-rascal-

Weird that the XMP profile is 2 MHz off of DDR4-3600 (1800 MHz). If you have a decent motherboard, DDR4-3600 (or 3596 in your case) should be possible - no need to drop it down to a lower frequency.

The case supports up to 344 mm GPUs. The front case fans are mounted on the outside of the case, not on the inside. You'll have enough space, don't worry.

Were you running ONE monitor and now TWO, or just switched one of the HDMI ports to DP? RX-580 should be new enough to have a "0 dB" or "0 RPM" mode. The fans don't kick on until the GPU reaches a certain temperature (e.g. commonly 60*C).

Those three screws should be there to help hold the rear I/O plate on. It should not cause the ports to stop working... And why are THOSE screws missing anyways?

Why does OP need a graphics card with DDR4 video memory? RX-570 uses GDDR5 Video Memory; again, you are NOT restricted by the System Memory type. e.g. just because System Memory is DDR4, does not mean you need to use a Graphics Card with matching memory type (DDR4). You can use and AMD R9-Fury that uses stacked HBM Memory type if you wanted...

More modern cards, including your RTX 2070, has a "0 dB" mode. The fan does not spin up until the GPU, typically, hits 60*C+. Once the temperature drops below 60*C, the fans will shut off again. I'm wondering, whatever you are doing it causing the GPU to ramp up the GPU Core frequency / GPU Memory frequency / GPU utilization, making the temperatures jump; therefore, the fan to spin up. @PDifolco suggested, you can try replacing the thermal paste on the GPU. The other thing is to disable the "0 dB" mode. If your RTX 2070 has a dual BIOS mode, one is usually "quiet mode" and another is "performance mode." Switch it to the "performance mode" BIOS. Otherwise, you'll either need to go through MSi AfterBurner (or whatever manufacturer software your GPU usages) to disable it and set a custom fan curve.

You can see the number of Cores / Threads are the same between the i5 and i7. The i5 is scoring better because of the higher Base / Boost clock. The other thing is, Intel is f#ckin' around with the brand naming. Moving forward, it won't be i9 / i7 / i5 / i3 anymore. You can have an "Ultra 5" that is higher in spec than an "Ultra 7." https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/details/processors/core-ultra/products.html Given the specs, power rating, architecture, etc, it's not surprising the Ultra 5 135UL scores higher.

No, if you don't buy a "Fuyao Factory" PSU, it should have the STANDARD safety features built into it...over-current protection, over-voltage protection, etc. If you draw more power than what the PSU can output, the PSU should shut down, not explode. A quality 850W should be more than enough, not necessary to get such as high wattage.

Yeah, motherboard is perfectly fine. Unless, you want to get something like a 450W+ i9-14900K... What do you mean "best quality / FPS"? In WHAT games? How many FPS are we talking about? 144+? 360+? What resolution are you using? 1440p? 4K? It's like saying I want the "best car". All you really need is a GPU and potentially CPU upgrade. What GPU / CPU to get depends on your end goal, and what you are trying to achieve.

What are you trying to achieve? Are your FPS not enough to your standards? What applications / games you are running that you feel you need upgrade? What is your monitor resolution? RTX 3060 / 3060 Ti is capable of running 1440p at mid-high settings - not max / Ultra of course. That system is still plenty powerful; all you really need to do is upgrade the GPU for the most part. You can swap the CPU to a 14th Gen i5-14600K/KF or i7-14700K/KF.

For a the love of god, but the socket cover on. I doubt the light scratches on the audio section of the motherboard would cause the system fail through P.O.S.T. or booting into the OS. I'd be checking for: Bent pins in the CPU socket Damaged M.2 or SATA ports (depending on the type of HDD/SDD she's using) Damaged PCI-E X16 slot / pin(s) Poorly connection cables Improperly seated Memory stick(s)

System memory (DDR4) does not impact what type of Video Memory (GDDR#) the Graphics Card uses. You'll have to see if there is a later BIOS revision or see if other owners were are able to successfully get a UEFI supported/required GPU working with that exact board. I was not able to find any sort of motherboard manual or support documents...

Green would be the required, red is more optional. ASRock Motherboard Utility is their tuning software. Phantom Gaming 2.5G Ethernet monitoring / customization software - software on top of the drivers. ASRock PolyChrome is their RGB LED control software.

We suggested to use HWinFO for more accurate readings, but sure... https://www.hwinfo.com/download/

Both the BIOS are the same. One acts as a back-up, in case your corrupt the other one...either through modding the BIOS or some other freak accident.

If you are going to be moving, editing, encoding/decoding, saving 4K video files...you are NOT going to have a good experience with a slow ~150 MB/s spinning HDD. You are going to spend more time WAITING / LOADING, than working. You may want to consider: NVMe SSD as a scratch disk / working storage xxTB HDD for cheap mass storage

What motherboard are you using? Likely, disabling (it's usually Enabled by default) Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) should keep the CPU power within Intel rated spec.

I've been using Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut Extreme my water-cooling build for ~3 years now. I haven't had issues with drying out...that said, I do semi-annual maintenance on my loop, so old paste is cleaned off a new paste it put on every 6 ~ 8 months. Regardless, the top-5 or top-10 pastes are like 2*C ~ 3*C off from each other. It's not going to make a HUGE difference, unless you need something very specific. MX-2 is rather old...and I would not use paste that's been sitting for too too long. I've had good luck with MX-4 (and still have a tube that's a few years old). Supposedly the MX-6 is quite a bit better.

Make sure you have the WiFi drivers installed for your motherboard, too. You can get all your drivers / software from MSi's website. https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B650-TOMAHAWK-WIFI/support#driver

Factory/manufacturer warranty should go by purchased / invoice date - if you go through AMD / Intel. When I went to RMA my i7-6800K through Intel, they asked for my NCIX (yeah) purchase invoice, and they went by that date. Even though the warranty ended about a month prior, they still honored it. i7-6800K was EOL so Intel gave me a full MSRP refund - even though I bought on sale. I give Intel props for that. Knock on wood, having owned so many AMD and Intel CPUs, that was my very FIRST (hopefully only) CPU RMA experience.

Are you talking about the power switch (I/O) on the BACK of the PSU? Why would you HOLD it in between I and O??

What CPU is that? It looks like there is still Indium / factory solder on top of the die. You likely need to let the liquid metal sit for a bit longer before wiping it off.

The memory frequency (DDR4-2666) appears to be fine. However, there is a possibly that the memory timings are mismatched vs the soldered 4GB. Especially for laptops with soldered memory, you would want to match the frequency, timings / latency, and voltage. You may need to take the 8GB stick back out first. Depending on how locked down the BIOS is, it may show the memory timings. Otherwise, you can use something like CPU-Z -> Memory or SPD tab. https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

Yeah...i5-11400F does not, and cannot, physically hit 32 GHz. It max out a ~4.4 GHz out of the box. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/212271/intel-core-i511400f-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-40-ghz/specifications.html At such high frequency, you run into signal issues with the traces on the motherboard, and physical + electrical property issues of the transistors within the CPU itself.