-rascal-

Yup I think PCPartPicker made a mistake. The motherboard has: The case has: 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 (e.g. USB-C) cable 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 cable You shouldn't need an adapter...

Essentially, yes. A higher-end Gen3 or Gen4 SSD with more storage over a Gen5 SSD with lower capacity. Also, Gen5 SSDs can run HOT when you push it. Gen3 and Gen4 typically runs cooler. Checking local pricing for me... A Gen5 Crucial T700 2TB is $529, the 4TB model is $899.99... Gen4 WD SN850X 2TB is $234.99 and 4TB is $434.99 Gen4 (tier below the SN850X) WD SN770 2TB is $189.99...

If you are just chasing for faster load times, going from Gen3 -> Gen4 -> Gen5 is not going to be noticeable faster. Going from HDD -> any form of SSD (even a SATA3 SSD) is a VERY significant change. In the chart @Electronics Wizardy linked, the Crucial T700 is a Gen5 NVMe SSD. The WD SN580 is a lower-end Gen4 NVMe SSD. The difference is 0.9s. You are not going to see... 33s vs 5s.

Either go up to the 6800XT (or better), or as someone already mentioned, 7800XT or 7900 GRE.

List is set to private; we cannot see it.

If the motherboard is not able to pull GPU temperature information, then you cannot use that to control the GPU AIO fans - some motherboards CAN. You would need to have some sort of temperature detection + fan control within the Windows / OS environment, rather than in the BIOS firmware. Normally, the GPU will report the temperature through the drivers / MSi Afterburner, etc. Then it controls the fan header on the GPU. In you case, the GPU fan header doesn't do anything now.... As some have mentioned, you can try FanControl. https://www.argusmonitor.com/?language=en Another software you can look into is Argus Monitor. https://www.argusmonitor.com/?language=en

Correct, the higher the refresh rate, the MORE data is coming out through the GPU. Just to give you an idea...a table pull from Wiki.. From the RTX 4090 spec page....and the fine print.

The total bandwidth / resolution limit across the display outputs IS a thing. nVidia GPUs, RTX 4000-series included, have a similar limitation as well. Otherwise....you can have... people trying to run 16K 240Hz+ across multiple monitors.

That's fine; everything looks good from here so far. You're on BIOS version 4604. Ryzen 5600X is recognized. All 16GB of RAM is there. It's telling you to go into BIOS by pressing F1. First-time setup.

Are you able to get a photo or tell us what the American Megatrends screen say? Does it recognize there is a Ryzen 5600X in the motherboard? Make sure all the necessary power cables are plugged in (e.g. 8-pin CPU power, any PCI-E power cables the Video Card needs, etc). Ryzen 5600X is not supported until the BIOS firmware is updated to version 2904 or newer.

I'm confused...why do you need to ADD a separate WiFi card, then the ASUS Prime-B760M-A AX COMES with a WiFi + BT combo?? It has the antennas included with the motherboard... The WiFi card won't work because it is a different M.2 key type. The motherboard supports M.2 Key M only. The WiFi card is M.2 Key E.

Is the UPDATED ASUS TUFVG27AQL1A available in your region? The Cooler Master looks like to be decent, though nothing special. For sub-$300 the GM2711S, that's not bad. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cooler-master-gm27-fqs-review https://www.tomshardware.com/monitors/gaming-monitors/cooler-master-gm2711s-gaming-monitor-review

I've tried EK's opaque / "Sold White" coolant in the past -- once. It didn't clog the CPU block, etc, but the pigments did fall out of suspension. It looks like they eventually got it sorted out, according to people online. Used their Cryofuel Clear concentrate (with the occasional use of their dyes) and so far, no issues since I started water-cooling in ~2016(?). Absolutely agree though, their pricing has shot up over the years. I'm running a full EK loop right now, but may really look into Alphacool (or other alternatives) products now. Getting things shipped to Canada isn't cheap - even through the resellers / retailers in Canada, rather than direct.

