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-rascal-

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Everything posted by -rascal-

  1. They exist, even 3-to-1 and 6-to-1 splitters. Just some examples (since I'm using the 3-way splitters myself). https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d-rgb-6-way-splitter-cable https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-d-rgb-3-way-splitter-cable
  2. I'm trying to understand what happened. You transferred your system into a NEW case. Installing the fans (new or old?) but they have 2 extra pins..? Something wrong when installing the (new or old)? CoolerMaster 240mm AIO..? You plugged things in, turned on the power, and the smell of burned electronics Can you give us a URL/link or the brand + model of fans you have? Can you give us a URL/link or the brand + model of the AIO you have? All the fan headers on the motherboard are 4-pin (PWN control) fan headers. I don't see any headers/connectors on the motherboard that are 2-pin. I'm thinking you may have plugged the RGB / ARGB connecter from the fan / AIO into the wrong place. That may have damaged the fans / AIO / or the headers on the motherboard. Please answer the above questions, so we have more information.
  3. I personally, would not go back to acrylic, because of the whole scuffing part. Even when just trying to clean it. If it's inexpensive, you could use the acrylic panel until the tempered glass comes back in-stock.
  4. You will have to check what settings are available under the Q-Fan menu within the BIOS. It might just use the CPU temperature as reference for fan speed control. I know on my Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master, you can select via a drop-down menu which fans to reference which temperature point. E.g. I can have CPU_FAN + OPT_FAN + CHA_FAN1 to be controlled based on CPU temperature. CHA_FAN ~ CHA_FAN5 controlled by PCI-E X16 slot temperature.
  5. A little late now, but Sapphire made it so the fans on the Pulse and NITRO+ cards are serviceable / replaceable. You can remove the fans off the cooler with 1x screw, and order a new one. You hope people on eBay would properly test the cards, etc, but that's the situation sometimes with used resellers. Glad it finally worked out for you with the Sapphire 7800 XT.
  6. Do you have multiple drives with Windows installed? Old SSD / HDD from old PC with Windows + New SSD/HDD with another image of Windows You can also set the boot priority / order within the BIOS. Make the drive with Windows to be the 1st priority.
  7. It usually comes up with a message about WHY it's booting into the BIOS. Could be unstable overclock, boot order, etc.
  8. Either the XFX MERC 310 ($919) or Sapphire Pulse ($929) is fine. Don't go by brand. Always go by the reviews, pricing, etc. All manufacturers will have models or GPU generations that will be up and down. PowerColor had some cooling issues with their RX 5700 series GPUs, but that was eventually fixed in the RX 6000 series onwards. XFX also had head issues when the introduced the "Thermal Ghost" and "THICC" coolers, but really turned it around with the more recent MERC design. ASUS had some overheating VRAM chips with their DirectCUII / ROG cards during the R200 / R300 series. I personally prefer Sapphire, but that doesn't stop me from using cards from Gigabyte, ASUS, etc. Absolutely no issues with my Gigabyte RTX 3060 Vision, though.
  9. What CPU is your buddy using? The ~100 FPS looks like some sort of V-Sync / G-Sync or software FPS cap is enabled.
  10. it mentions the TPM module on the motherboard webpage, and within the motherboard user manual. https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GC-TPM20_S#ov
  11. Remove the CPU from the motherboard socket. Inspect the motherboard socket for any damage / bent pins. Inspect the bottom of the CPU for signs of scratches / damage.
  12. CPU and GPU temperatures seems okay... Do you have Memory EXPO / XMP enabled in the BIOS? Are you running your games on Full Screen, or some other setting (i.e. Borderless, Windowed)? Motherboard BIOS up-to-date? How is your OS drive / storage drive (i.e. HDD, SSD, etc) configured?
  13. Getting into the BIOS does not require any storage device. If the RTX 4070, along with the rest of the system is about one week old, just go through the retailer / e-tailer, and get it exchanged. Typically there is a 14-day or 30-day return/exchange policy before you have to go through the Manufacturer (i.e. Gigabyte)....at least here in the US / Canada.
  14. First step, make sure the USB-C cable from the front of the case is plugged into the USB-C header on the motherboard. Double-check to ensure it's not loose, etc.
  15. We'll have to do a bit of research, etc, to find out why... It depends on the laptop. Sometimes it better to use the Lenovo provided drivers, sometimes to use the ones Windows detects, while in some cases, better to use the AMD ones. Again, we need to know more about your laptop's details.
