-rascal-

The TruePower series was not really a high-end unit, even at the time of release. However, it was definitely better than some of the "650W" crap CoolerMaster, Thermalake, and even some other Antec models, available. It has a lot of cables because of it's non-modular design, support for multiple graphics cards. The "extra" Fan-only connectors are there because motherboards didn't have much fan headers back then. I had an Antec TruePower Trio 430W back in ~2009, powering an upgraded Acer pre-built, running AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ with an ATi Radeon HD 4850. It was like $30? from Fry's Electronics (when they were still around and pretty big). The "Can it run Crysis" era.

Welcome to the LTT forums. May you please give us some more information about the HARDWARE of the system? Is this a Desktop or Laptop? What CPU / APU? Motherboard brand and model? Memory kit brand and model? Etc? Are you mixing memory? Your old memory kit/stick + the new 16GB kit/stick? To install Windows, usually Secure Boot and TPM is required to be enabled. You may need to disable those to get MemTest86 to run correctly.

The i9-9900KF is not supposed to run at 5.0 GHz during an all-core load. That is, IF the motherboard is following Intel's specs / guidelines for Turbo Boost 2.0 e.g. the motherboard is not overriding any of the CPU behaviors (PL1, PL2, Tau), like what Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) is known to do. UP TO 5.0 GHz is only achieved when only ONE or TWO cores are active. That is only for a short duration -- we are talking about 10s of seconds at a time, so it does not violate the "95W" rating. 1 or 2 cores active: 5.0 GHz 3 cores active: 4.9 GHz 4 cores active: 4.8 GHz 5+ cores active: 4.7 GHz That said, if you are seeing a range 4.5 GHz ~ 4.7 GHz, and the 100*C temperatures, then the CPU is also likely affected by thermal throttling.

Yeah, the Memory Kit is Samsung B-die it looks like. The kit's DOCP / EXPO is DDR5-6000 CL40, and supposedly THAT won't run either... At this point, I think OP should either : Run at DDR5-5800 (or slightly higher with BCLK tuning?) and dial in the memory timings (i.e. Primary + Secondary + Tertiary, whole meal deal). Return the Corsair kit.

Your video confirmed that. NH-D15 vs Arctic Freezer II, the difference is 0*C ~ 3*C difference at 130W, depending on the fan speed %.

I ended up going for the Corsair 5000D Airflow, to replace my Phantek Enthoo Luxe T.G. The Lian-Li Lancool 3 was one of my considerations.... Only reason I did not go for it was because had potential fitment issues with 2x 360mm thick radiators + tall pump/reservoir. If you are just going for air-cooling, or AiO cooling, I would recommend the Lancool 3. It is also a very mechanically well designed chassis.

You have a pump that is constantly operating when the PC is active, for the most part, flow is not a problem. People do not typically run the pump a full speed, nor is lack of flow typically an issue. Permeation is not a concern for custom "open loop" systems. You have to maintain the loop on regular basis anyway (i.e. once or twice a year), so even if it permeates 5mL, you won't notice it. Also, with custom loops (vs AiO) you have some kind of coolant reservoir / distro plate. Tubing, is considered as consumable / wear item. At least for me, whenever I maintain the water cooling loop, I replace all the tubing with brand-new. Mind you, I use soft-tubing. If I need to pay 3x+ more for hydrophobic tubing...no thanks.

Check in the BIOS, is Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) enabled? I think MSi calls it 'Enhanced Turbo' ? It *MAY* be enabled by default, which CAN run the CPU out of Intel specs.

