-rascal-

Agreed. The P400A, I think was intended for single / dual AIOs, or air-cooling. It's too compact to do a FULL custom loop. Even in OP's photo, where will the pump/reservoir go? Mount it to the the opposite side of the front radiator? You can do a 360mm in the front, but you can't fit another 360mm at the top...looks like a thin 240mm max. I recently had to get a new case, because even the much bigger Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG can't support 2x 45mm thick 360mm radiators. Even with the 3.5" / 5.25" cage and support ripped out (the case is assembled with screws, not rivets), and it ain't going to work.

Motherboard does not have a ARGB header, so you cannot control the ARGB LEDs through the motherboard. However, you can just use the built-in controller + button on the case itself. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/montech-air-100-argb/

Wireless has definitely come a long way. I remember using this Microsoft 5000 Wireless back in the early 2000's. Hot garbage. You try to play Counter Strike and move + click the mouse too fast, it will disconnect / reconnect... I guess to much data. I still use a wired / wireless mouse at home, but I have a Logitech G903 for the office (don't ask me how that got approved), but I've tried it at home for some light gaming. It works helluva better than the Microsoft one. Got it at the start of the pandemic. Logitech G Pro X wireless headset at home works fantastic as well, been about ~2 years now. Previously used a Logitech G35 (still have it in storage) wired headset, and a Steelseries Siberia V2 before that. I don't really miss the cable getting caught on my chair's armrest or tangled under the wheels, when I need to get up to grab something within the room. I'm not like wandering into the bathroom or something... Keep in mind, the G903 and G Pro X headset both use Logitech's proprietary 2.4 GHz with it's own little USB dongle. I have headsets / earbuds / keyboard / mice that connect via BT; they are definitely not as good at the proprietary 2.4 GHz. The audio quality and syncing issues really kills it.

Okay...it took me a while to waddle my way through the wall of text. You may want to divide it up into smaller sections / paragraphs. The only way you can select a HIGHER resolution than your monitor supports, that I can think of, is if Virtual Super Resolution (VSR) is enabled. It is a setting within the AMD Adrenalin software. Essentially, the graphics card RENDERS at a higher resolution, and downscales it to your monitor's actual resolution. As a result, you get a sharper, higher quality image, but of course, more taxing on the GPU. If you are missing .NET or C++ patches, it can cause the AMD Adrenalin interface from popping up. If it's a new Windows 11 install, you might have to check if Windows is still downloading / installing updates in the background, and give it another reboot or two.

I doubt it is hacked / junky public work WiFi related. The water drop icon is when moisture is detected in / around the charge port -- this has been a Samsung feature since...waaay back (my brother's S6 had it). Put your phone on the bathroom counter, take a shower, and try to charge it. It will have the same warning. My Pixel 7 has something identical as well. Clean out the port, let it dry out, and try again.

1800X is going to have a VERY difficult time running DDR4-3200. Now, EVEN harder with 4x sticks compared to 2x sticks. Zen / Zen+ (i.e. Ryzen 1000 and 2000 series) had a weak Integrated Memory Controller (IMC). You may need to drop it down to DDR4-2933...or possibly as low as DDR4-2666. The white "Boot" LED, where it's not properly detecting a boot drive it a bit concerning.

This has been a problem since the introduction of RGB on PCs. Each brand having their own implementation of RGB... Corsair - iCUE, ASUS - Aura, Gigabyte - RGB Fusion, MSI - Mystic, etc. You have than multiple RGB software conflicting / fighting with each other. The ONLY real solution I've found use components that are either certified to work with say.... Corsair iCUE. Or have all your components use the "standard" 4-pin RGB / 3-pin ARGB header on the motherboard. None of this proprietary stuff.

