on hand, then you need to buy that This takes time, YOUR time 2) Mask the section you want to repaint It's not hard, but again, takes time 3) Apply the paint Spray can? Paint touch-up pen? Applicator tool? This step requires some skill + patience, otherwise the end result will look hideous If you go the applicator tool option, that's like a $10+ part 4) Once the paint is dried / cured to some degree, now you need to blend / polish the surface and the area around it If you don't have an DA Polisher, polishing pads, and polishing compound, you need to buy that Time and manual labor to polish, inspect, rinse and repeat 5) Clean + prep the surface on last time 6) Re-apply the clear-coat on the repaired area 7) Re-seal the surface (i.e wax, sealant, ceramic coating, etc) Tools/pads/cloths + chemicals if you don't have them on-hand already Time + manual labor From start to finish, that can easily take you a few hours + cost of the equipment/tools. $260 isn't too bad if you think about it, since a decent quality DA Polisher can be easily $300+. A bottle of car soap, clay bar kit, polishing compound, sealant/wax is anywhere from $15 ~ $20 EACH. Throw in a polishing + buffing pad or two, a couple microfiber towels / wash mitt, masking tape.

Going through the Antec X81 documentation and manual, it looks like: The RGB fans you CANNOT control the fan speed and RGB. The fans are powered by Jurassic period 4-pin molex connector, and the RGB signal is connected to the Reset button to just turn them on/off. It looks like the fans just cycle colours of the rainbow continuously...or something. The ARGB fans option you CAN control the fan speed and RGB color. Fans are powered and controlled by a standard 3-pin fan connector, and the ARGB signal connects to a typical 3-pin ARGB header found on motherboards. $109 AUD? Are you LIMITED to buying from Centre Com (they look like an Apple reseller)? I think you can get a better quality case for that.... Cougar Archon Mesh 2 RGB ($89.00) https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/nHXJ7P/cougar-archon-2-mesh-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-cgr-5cc5w-mesh-rgb Silverstone FARA R1 Pro V2 ($89.00) https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/QgD7YJ/silverstone-fara-r1-pro-v2-atx-mid-tower-case-sst-far1b-pro-v2 Fractal Focus 2 ($99.00) https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/6bbTwP/fractal-design-focus-2-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-foc2a-02 Phanteks P400A Digital ($118.00) https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/QdXYcf/phanteks-eclipse-p400a-digital-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec400atg_dbk

Neither the motherboard or the PCI-E generation is a problem. PCI-E 4.0 X16 is plenty enough for a RTX 4070. Go right ahead for the RTX 4070.

If it has two indents, then it is a SATA M.2 SSD. It would also explain WHY your old SSD is not being detected by the new X670 motherboard. This X670 Gaming AX V2 motherboard ONLY supports NVM M.2 SSDs, and not SATA M.2. Most of the B450 motherboards have M.2 slots that supported both NVMe and SATA. Your B450M S2H V2 being one of them. One option is to use a SATA M.2 to 2.5" SATA adapter. Then hook it up to the SATA ports on the motherboard. https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-Adapter-Converter-Housing-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20

This. With 15,000+ files, it's not the SSD, but rather, Windows taking forever to index all the files.

What is the make and model of the SSD? Your B450 motherboard supports both SATA and NVMe SSDs. However, it looks like the new X670 motherboard only supports NVMe.

That's true, but the OP is not wanting to re-install Windows (at least, yet). He/she might have NOT have backed up their data yet, so they will have to boot into Windows and perform a back-up first. We cannot just instruct them to straight-up nuke the SSD and do a fresh install.

You shouldn't be forced to re-format the drive and completely reinstall windows from scratch. The old SSD, with Windows, should be able to boot into Windows. What is the make and model of the SSD? Do you have TWO SSDs now, or JUST the old one? On the new X670 motherboard, make sure the BIOS is properly set-up i.e. M.2 slots are not in RAID mode Secure Boot is enabled

Most of the manufacturers are going with ARGB fans, and starting to phase out the 12v RGB stuff. Cooler Master still carry 12V RGB fans https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/r8Gj4D/cooler-master-masterfan-pro-140-air-pressure-rgb-462-cfm-140-mm-fan-mfy-p4dn-15npc-r1 Arctic P14 PST RGB fans https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/wx4Ycf/arctic-p-pst-689-cfm-140-mm-fan-acfan00238a

FYI, 8-pin and 4-pin ATX power connectors FOR THE MOTHERBOARD is different than the 8-pin PCI-E power connectors for the GRAPHICS CARD are different. Also, you do not need the extra 4-pin ATX for a Ryzen 7 5800X; just the 8-pin EPS connector is already more than enough. Ryzen 7 5800X is a "105W" CPU. The 8-pin EPS is rated for up to 384W. It's ATX 3.0, if you are referring to the 12VHPWR connector. I don't know where you are getting the "ATX 5.0". I'm assuming you are mixing up "PCI-E 5.0" with "ATX 5.0". RTX 3080 Ti is PCI-E 4.0 complaint.

