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-rascal-

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Everything posted by -rascal-

  1. Factory/manufacturer warranty should go by purchased / invoice date - if you go through AMD / Intel. When I went to RMA my i7-6800K through Intel, they asked for my NCIX (yeah) purchase invoice, and they went by that date. Even though the warranty ended about a month prior, they still honored it. i7-6800K was EOL so Intel gave me a full MSRP refund - even though I bought on sale. I give Intel props for that. Knock on wood, having owned so many AMD and Intel CPUs, that was my very FIRST (hopefully only) CPU RMA experience.
  2. Are you talking about the power switch (I/O) on the BACK of the PSU? Why would you HOLD it in between I and O??
  3. What CPU is that? It looks like there is still Indium / factory solder on top of the die. You likely need to let the liquid metal sit for a bit longer before wiping it off.
  4. The memory frequency (DDR4-2666) appears to be fine. However, there is a possibly that the memory timings are mismatched vs the soldered 4GB. Especially for laptops with soldered memory, you would want to match the frequency, timings / latency, and voltage. You may need to take the 8GB stick back out first. Depending on how locked down the BIOS is, it may show the memory timings. Otherwise, you can use something like CPU-Z -> Memory or SPD tab. https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
  5. Yeah...i5-11400F does not, and cannot, physically hit 32 GHz. It max out a ~4.4 GHz out of the box. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/212271/intel-core-i511400f-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-40-ghz/specifications.html At such high frequency, you run into signal issues with the traces on the motherboard, and physical + electrical property issues of the transistors within the CPU itself.
  6. Clear / reset the CMOS or set the BIOS settings to default. My friend (last week?) finally upgraded his Ryzen 3600 to a 5800X3D we got for him for his birthday. He's running a B450 Arous Elite so he had to update the BIOS first. Similar symptoms as you.
  7. You can go just straight to 5001. If you are NOT using the USB BIOS Flashback method (e.g. plugging the USB stick in and updating through BIOS), you do not need to rename it. You have to rename it if using USB BIOS Flashback because the motherboard is in bare-to-the-bone-minimum "headless" mode. The XXXX.CAP IS the BIOS image. You don't have to use the BIOSRenamer tool... It is LITERALLY the same as YOU right-click -> Rename -> type in "SX570EG"
  8. For people NOT using their PC for gaming? Like...compiling and building FPGA code. At my workplace, we ditched our old @$$ dual-Xeon (2x 20-core CPUs) FPGA Build server for a 7900X build last year... HUGE difference. It will use ALL of the RAM, and ALL the Cores / Threads. We went from a total of 40-Cores to 12-Cores...but 12-cores from 2022+...and it still cut down our times by over HALF. A smaller FPGA build took ~17 minutes on the old Xeon set-up, new took ~8 minutes. If we go for a higher core count ThreadRipper, it would probably reduce us into the 1 ~ 2 minute (or even less!!) range...
  9. Update the BIOS first. You are using a REALLY old BIOS version. The best method, to minimize the chance of corrupting the motherboard, is by using the tried-and-trued method -> putting the BIOS file onto a USB flash drive. Updating it through internet or within Windows adds complexity, and more chances for things to go wrong. Some reminder tips: Download the latest BIOS file onto your PC / another PC / laptop. Unzip / extract the downloaded folder. Format a USB stick to FAT 32. Copy JUST the BIOS file (XXXX.CAP) onto the USB flash drive. As someone already mentioned, your higher-end motherboard has the USB BIOS Flashback feature. Even if you DO corrupt the BIOS, you can recover it.
  10. I don't know of the drivers will detect Time Spy as a "power virus" or "benchmark tool" rather than a game. If I remember correctly, it WILL recognize Furmark as a "power virus" and GPUs WILL NOT boost as high. If you want to tweak it a bit more, you'll have to start monitoring with GPU-Z or HWiNFO, etc. Monitor the GPU frequency, voltage, wattage, performance cap reason - GPU-Z has a 'PerfCap Reason' value. In this example, this GPU is hitting the Power Limit. List of possible reasons:
  11. That explains the wide frequency range; You can narrow down the range. Set the minimum to 2500 or 2600, and set the maximum to 2700. See how that goes.