I would say, spend the extra ~100 Euro and get the 5700X3D, if you must go for the socket AM4 platform. Keeping everything the same, it would bump the cost up to ~£1,183 You can save a little bit, and a higher-end board, by not getting a WiFi/BT motherboard...but that's your call if you NEED it or not. PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/pxYHjH CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X3D 3 GHz 8-Core Processor (£229.99 @ AWD-IT) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£45.00 @ Computer Orbit) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£109.00 @ Computer Orbit) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Xtreem ARGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£86.52 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card (£303.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Case: Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower Case (£129.00 @ Computer Orbit) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£130.40 @ NeoComputers) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit Speakers: Creative Labs Stage Air V2 10 W Speakers (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £1182.87 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-18 23:33 GMT+0000 Keep in mind, it is going to be EOL, since its replacement, socket AM5, has been around for sometime now. You can also change the CPU / Motherboard / RAM out, and get on socket AM5. At least this way, you have an upgrade path to Ryzen 8000 and potentially 9000-series. Ryzen 7600 MSi B650 Gaming Plus WiFi (if you need WiFi / BT) 32GB (2 X 16GB) Lexar Ares DDR5-5600 CL32 Will put you at £1190. PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4vf9L9 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor (£187.99 @ AWD-IT) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£45.00 @ Computer Orbit) Motherboard: MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (£149.00 @ Computer Orbit) Memory: Lexar Ares RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL32 Memory (£95.89 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card (£303.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Case: Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower Case (£129.00 @ Computer Orbit) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£130.40 @ NeoComputers) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit Speakers: Creative Labs Stage Air V2 10 W Speakers (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £1190.24 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-18 23:33 GMT+0000

18" laptops are pretty bulky / heavy. Unless you NEED the extra screen size. IMO, the bigger the laptop, the less "portable" it becomes. Also, both laptops are complete opposites of each other, so what is your purpose? The Lenovo ThinkPad P16 is a mobile workstation with a RTX Ada GPU, while the ASUS is a gaming laptop.

Those people are wrong. All the professional reviews shows the 7800X3D is more than capable of handling GPUs like the RTX 3090 Ti. It is one of the top-5 CPUs right now.

Corsair RM 650W (2023 model) - 85 Euro https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/GdwmP6/corsair-rm650-2023-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020280-na Be Quiet! Pure Power 12 M 650W - 85 Euro. https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/ZnTZxr/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn503 Fairly new power supply, but performs quite well. https://www.anandtech.com/show/21267/the-be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-650w-psu-review https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/10447/be-quiet-pure-power-12-750w-atx-3-0-80-plus-gold-psu/index.html https://www.guru3d.com/review/bequiet-pure-power-12-m-850w-atx30-psu-review/ ASUS Prime AP-750G - 90+ Euro However, too new PSU, I can't find any extensive reviews on it yet, but colour matches with your white graphics card... https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/zm7scf/asus-prime-ap-750g-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ap-750g

Price/budget? Country/currency? And website/store preference? A quality 550W ~ 650W would be more than plenty for the current specs. But if you are thinking ahead, and say want to eventually upgrade the CPU and GPU again later, 750W ~ 850W should be considered.

It's a junk PSU. Maximum of 36A on the single +12v rail. It's ~430W PSU at absolute peak, so realistically 380W continuous output. The "650W" rating is fake, and the lack of PCI-E cables, or even more Molex and SATA cables, shows that. It DOES NOT have ANY PCI-E power connections at all. I don't even know HOW you have a 6+2 PCI-E cable because the PSU doesn't physically have one. Cable extension, going to nowhere? The 4+4 connector is ONLY for the motherboard. The 8-pin motherboard connector is PINNED differently than a PCI-E 8-pin connector. You cannot split it. https://www.tecnoware.com/en-US/Dettaglio/Articolo/301 https://www.tecnoware.com/Downloads/ALIMENTATORI/FAL650FS12_ENG.pdf

How many M.2 slots are you thinking of needing in TOTAL? You can use all 4x M.2 slots at the same time, but some of the SATA ports will become unavailable. The bottom PCI-E 4.0 and 3.0 slots / lanes are unaffected. The top PCI-E 5.0 X16 slot and the second PCI-E 4.0 X4 slot is 4 standard expansion slots apart. The Noctua Edition appears to be 4.25- or 4.5-slot IS 4.3-slot thick, so that may will be a problem for the PCI-E 4.0 X4 slot. However, the ASUS TUF (3.5-slot) and MSi Gaming X (3-slot) shouldn't be a problem.

You disabled DOCP, and JUST set the Memory speed to DDR4-3600. You left the DRAM Voltage, Timings, etc, on Auto - Auto would use the default ~1.20V for DRAM Voltage. That Memory kit is rated at DDR4-3600 XMP with 1.35V DRAM Voltage. Re-enable DOCP again, and see what happens. 4x DIMMs would make it more difficult on the Integrated Memory Controller (IMC) compared to 2x DIMMs. You *MAY* need to manually set / bump up the SOC Voltage (1.10V ~ 1.125V).