Weird that the XMP profile is 2 MHz off of DDR4-3600 (1800 MHz). If you have a decent motherboard, DDR4-3600 (or 3596 in your case) should be possible - no need to drop it down to a lower frequency.

The case supports up to 344 mm GPUs. The front case fans are mounted on the outside of the case, not on the inside. You'll have enough space, don't worry.

Were you running ONE monitor and now TWO, or just switched one of the HDMI ports to DP? RX-580 should be new enough to have a "0 dB" or "0 RPM" mode. The fans don't kick on until the GPU reaches a certain temperature (e.g. commonly 60*C).

Those three screws should be there to help hold the rear I/O plate on. It should not cause the ports to stop working... And why are THOSE screws missing anyways?

Why does OP need a graphics card with DDR4 video memory? RX-570 uses GDDR5 Video Memory; again, you are NOT restricted by the System Memory type. e.g. just because System Memory is DDR4, does not mean you need to use a Graphics Card with matching memory type (DDR4). You can use and AMD R9-Fury that uses stacked HBM Memory type if you wanted...

More modern cards, including your RTX 2070, has a "0 dB" mode. The fan does not spin up until the GPU, typically, hits 60*C+. Once the temperature drops below 60*C, the fans will shut off again. I'm wondering, whatever you are doing it causing the GPU to ramp up the GPU Core frequency / GPU Memory frequency / GPU utilization, making the temperatures jump; therefore, the fan to spin up. @PDifolco suggested, you can try replacing the thermal paste on the GPU. The other thing is to disable the "0 dB" mode. If your RTX 2070 has a dual BIOS mode, one is usually "quiet mode" and another is "performance mode." Switch it to the "performance mode" BIOS. Otherwise, you'll either need to go through MSi AfterBurner (or whatever manufacturer software your GPU usages) to disable it and set a custom fan curve.

You can see the number of Cores / Threads are the same between the i5 and i7. The i5 is scoring better because of the higher Base / Boost clock. The other thing is, Intel is f#ckin' around with the brand naming. Moving forward, it won't be i9 / i7 / i5 / i3 anymore. You can have an "Ultra 5" that is higher in spec than an "Ultra 7." https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/details/processors/core-ultra/products.html Given the specs, power rating, architecture, etc, it's not surprising the Ultra 5 135UL scores higher.

No, if you don't buy a "Fuyao Factory" PSU, it should have the STANDARD safety features built into it...over-current protection, over-voltage protection, etc. If you draw more power than what the PSU can output, the PSU should shut down, not explode. A quality 850W should be more than enough, not necessary to get such as high wattage.

Yeah, motherboard is perfectly fine. Unless, you want to get something like a 450W+ i9-14900K... What do you mean "best quality / FPS"? In WHAT games? How many FPS are we talking about? 144+? 360+? What resolution are you using? 1440p? 4K? It's like saying I want the "best car". All you really need is a GPU and potentially CPU upgrade. What GPU / CPU to get depends on your end goal, and what you are trying to achieve.

What are you trying to achieve? Are your FPS not enough to your standards? What applications / games you are running that you feel you need upgrade? What is your monitor resolution? RTX 3060 / 3060 Ti is capable of running 1440p at mid-high settings - not max / Ultra of course. That system is still plenty powerful; all you really need to do is upgrade the GPU for the most part. You can swap the CPU to a 14th Gen i5-14600K/KF or i7-14700K/KF.

For a the love of god, but the socket cover on. I doubt the light scratches on the audio section of the motherboard would cause the system fail through P.O.S.T. or booting into the OS. I'd be checking for: Bent pins in the CPU socket Damaged M.2 or SATA ports (depending on the type of HDD/SDD she's using) Damaged PCI-E X16 slot / pin(s) Poorly connection cables Improperly seated Memory stick(s)

System memory (DDR4) does not impact what type of Video Memory (GDDR#) the Graphics Card uses. You'll have to see if there is a later BIOS revision or see if other owners were are able to successfully get a UEFI supported/required GPU working with that exact board. I was not able to find any sort of motherboard manual or support documents...