-rascal-

Lower the timings/latency, the better. However, you want a balance of high frequency and low latency. You are not going to be able to run such high frequency like DDR5-8400 without manually tweaking and overclocking the memory. You might not even GET 8400 MHz to work and have to settle with something between 6000 ~ 7200 MHz. You are not going to see significant FPS gains from ~6000 MHz vs 8400 MHz. It doesn't scale linearly. What's up with 48GB vs 96GB? Get the capacity that you need. If you can find something like DDR5-6400 ~ DDR5-7200 with CL30 / CL32, that would be the "sweet spot."

Oh, you're right, it doesn't have support for the older sockets (yet?). Okay, prices are a little different in Finland. Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120 EVO is pretty good. For 31 euro. https://fi.pcpartpicker.com/product/zrP8TW/thermalright-assassin-spirit-120-evo-689-cfm-cpu-cooler-as120-evo If from that specific website... Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120 - 29.90 Euro - https://hinta.fi/4147237/thermalright-assassin-spirit-120 Deepcool AG400 (either white or black) - 29.90 Euro - https://hinta.fi/3694694/deepcool-ag400-a-rgb / https://hinta.fi/4310271/deepcool-ag400-wh-argb

Correct, LGA 2011 and LGA 2011-v3 use the same mounting patterns. A budget CPU cooler should be able to handle the E5-2680 v4. I had a CoolerMaster Hyper 212EVO cooling a mildly overclocked i7-6800K @ 4.0 GHz all-core (stock rated TDP is already 140W) What country in the EU are you from / shopping from? The new Arctic Freezer 36 and under 30 Euros is quite good.

Warzone has a memory leak issue, I don't think they have ever resolved that, and over time, will try to allocate / use up more VRAM than physically available. Of course, then the FPS will start to tank, and stutter over time. There are documented adjustments / fix about changing values within the adv_options.ini file. Things to change: VideoMemoryScale RendererWorkerCount

I'm wondering if has anything to do with the locked-down / limited BIOS control of the Lenovo motherboard...

Loading into Windows, loading applications, games, etc. That is on the storage drive. Spinning HDD's are snail slow compared to modern SSDs - even a SATA3 2.5" SSD.

You still need the proper LGA 1700 mounting plate, don't you? Even if you use the original LGA 1700 backplate. The jet plate and inset is to optimize water pressure and flow through the cold plate. LGA 1700 is more of a rectangular socket, rather than square (vs LGA 115x and 1200). I would recommend you try the LGA 1366 configuration (I1 + J1).

That's the purpose of the C-states. When the CPU is idle, it doesn't need to run at maximum boost speed, so it drops the multiplier to save power. You can't really do much about that with a H81-based motherboard. Turbo Boost should also be short bursts and/or not always at max. If the CPU runs at 3.8 GHz constantly, it will violate the "80W" spec.

Your loose cables are in the way.

They exist, even 3-to-1 and 6-to-1 splitters. Just some examples (since I'm using the 3-way splitters myself). https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d-rgb-6-way-splitter-cable https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-d-rgb-3-way-splitter-cable

I'm trying to understand what happened. You transferred your system into a NEW case. Installing the fans (new or old?) but they have 2 extra pins..? Something wrong when installing the (new or old)? CoolerMaster 240mm AIO..? You plugged things in, turned on the power, and the smell of burned electronics Can you give us a URL/link or the brand + model of fans you have? Can you give us a URL/link or the brand + model of the AIO you have? All the fan headers on the motherboard are 4-pin (PWN control) fan headers. I don't see any headers/connectors on the motherboard that are 2-pin. I'm thinking you may have plugged the RGB / ARGB connecter from the fan / AIO into the wrong place. That may have damaged the fans / AIO / or the headers on the motherboard. Please answer the above questions, so we have more information.

I personally, would not go back to acrylic, because of the whole scuffing part. Even when just trying to clean it. If it's inexpensive, you could use the acrylic panel until the tempered glass comes back in-stock.