  16. Okay, that's fine. What model Lenovo laptop? From the sounds of it, the A9-9425 APU was available on the IdeaPad. Do you have the mode number (i.e. 130-15AST), Should be on a Lenovo sticker on the bottom of the laptop, etc. The packaging of the "Corsair 3200 MHz" memory should have the model number. It should be even be on the sticker on top each memory stick. Looks something like this: Laptops *CAN* be finnicky with memory frequency / timings / voltages. The other thing is, the "stock" AMD drivers might not be 110% compatible with the laptop. It is generally better to use the drivers the laptop manufacturer (in this case, Lenovo) supplies.
  17. The TruePower series was not really a high-end unit, even at the time of release. However, it was definitely better than some of the "650W" crap CoolerMaster, Thermalake, and even some other Antec models, available. It has a lot of cables because of it's non-modular design, support for multiple graphics cards. The "extra" Fan-only connectors are there because motherboards didn't have much fan headers back then. I had an Antec TruePower Trio 430W back in ~2009, powering an upgraded Acer pre-built, running AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ with an ATi Radeon HD 4850. It was like $30? from Fry's Electronics (when they were still around and pretty big). The "Can it run Crysis" era.
  18. Welcome to the LTT forums. May you please give us some more information about the HARDWARE of the system? Is this a Desktop or Laptop? What CPU / APU? Motherboard brand and model? Memory kit brand and model? Etc? Are you mixing memory? Your old memory kit/stick + the new 16GB kit/stick? To install Windows, usually Secure Boot and TPM is required to be enabled. You may need to disable those to get MemTest86 to run correctly.
  19. The i9-9900KF is not supposed to run at 5.0 GHz during an all-core load. That is, IF the motherboard is following Intel's specs / guidelines for Turbo Boost 2.0 e.g. the motherboard is not overriding any of the CPU behaviors (PL1, PL2, Tau), like what Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) is known to do. UP TO 5.0 GHz is only achieved when only ONE or TWO cores are active. That is only for a short duration -- we are talking about 10s of seconds at a time, so it does not violate the "95W" rating. 1 or 2 cores active: 5.0 GHz 3 cores active: 4.9 GHz 4 cores active: 4.8 GHz 5+ cores active: 4.7 GHz That said, if you are seeing a range 4.5 GHz ~ 4.7 GHz, and the 100*C temperatures, then the CPU is also likely affected by thermal throttling.
  20. Yeah, the Memory Kit is Samsung B-die it looks like. The kit's DOCP / EXPO is DDR5-6000 CL40, and supposedly THAT won't run either... At this point, I think OP should either : Run at DDR5-5800 (or slightly higher with BCLK tuning?) and dial in the memory timings (i.e. Primary + Secondary + Tertiary, whole meal deal). Return the Corsair kit.
  21. Your video confirmed that. NH-D15 vs Arctic Freezer II, the difference is 0*C ~ 3*C difference at 130W, depending on the fan speed %.
  22. I ended up going for the Corsair 5000D Airflow, to replace my Phantek Enthoo Luxe T.G. The Lian-Li Lancool 3 was one of my considerations.... Only reason I did not go for it was because had potential fitment issues with 2x 360mm thick radiators + tall pump/reservoir. If you are just going for air-cooling, or AiO cooling, I would recommend the Lancool 3. It is also a very mechanically well designed chassis.
  23. You have a pump that is constantly operating when the PC is active, for the most part, flow is not a problem. People do not typically run the pump a full speed, nor is lack of flow typically an issue. Permeation is not a concern for custom "open loop" systems. You have to maintain the loop on regular basis anyway (i.e. once or twice a year), so even if it permeates 5mL, you won't notice it. Also, with custom loops (vs AiO) you have some kind of coolant reservoir / distro plate. Tubing, is considered as consumable / wear item. At least for me, whenever I maintain the water cooling loop, I replace all the tubing with brand-new. Mind you, I use soft-tubing. If I need to pay 3x+ more for hydrophobic tubing...no thanks.
  24. Check in the BIOS, is Multi-Core Enhancement (MCE) enabled? I think MSi calls it 'Enhanced Turbo' ? It *MAY* be enabled by default, which CAN run the CPU out of Intel specs.
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