-rascal-

A little late now, but Sapphire made it so the fans on the Pulse and NITRO+ cards are serviceable / replaceable. You can remove the fans off the cooler with 1x screw, and order a new one. You hope people on eBay would properly test the cards, etc, but that's the situation sometimes with used resellers. Glad it finally worked out for you with the Sapphire 7800 XT.

Do you have multiple drives with Windows installed? Old SSD / HDD from old PC with Windows + New SSD/HDD with another image of Windows You can also set the boot priority / order within the BIOS. Make the drive with Windows to be the 1st priority.

It usually comes up with a message about WHY it's booting into the BIOS. Could be unstable overclock, boot order, etc.

Either the XFX MERC 310 ($919) or Sapphire Pulse ($929) is fine. Don't go by brand. Always go by the reviews, pricing, etc. All manufacturers will have models or GPU generations that will be up and down. PowerColor had some cooling issues with their RX 5700 series GPUs, but that was eventually fixed in the RX 6000 series onwards. XFX also had head issues when the introduced the "Thermal Ghost" and "THICC" coolers, but really turned it around with the more recent MERC design. ASUS had some overheating VRAM chips with their DirectCUII / ROG cards during the R200 / R300 series. I personally prefer Sapphire, but that doesn't stop me from using cards from Gigabyte, ASUS, etc. Absolutely no issues with my Gigabyte RTX 3060 Vision, though.

What CPU is your buddy using? The ~100 FPS looks like some sort of V-Sync / G-Sync or software FPS cap is enabled.

it mentions the TPM module on the motherboard webpage, and within the motherboard user manual. https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GC-TPM20_S#ov

Remove the CPU from the motherboard socket. Inspect the motherboard socket for any damage / bent pins. Inspect the bottom of the CPU for signs of scratches / damage.

CPU and GPU temperatures seems okay... Do you have Memory EXPO / XMP enabled in the BIOS? Are you running your games on Full Screen, or some other setting (i.e. Borderless, Windowed)? Motherboard BIOS up-to-date? How is your OS drive / storage drive (i.e. HDD, SSD, etc) configured?

Getting into the BIOS does not require any storage device. If the RTX 4070, along with the rest of the system is about one week old, just go through the retailer / e-tailer, and get it exchanged. Typically there is a 14-day or 30-day return/exchange policy before you have to go through the Manufacturer (i.e. Gigabyte)....at least here in the US / Canada.

First step, make sure the USB-C cable from the front of the case is plugged into the USB-C header on the motherboard. Double-check to ensure it's not loose, etc.

We'll have to do a bit of research, etc, to find out why... It depends on the laptop. Sometimes it better to use the Lenovo provided drivers, sometimes to use the ones Windows detects, while in some cases, better to use the AMD ones. Again, we need to know more about your laptop's details.

Okay, that's fine. What model Lenovo laptop? From the sounds of it, the A9-9425 APU was available on the IdeaPad. Do you have the mode number (i.e. 130-15AST), Should be on a Lenovo sticker on the bottom of the laptop, etc. The packaging of the "Corsair 3200 MHz" memory should have the model number. It should be even be on the sticker on top each memory stick. Looks something like this: Laptops *CAN* be finnicky with memory frequency / timings / voltages. The other thing is, the "stock" AMD drivers might not be 110% compatible with the laptop. It is generally better to use the drivers the laptop manufacturer (in this case, Lenovo) supplies.

The TruePower series was not really a high-end unit, even at the time of release. However, it was definitely better than some of the "650W" crap CoolerMaster, Thermalake, and even some other Antec models, available. It has a lot of cables because of it's non-modular design, support for multiple graphics cards. The "extra" Fan-only connectors are there because motherboards didn't have much fan headers back then. I had an Antec TruePower Trio 430W back in ~2009, powering an upgraded Acer pre-built, running AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ with an ATi Radeon HD 4850. It was like $30? from Fry's Electronics (when they were still around and pretty big). The "Can it run Crysis" era.

Welcome to the LTT forums. May you please give us some more information about the HARDWARE of the system? Is this a Desktop or Laptop? What CPU / APU? Motherboard brand and model? Memory kit brand and model? Etc? Are you mixing memory? Your old memory kit/stick + the new 16GB kit/stick? To install Windows, usually Secure Boot and TPM is required to be enabled. You may need to disable those to get MemTest86 to run correctly.