I also noticed the Rear I/O shield is NOT installed... The case (Zalman S2?) COMES with a user manual...that WILL TELL you what screws to use, etc. Please read the manuals... Next, make sure the front I/O (power, reset, etc) buttons are wired correctly. You need to look at both the Case and Motherboard manual for that. Power SW = PWR_BTN Power LED = PWR_LED (there are + and - wires) RESET SW = RESET HDD LED = HDD_LED (there are + and - wires)

@ItsPattyD Ryzen 2700X is a 8-core / 16-thread CPU, while the 5950X is 16-core / 32-thread. There is more cores = more heat generated, so not surprising the 5950X will have a lower Base Clock, so it conforms to the "105W" spec. For gaming purposes, and workloads / applications that can make use of the X3D V-Cache, the 5800X3D will outperform the 5950X. The 5950X has the 16-cores across two 8-core chiplets, so there is some performance loss due to communication between the two. If you need the additional cores, sure, get the 5950X. Otherwise, the 5800X / 5800X3D / 5700X3D over the 5900X / 5950X.

That is because your monitors are different resolutions. While you extend the display across three monitors, cursor can't go to where no pixels exist. Your option is to move align your monitors to the top...but you'll have this problem on the bottom. Or scale your Monitor 2 (4K one) to match Monitor 1 and 3....but you might / will end up with black bars or won't run at native 4K resolution.

The caddy / adapter is SATA, so the drive's performance is LIMITED by the SATA interface. Even if you get the world's fastest M.2 or mSATA SSD, it is still limited / throttled to ~550 MB/s sequential read/write. Could have just bought a native 2.5" SATA SSD in the first place...

Well, PCPartPicker is weird. It's telling you to: Convert the USB 3.1 Gen1 -> USB 3.1 Gen2 (i.e. USB-C) -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094R7PDM1 Convert an old USB 2.0 -> USB 3.1 Gen1 -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D58HBP/?th=1 However... some thing this seem to exist. USB 2.0 -> USB 3.1 Gen2 (i.e. USB-C). https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Internal-Header-Degrees-Adapter/dp/B0B5CHQ33W/ref=sr_1_9?crid=25Q9VJBH4237X&keywords=usb+2.0+to+usb+3.2+gen2&qid=1706230985&sprefix=usb+2.0+to+usb+3.2+gen2%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-9 If that works, then you just need one adapter. Native USB 3.2 Gen1 -> USB 3.2 Gen1 USB 2.0 -> USB 3.2 Gen2, using adapter. Third option to is convert PCI-E slot to USB 3.1 Gen2. Something like this...

You don't NEED the adapters. It's just the 4000D Airflow has a USB-C port on the front that uses a USB 3.2 header. Being that the B450-F Gaming II is an older motherboard, it simply doesn't have that header. The PC will still work, it's just that the USB-C header on the case does not work.

Gigabyte's block diagram supports what I am saying, so does their details specification. Look at AMD's specification sheet for a AMD Ryzen 7000-series CPU, and the block diagram AMD released. For an example, the Ryzen 7800X has 28 PCI-E 5.0 lanes supplied by the CPU, 24 are usable, while the remaining 4 is allocated for the communication bus between the CPU and Chipset. From the X670E AX motherboard block diagram. However, how to split, distribute, manipulate, and wire the PCI-E lanes, it is up to the board manufacturer. On the CPU side, and how AMD designed the I/O, it provides 28 PCI-E 5.0 lanes.

Have you monitored the temperatures on the GPU during gaming? How high does the Junction / Hotspot temperature get? Also, are you using a custom fan curve, or using the default 'Auto' ?

Which make/brand and model of your RX 6800? Which version graphics drivers are you using? If it IS too out-of-date, don't just ignore the warning box...actually go and update them. Latest stable release is 24.1.1 - actually released yesterday (Jan-23-2024).