They will all support it, but the lower end ones, to hit the target price bracket, will usually cut down on things like: Motherboard cooling (e.g. heatsinks) Fewer fan headers / RGB headers / USB headers / M.2 SSD slots Less features / less tuning options for overclocking Cheaper design on the VRM / power regulation The last point is the big one for more power hungry CPUs like the 5900X / 5950X. Under load, the motherboard may thermal throttle, because of the weaker VRM, and so the CPU will throttle its frequency.

The motherboards with built-in wireless networking has BOTH WiFi and Bluetooth, it's a combo. Even for something like a 5900X (I would recommend a 5800X3D or 5700X3D over a 5900X/5950X anyway) even a mid-tier B550 board will handle it. Interesting. I've got a wireless Xbox controller, but only used it as a wired controller. Agree, if you aren't sitting FAR away, just use the direct wired connection.

Are you are able to see the MSi BIOS logo and get into the BIOS? If you can, then the GPU *may* be fine, but once it starts to load into Windows, the Graphics / Chipset / Audio / LAN drivers starts to kick in. Where did that install of Windows 11 come from? If it has drivers for a completely different system, it will cause some start-up issues.

Is the USB drive formatted to FAT32? If you use any other format, it CAN fail to recognize the drive. You've already renamed the .ROM file. Using the correct USB port on the back. Is fine. It's telling you it is getting stuck at the BOOT step. No SSD or OS Boot drive detected. You need to have a Windows / OS installed on the WD SN805X to be able to BOOT into anything... If you haven't already, you need to create a installed media, and install Windows (or whatever OS you want to use).

As @Godlygamer23 suggested, test the M.2 SSD to make sure it is not faulty first. I was going to suggest updating the BIOS, since firmware version 1.52B is a factory installed BIOS from 2019. HOWEVER, AsRock DOES NOT recommend updating the BIOS to anything newer if using a Pinnacle Ridge (e.g. Ryzen 2000-series CPU). Also, AsRock provides a 'Storage QVL' list. I'm assuming it's updated regularly, because it lists quite a few PCI-E 3.0 and 4.0 NVMe SSDs. https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450Mac/#Storage

RAM "A" and "B" are from the same memory kit, just different sticks, right? Have yo tried using just RAM "A" in all slots? Yeah, I find that odd, indeed. When you said both RAM stick "A" and "B" works fine in another PC, that usually means the CPU / Memory slot on the motherboard could be the problem. The other thing is to run MemTest86+ for a number of hours (multiple passes) to see if it detects physical issues (e.g. faulty ICs) on RAM stick "B."

Okay... WHAT is the weird RAM situation? You haven't told us what problem / symptom you are running into...

Does the system run stable when using 'Optimized Defaults' ? If so, it is likely the DDR5-7200 RAM and with XMP enabled. The XMP frequency + timing is possibly too aggressive for the CPU to handle...you may need to dial the speed down. What power supply (make and model) are you using? Also, which CPU Cooler? Why is the system so..."unbalanced' per-se. i7-14900K with a GTX 1660 Super?

The +/-50mV would be due to VDROOP. Under certain circumstances / loads , the GPU would be pulling more current, causing the voltage to droop. Unlike CPU tweaking, you don't really have any user configurable Load-Line Calibration (LLC) on a graphics card. When AMD Adrenaline crashes / restarts, recovers and reverts to default values, that means it is unstable. It's not unstable enough for the system to crash, though. The drivers are able intervene and prevent that. The closer the chip is to ideal (e.g. 100% flawless chip), typically, the more optimal. So, better the silicon quality More stable voltage / less VDROOP Better change of undervolt / overvolt Able to achieve higher overclock Better temperatures etc... The damn thing with review samples, is they are sometimes "cherry-picked" by the manufacturer. They screen / bin for the best ones right at the factory. What you get at retail, "your mileage may vary" applies. It looks like 900 mV is a bit too aggressive for your particular card, so you may need to bump it up slightly...to 910 mV, or 925 mV, etc.

I don't know how the ProArt compared with the TUF cooler, but I found a review where it compares it with the StriX. Keep in mind, the review is on the RTX 4070Ti, not the RTX 40808 Super. The cooler is smaller, and I believe the fan profile is different, so it runs warmer, compared to the StriX. They also threw the MSi Gaming X Trio and Zotac Trinity RTX 4070Ti versions into the mix. You are paying for the ProArt design/theme.