Did you make your own Windows 10/11 install USB stick? Did you use Microsoft's Windows Media Creation Tool? I've encountered that error before...usually means the install media is corrupt -- you need to make the install media again. What USB stick are you using? Size (16GB? 64GB?)? Also make sure UEFI Mode is Enabled in the motherboard BIOS settings. CSM / Legacy Mode is Disabled. (You may need to Disable Secure Boot and Fast Boot, and re-enable them after Windows install)

I would go with config Option #1 but have the drain port on the OUT port on the pump, or one of the ports on the side mounted radiator. Personally, I would use the bottom for top-to-bottom system airflow. Just fans, no radiator. You can also consider flipping the side mounted radiator so the in/out ports are at the top. Then have the pump directly feed coolant to the GPU. Pump -> (Drain Port) -> GPU -> CPU -> Radiator 1 -> Radiator 2 -> Radiator 3 -> (Back to pump)

Did you use the CORRECT thickness thermal pads for the correct areas of the VRM? Why are the thermal pads overlapping, and then folded over? It SHOULD NOT. Very little indentation marks on the thermal pads...looks like poor contact. EK-Quantum MSI MPG Carbon Z590 EK C D-RGB is what you are using? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-msi-mpg-z590-carbon-ek-x-d-rgb Did you gradually tighten the the 4x screws in a X-pattern? 1 or 2 turns each, until snug? Make sure the loop is correctly hooked up the inlet and outlet ports correctly. Coolant should flow IN the port on the right, and OUT port on the left.

The motherboard's output ports are through the iGPU, and iGPU only. The iGPU and RTX 4080 should be completely separate. It SHOULD NOT have the ability to work as an output signal pass-through...unless your motherboard SPECIFICALLY has that feature. Not sure if it's something to do with the nVidia drivers....Windows OS...

It looks like when you use a heavy bandwidth resolution (i.e. 4K, 240 Hz) the GPU will use Display Stream Compression (DSC) Mode, and that may use up two internal output heads to drive that one display. If that is what is happening here, then it would explain the symptoms you are experiencing. https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5338/~/using-high-resolution%2Frefresh-rate-displays-with-vesa-display-stream

6950 XT over the 7800 XT, especially at the same price. 7800 XT is more comparable to the 6800 XT (some cases the 7800 XT is noticeable slower than the 6800 XT, while it pulls ahead in some others).

I would try to avoid the need for multiple third-party ARGB software...because they tend to conflict one another. e.g. Corsair iCUE for RGB fans + ASUS Aura for Motherboard RGB + Gigabyte RGB Fusion for the graphics card... Most of the fans are pretty good...again depends on the rest of the components you decide to use (i.e. RAM, Motherboard). The Lian-Li O11 cases are compatible with their "UNI' RGB stuff, but ALSO comes with adapter cable to the 3-pin ARGB header on the motherboard. As far as decent fans... Corsair SP/LL/ML/QL fans (depends if you want more RGB, higher static pressure, etc) Lian-Li UNI FAN AL V2's Arctic P14 PWM PST (RGB / A-RGB options available) EKwb (RGB / A-RGB options available) You MAY need extension cable(s) for the CPU 8-pin? Everything else should be fine, I believe (i.e. ATX 24-pin, PCI-E 8-pin, etc).

There is no "Lian-Li O11 EVO XL ROG Certified". The "ROG Certified" one is a non-EVO. Where are you getting those dimension measurements? Those are not what Lian-Li gives... Lian-Li O11 EVO XL = (D) 522mm x (W) 304mm x (H) 531.9mm Lian-Li O11 XL ROG Certified Edition = (D) 471 x (W) 285 x (H) 513 mm 27" = 685.8mm The updated "EVO" variant is overall bigger than the old. Either of them will be more than enough, but EVO has improved quality-of-life changes. EDIT: Oh, if you are getting those dimension numbers from Amazon....that is the case packaging / box. They are just being lazy and measured the box the case comes in....

Not surprised. I know someone who works for Demonware in Vancouver, Canada (3+ years there now) ...they even say it's a sh!tshow, even with the previous installments. Yes, MW3 *was* supposed to be like a DLC, but obviously Activision-Blizzard's board of director's and managers just saw $$$. $90 Canadian Pesos for the "Base" game, and $130 for the "Vault" Edition. For what is essentially a DLC? No thanks. And a couple of my friends, including myself, were looking forward to this game -- earlier in the year, that is.