  12. What are the minimum and maximum ranges you set to? If you set it to 2700 MHz for the maximum range, and you are getting ~2640 MHz, that's pretty good. Those two values are essentially telling the GPU to boost in between those ranges -- it doesn't command the GPU to run at max value. You probably need to dial the GPU Voltage up for ~2770 MHz. Considering stock Boot is up to ~2491 MHz, ~200 MHz bump is pretty good. Present day GPUs, both nVidia and AMD, will Auto-Boost itself as high as possible (within the range you set) if conditions allow. The boost frequency will vary from application/game to another, just because how the GPU is utilized is different.
  13. Antec doesn't specify how the fans are powered / controlled in the details. Reviews show the 3x front fans are SATA powered, so the fan speed cannot be controlled - they run at full speed. The rear fan is uses a standard 3-pin header, so that is powered + controlled by the motherboard. You already purchased the case....why can't you just open up the system and look??
  14. Prioritize based on your usage / projected use case. More cores is NOT always a good thing. i9-14900KS can pull 400W. On it's own. The drawback with more cores is usually higher heat density / concentration, so harder to keep cool. Also, the sustained boost clocks can be lower, again more cores, more heat. Depending on the application, how they are coded / optimized, more cores =/= faster. That's why, for an example, the 7800X3D (8-core / 16-thread) beats the 7950X (16-core / 32-thread) in gaming scenarios.
  15. Are running an air cooler or an AIO? An air / tower cooler will help circulate around around the CPU and NVM SSD area... Some motherboard's have a plastic film over the thermal pad on NVMe SSD heatsink. Did your TUF B650 have any of that, and if so, did you remove it? The review here shows the NM710 should run pretty cool for the most part. It's a pretty efficiency SSD. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/lexar-nm710-1-tb/8.html Otherwise, you may consider getting an aftermarket NVMe heatsink. Make sure you get a good / decent one, though. Some of the crap on Amazon / Ali-Express are junk.
  16. NONE of AMD or Intel's current CPUs runs at base speed, unless idling on Desktop with JUST Spotify running or something. Otherwise, they will run at the "up to" Boost whenever it can. i5-14600KF will basically hover around 4.7 GHz ~ 5.1 GHz for it's entire life. Same with the Ryzen 7600X.
  17. What motherboard + case are you using? How is the overall system airflow? What are your system specs? I looked at your old posts, and I couldn't get any of that info.
  18. Agreed. The P400A, I think was intended for single / dual AIOs, or air-cooling. It's too compact to do a FULL custom loop. Even in OP's photo, where will the pump/reservoir go? Mount it to the the opposite side of the front radiator? You can do a 360mm in the front, but you can't fit another 360mm at the top...looks like a thin 240mm max. I recently had to get a new case, because even the much bigger Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG can't support 2x 45mm thick 360mm radiators. Even with the 3.5" / 5.25" cage and support ripped out (the case is assembled with screws, not rivets), and it ain't going to work.
  19. Motherboard does not have a ARGB header, so you cannot control the ARGB LEDs through the motherboard. However, you can just use the built-in controller + button on the case itself. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/montech-air-100-argb/
  20. Wireless has definitely come a long way. I remember using this Microsoft 5000 Wireless back in the early 2000's. Hot garbage. You try to play Counter Strike and move + click the mouse too fast, it will disconnect / reconnect... I guess to much data. I still use a wired / wireless mouse at home, but I have a Logitech G903 for the office (don't ask me how that got approved), but I've tried it at home for some light gaming. It works helluva better than the Microsoft one. Got it at the start of the pandemic. Logitech G Pro X wireless headset at home works fantastic as well, been about ~2 years now. Previously used a Logitech G35 (still have it in storage) wired headset, and a Steelseries Siberia V2 before that. I don't really miss the cable getting caught on my chair's armrest or tangled under the wheels, when I need to get up to grab something within the room. I'm not like wandering into the bathroom or something... Keep in mind, the G903 and G Pro X headset both use Logitech's proprietary 2.4 GHz with it's own little USB dongle. I have headsets / earbuds / keyboard / mice that connect via BT; they are definitely not as good at the proprietary 2.4 GHz. The audio quality and syncing issues really kills it.