You will have to check what settings are available under the Q-Fan menu within the BIOS. It might just use the CPU temperature as reference for fan speed control. I know on my Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master, you can select via a drop-down menu which fans to reference which temperature point. E.g. I can have CPU_FAN + OPT_FAN + CHA_FAN1 to be controlled based on CPU temperature. CHA_FAN ~ CHA_FAN5 controlled by PCI-E X16 slot temperature.

A little late now, but Sapphire made it so the fans on the Pulse and NITRO+ cards are serviceable / replaceable. You can remove the fans off the cooler with 1x screw, and order a new one. You hope people on eBay would properly test the cards, etc, but that's the situation sometimes with used resellers. Glad it finally worked out for you with the Sapphire 7800 XT.

Do you have multiple drives with Windows installed? Old SSD / HDD from old PC with Windows + New SSD/HDD with another image of Windows You can also set the boot priority / order within the BIOS. Make the drive with Windows to be the 1st priority.

It usually comes up with a message about WHY it's booting into the BIOS. Could be unstable overclock, boot order, etc.

Either the XFX MERC 310 ($919) or Sapphire Pulse ($929) is fine. Don't go by brand. Always go by the reviews, pricing, etc. All manufacturers will have models or GPU generations that will be up and down. PowerColor had some cooling issues with their RX 5700 series GPUs, but that was eventually fixed in the RX 6000 series onwards. XFX also had head issues when the introduced the "Thermal Ghost" and "THICC" coolers, but really turned it around with the more recent MERC design. ASUS had some overheating VRAM chips with their DirectCUII / ROG cards during the R200 / R300 series. I personally prefer Sapphire, but that doesn't stop me from using cards from Gigabyte, ASUS, etc. Absolutely no issues with my Gigabyte RTX 3060 Vision, though.

What CPU is your buddy using? The ~100 FPS looks like some sort of V-Sync / G-Sync or software FPS cap is enabled.

it mentions the TPM module on the motherboard webpage, and within the motherboard user manual. https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GC-TPM20_S#ov

Remove the CPU from the motherboard socket. Inspect the motherboard socket for any damage / bent pins. Inspect the bottom of the CPU for signs of scratches / damage.

CPU and GPU temperatures seems okay... Do you have Memory EXPO / XMP enabled in the BIOS? Are you running your games on Full Screen, or some other setting (i.e. Borderless, Windowed)? Motherboard BIOS up-to-date? How is your OS drive / storage drive (i.e. HDD, SSD, etc) configured?

Getting into the BIOS does not require any storage device. If the RTX 4070, along with the rest of the system is about one week old, just go through the retailer / e-tailer, and get it exchanged. Typically there is a 14-day or 30-day return/exchange policy before you have to go through the Manufacturer (i.e. Gigabyte)....at least here in the US / Canada.

First step, make sure the USB-C cable from the front of the case is plugged into the USB-C header on the motherboard. Double-check to ensure it's not loose, etc.

We'll have to do a bit of research, etc, to find out why... It depends on the laptop. Sometimes it better to use the Lenovo provided drivers, sometimes to use the ones Windows detects, while in some cases, better to use the AMD ones. Again, we need to know more about your laptop's details.

Okay, that's fine. What model Lenovo laptop? From the sounds of it, the A9-9425 APU was available on the IdeaPad. Do you have the mode number (i.e. 130-15AST), Should be on a Lenovo sticker on the bottom of the laptop, etc. The packaging of the "Corsair 3200 MHz" memory should have the model number. It should be even be on the sticker on top each memory stick. Looks something like this: Laptops *CAN* be finnicky with memory frequency / timings / voltages. The other thing is, the "stock" AMD drivers might not be 110% compatible with the laptop. It is generally better to use the drivers the laptop manufacturer (in this case, Lenovo) supplies.