Did you go through the nVidia control panel? You can go through 'Global Setting' and manually override it... or use 'Program Settings' to make it program/game specific. Default is 'Auto-select'

The PSU just needs to run to power the pump - just the SATA or 4-pin Molex...or whatever is used to power the pump. You can completely disconnect power from the motherboard, GPU, etc. If the EPS 8-pin, ATX 24-pin, and PCI-E connections are extensions, just disconnect them from the PSU end. If the PSU is bridged on the 24-pin connector end, the on/off switch on the back of the PSU is what you use. Fill the res/distro plate with water. Flip the PSU switch to the "on" position. Watch the pump start to push the water into the loop. Before the res/distro plate runs dry on water, shut the PSU off. Add more coolant. Repeat above steps until there is enough coolant in the loop so the pump is constantly fed -- so not running dry. Top-up the coolant with the pump running, no need to turn it on and off. Let the entire loop run for a few hours (or overnight) to cycle the air bubbles out of the loop. Top-up the coolant on last time.

You need to see if, when the game is running, it is using the iGPU off the i7=12700H or actually using the RTX 3050 Ti instead. Are you running off battery, or plugged into the charger? Are you able to monitor the CPU's frequency? Intel only lists the "maximum" or "up to" frequency for the i7-12700H. It might be hitting 90*C and throttling the CPU frequency down... from 4.7 GHz.... to like 2.7 GHz or something. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/132228/intel-core-i712700h-processor-24m-cache-up-to-4-70-ghz/specifications.html

You'll have to do a little bit of research / digging. From what I recall, I could be mistaken, the coolant used to fill AiOs has a specific chemical in it to prevent / significantly slow-down galvanic corrosion. Doing some quick reading, people are suggesting either options below....that is, after draining + flushing the old coolant out, and using completely new stuff. Also mixed views of whether or not to maintain it on a regular basis (i.e. drain + refill) like a typical custom "open loop." Diluted anti-freeze, like 70:30 or 75:25 distilled water to anti-freeze mixture Higher concentration of...EK-Cryofuel EK claims their EK-Cryofuel meet these standards. BS5117 ("Testing Corrosion Inhibiting, Engine Coolant Concentrate ('Antifreeze') Part 2: Methods of Test for Corrosion Inhibition Performance Section 2.3: Recirculating Rig Test") ASTM D1384 standards ("Standard Test Method for Corrosion Test for Engine Coolants in Glassware")

Your AiO is just the CPU, so it doesn't need much coolant, either the pre-mix or the concentrate (and then mix it yourself) will work. Keep in mind, they have a shelf-life date. IMO, use a concentrate like this.... 4-year shelf-life. You probably just need to do like a 10 mL biocide + 90 mL distilled water mix... Replace the coolant once a year. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-clear-concentrate-100ml

Which AiO are you using? Most AiO's are not meant to be disassembled / serviced... they are referred to "closed loop" coolers as so. I would not use anti-freeze as it is corrosive, and can/may eat at the plastics, etc, of the AiO. Most AiO OEMs use a Glycol mix, but you can also just use distilled water + anti-corrosion / anti-growth concentrate. Most people with custom loops, or known as "open loops" just use the latter (including me as well). Something like this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-clear-concentrate-100ml 100 mL mixes with 900 mL of distilled water.

The ASUS Z390-P unfortunately DOES NOT have the USB BIOS Flashback feature (i.e. update the BIOS without a compatible CPU -- headless BIOS update). You'll need to get a compatible 8th Gen CPU (i.e. Pentium, etc, will work) -- ASSUMING that IS the problem. What steps have you done to confirm that outdated / incompatible BIOS is possibly the cause? If you don't already have one, plug a "beep code" speaker onto the motherboard.

It's just because the current-generation Intel CPUs only provide: 16x PCI-E 5.0 lanes (i.e. graphics card) 4x PCI-E 4.0 lanes (i.e. NVMe M.2 SSD). 8x PCI-E 4.0 for communication between CPU and Motherboard chipset If you want to make use of a PCI-E 5.0 M.2 slot, the only option it to split the PCI-E 5.0 lanes.... AMD went with: 16x PCI-E 5.0 lanes (i.e. graphics card) 8x PCI-E 5.0 lanes (i.e. NVMe M.2 SSD, up to 2x SSDs at full 4x speed each) 4x PCI-E 5.0 for communication between CPU and Motherboard chipset