The i9-9900KF is not supposed to run at 5.0 GHz during an all-core load. That is, IF the motherboard is following Intel's specs / guidelines for Turbo Boost 2.0 e.g. the motherboard is not overriding any of the CPU behaviors (PL1, PL2, Tau), like what Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) is known to do. UP TO 5.0 GHz is only achieved when only ONE or TWO cores are active. That is only for a short duration -- we are talking about 10s of seconds at a time, so it does not violate the "95W" rating. 1 or 2 cores active: 5.0 GHz 3 cores active: 4.9 GHz 4 cores active: 4.8 GHz 5+ cores active: 4.7 GHz That said, if you are seeing a range 4.5 GHz ~ 4.7 GHz, and the 100*C temperatures, then the CPU is also likely affected by thermal throttling.

Yeah, the Memory Kit is Samsung B-die it looks like. The kit's DOCP / EXPO is DDR5-6000 CL40, and supposedly THAT won't run either... At this point, I think OP should either : Run at DDR5-5800 (or slightly higher with BCLK tuning?) and dial in the memory timings (i.e. Primary + Secondary + Tertiary, whole meal deal). Return the Corsair kit.

Your video confirmed that. NH-D15 vs Arctic Freezer II, the difference is 0*C ~ 3*C difference at 130W, depending on the fan speed %.

I ended up going for the Corsair 5000D Airflow, to replace my Phantek Enthoo Luxe T.G. The Lian-Li Lancool 3 was one of my considerations.... Only reason I did not go for it was because had potential fitment issues with 2x 360mm thick radiators + tall pump/reservoir. If you are just going for air-cooling, or AiO cooling, I would recommend the Lancool 3. It is also a very mechanically well designed chassis.

You have a pump that is constantly operating when the PC is active, for the most part, flow is not a problem. People do not typically run the pump a full speed, nor is lack of flow typically an issue. Permeation is not a concern for custom "open loop" systems. You have to maintain the loop on regular basis anyway (i.e. once or twice a year), so even if it permeates 5mL, you won't notice it. Also, with custom loops (vs AiO) you have some kind of coolant reservoir / distro plate. Tubing, is considered as consumable / wear item. At least for me, whenever I maintain the water cooling loop, I replace all the tubing with brand-new. Mind you, I use soft-tubing. If I need to pay 3x+ more for hydrophobic tubing...no thanks.

Check in the BIOS, is Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) enabled? I think MSi calls it 'Enhanced Turbo' ? It *MAY* be enabled by default, which CAN run the CPU out of Intel specs.

I also noticed the Rear I/O shield is NOT installed... The case (Zalman S2?) COMES with a user manual...that WILL TELL you what screws to use, etc. Please read the manuals... Next, make sure the front I/O (power, reset, etc) buttons are wired correctly. You need to look at both the Case and Motherboard manual for that. Power SW = PWR_BTN Power LED = PWR_LED (there are + and - wires) RESET SW = RESET HDD LED = HDD_LED (there are + and - wires)

@ItsPattyD Ryzen 2700X is a 8-core / 16-thread CPU, while the 5950X is 16-core / 32-thread. There is more cores = more heat generated, so not surprising the 5950X will have a lower Base Clock, so it conforms to the "105W" spec. For gaming purposes, and workloads / applications that can make use of the X3D V-Cache, the 5800X3D will outperform the 5950X. The 5950X has the 16-cores across two 8-core chiplets, so there is some performance loss due to communication between the two. If you need the additional cores, sure, get the 5950X. Otherwise, the 5800X / 5800X3D / 5700X3D over the 5900X / 5950X.

That is because your monitors are different resolutions. While you extend the display across three monitors, cursor can't go to where no pixels exist. Your option is to move align your monitors to the top...but you'll have this problem on the bottom. Or scale your Monitor 2 (4K one) to match Monitor 1 and 3....but you might / will end up with black bars or won't run at native 4K resolution.

The caddy / adapter is SATA, so the drive's performance is LIMITED by the SATA interface. Even if you get the world's fastest M.2 or mSATA SSD, it is still limited / throttled to ~550 MB/s sequential read/write. Could have just bought a native 2.5" SATA SSD in the first place...

Well, PCPartPicker is weird. It's telling you to: Convert the USB 3.1 Gen1 -> USB 3.1 Gen2 (i.e. USB-C) -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094R7PDM1 Convert an old USB 2.0 -> USB 3.1 Gen1 -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D58HBP/?th=1 However... some thing this seem to exist. USB 2.0 -> USB 3.1 Gen2 (i.e. USB-C). https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Internal-Header-Degrees-Adapter/dp/B0B5CHQ33W/ref=sr_1_9?crid=25Q9VJBH4237X&keywords=usb+2.0+to+usb+3.2+gen2&qid=1706230985&sprefix=usb+2.0+to+usb+3.2+gen2%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-9 If that works, then you just need one adapter. Native USB 3.2 Gen1 -> USB 3.2 Gen1 USB 2.0 -> USB 3.2 Gen2, using adapter. Third option to is convert PCI-E slot to USB 3.1 Gen2. Something like this...