  21. Okay...it took me a while to waddle my way through the wall of text. You may want to divide it up into smaller sections / paragraphs. The only way you can select a HIGHER resolution than your monitor supports, that I can think of, is if Virtual Super Resolution (VSR) is enabled. It is a setting within the AMD Adrenalin software. Essentially, the graphics card RENDERS at a higher resolution, and downscales it to your monitor's actual resolution. As a result, you get a sharper, higher quality image, but of course, more taxing on the GPU. If you are missing .NET or C++ patches, it can cause the AMD Adrenalin interface from popping up. If it's a new Windows 11 install, you might have to check if Windows is still downloading / installing updates in the background, and give it another reboot or two.
  22. I doubt it is hacked / junky public work WiFi related. The water drop icon is when moisture is detected in / around the charge port -- this has been a Samsung feature since...waaay back (my brother's S6 had it). Put your phone on the bathroom counter, take a shower, and try to charge it. It will have the same warning. My Pixel 7 has something identical as well. Clean out the port, let it dry out, and try again.
  23. 1800X is going to have a VERY difficult time running DDR4-3200. Now, EVEN harder with 4x sticks compared to 2x sticks. Zen / Zen+ (i.e. Ryzen 1000 and 2000 series) had a weak Integrated Memory Controller (IMC). You may need to drop it down to DDR4-2933...or possibly as low as DDR4-2666. The white "Boot" LED, where it's not properly detecting a boot drive it a bit concerning.
  24. This has been a problem since the introduction of RGB on PCs. Each brand having their own implementation of RGB... Corsair - iCUE, ASUS - Aura, Gigabyte - RGB Fusion, MSI - Mystic, etc. You have than multiple RGB software conflicting / fighting with each other. The ONLY real solution I've found use components that are either certified to work with say.... Corsair iCUE. Or have all your components use the "standard" 4-pin RGB / 3-pin ARGB header on the motherboard. None of this proprietary stuff.
  25. I would say, spend the extra ~100 Euro and get the 5700X3D, if you must go for the socket AM4 platform. Keeping everything the same, it would bump the cost up to ~£1,183 You can save a little bit, and a higher-end board, by not getting a WiFi/BT motherboard...but that's your call if you NEED it or not. PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/pxYHjH CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X3D 3 GHz 8-Core Processor (£229.99 @ AWD-IT) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£45.00 @ Computer Orbit) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£109.00 @ Computer Orbit) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Xtreem ARGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£86.52 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card (£303.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Case: Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower Case (£129.00 @ Computer Orbit) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£130.40 @ NeoComputers) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit Speakers: Creative Labs Stage Air V2 10 W Speakers (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £1182.87 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-18 23:33 GMT+0000 Keep in mind, it is going to be EOL, since its replacement, socket AM5, has been around for sometime now. You can also change the CPU / Motherboard / RAM out, and get on socket AM5. At least this way, you have an upgrade path to Ryzen 8000 and potentially 9000-series. Ryzen 7600 MSi B650 Gaming Plus WiFi (if you need WiFi / BT) 32GB (2 X 16GB) Lexar Ares DDR5-5600 CL32 Will put you at £1190. PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4vf9L9 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor (£187.99 @ AWD-IT) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£45.00 @ Computer Orbit) Motherboard: MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (£149.00 @ Computer Orbit) Memory: Lexar Ares RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL32 Memory (£95.89 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card (£303.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Case: Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower Case (£129.00 @ Computer Orbit) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£130.40 @ NeoComputers) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit Speakers: Creative Labs Stage Air V2 10 W Speakers (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £1190.24 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-18 23:33 GMT+0000
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