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Astro16

Member
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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Profile Information

  • Interests
    Sci-fi. Science. Occult Tidbits. Doobies. Tech. Gaming. Travel. Food. Conspiracies. Mystery. Adventure. DeepSpace.
  • Biography
    Medical undergraduate. Pursued tech instead. CCNA, RedHat Certified. I live inside a cave and I don't know what's going on out there.

System

  • CPU
    i5-6600K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte H110N
  • RAM
    G.Skill Aegis 2400MHz 16Gb (2x8Gb) CL15 @ 2133MHz
  • GPU
    Asus Strix GTX 1060 OC
  • Case
    Fractal Design Nano S
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 Evo 120Gb, WD Blue 500Gb, Toshiba 320Gb (enclosure)
  • PSU
    Cooler Master ThunderM 620w
  • Display(s)
    AOC E2370Sh
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212X
  • Keyboard
    MSi MK-9132
  • Mouse
    A1Tech AM01
  • Sound
    Edifier R101PF
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Astro16's Achievements

  1. Wow. thanks for your help. I'll do a little more research how I would install the fan with the 1st link you gave and whether if the pin is compatible. It does look so much the same. Even the mounting bracket. Thank you. You are a good sir. I will have to verify if accidentally breaking a blade on the fan voids my warranty. If I so ever reassemble it not sure if my retailer would notice it if I replaced it. Seems like I can simply remove the shroud and install it and it doesn't seem my retailer had put a sticker in those parts where I can unscrew the shroud. Thank you again. I'm finally relieved.
  2. oh okay. just new here. thanks. well, I only have 1 spare fan which has a lower cfm but higher rpm. plus the one I have on my 212x, since it came with an extra bracket I asked. Wanted consult first before putting the other fan on the sync as an additional fan.
  3. Thanks for your inputs, so in a tower cooler it would theoretically be better if I place a higher CFM fan at the front/intake then the lower CFM one as exhaust? Makes sense, in that scenario, how should I set the rpms then? which one should be faster? Is it safe to assume the back/exhaust fan should be faster?
  4. Guys I badly need help with this one. So I was remounting my gpu (Asus Strix OC GTX 1060) because it was sagging and one of the blades of the middle fan caught the the corner of the PSU (itx case with a full ATX PSU). I'm using Fractal Design Define Nano S. Boom. Poor me. Poor Strix. Damn this life. One blade broke off. I tested the card. It was fine. I wouldn't want to glue it. No changes with the temp performance fortunately. Still at 65 - 74 degrees running Witcher 3 custom Ultra at 1080p. Most of the other games still run at mostly 61 degrees at Ultra 1080p. Nothing is wrong with the performance. The fan is still spinning, no noises, still quiet AF. But it's been difficult living knowing one blade broke off. I contacted Asus, but they said they don't sell replacement parts and just directed me to their service centers (local retailers) and from where I bought it. Seems like I may have voided my warranty after just having the card for a month. And I'm not even sure if I will be able to get any help from my retailer, still waiting for their reply. I live in the expensive PC hardware realm of the Philippines. Any of you guys know where can I get hold of that specific fan with an Asus logo? And what means/steps should I do to acquire one out from Asus and from my retailer if any? In case they can't help me. I looked at ebay and the results seemed dim for me. Will really appreciate if you can help me figure the most plausible way I can replace that just one fan.
  5. Is there a diminishing return if I put 2 fans with different CFMs? Let's say a hyper 212x, I'll use a frostflow (if that's what the stock fan is called) as push and a 2200rpm rated fan as pull will lower CFM then place them vice versa. Or should 2 fans match each other's CFM? And one more thing should the exhaust fan at the rear side of the case needs to be faster to dissipate the heat out of the case? I noticed most fans that come with cases have slower rpms.
  6. Here are my specs: CPU: i5-6600K Cooler: Hyper 212X running @ 2.5PWM per degrees C, max load temps don't go beyond 49C MOBO: Gigabyte H110N - will be upgrading when I can. RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2 sticks of 2400MHz 8Gb, running @2133MHz because of the mobo GPU: Asus Strix GTX 1060 OC SSD: 840 Evo 120Gb HDD: WD Blue 500Gb 32Mb cache PSU: CM ThunderM 620W Case: Define Nano S w/ 4 fans The ram speeds and ram capacities are read correctly. I did notice something, I re-flashed the bios and seems like I got faster single core performance, not sure why is that. Before I re-flashed the bios, I was getting 1600+ score in single thread performance in CPUID which I didn't save, but now I got 1817. I referenced it with another 6600K during the 1600+ run and after re-flashing the bios. I guess that was just the problem. Goodness I wouldn't want RMA or go back to the store to replace it since I just had my mobo replaced since they gave me a board that has 2 bent pins and a RAM slot that isn't detecting any RAM. http://valid.x86.fr/6z7vty
  7. Does RAM speed affect single core performance? Or is this a bad chip?
  8. I managed to fix the black lock screen! Unfortunately for the bootscreen8boot doesn't work in win10 even when running it in compatibility mode. is this perhaps the way to install in legacy mode? doesn't say here there's a way to do just that in the bios before installation or during setup. https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hardware/commercialize/manufacture/desktop/boot-to-uefi-mode-or-legacy-bios-mode
  9. Hi all, I've been wandering around Google for hours now and still haven't found any solution or work around to my problem. I've fresh installed Windows 10 on a new system. Specs: i5-6600K, 8Gb, GTX1060, 620W PSU, H110 motherboard. I've set up pretty much everything but after I restarted I noticed my boot logo (where the Windows 10 logo would show up with those circling dots) was changed to Gigabyte's Ultra Durable logo. I've read you'll have that if you boot Windows as UEFI and not Legacy. So I tinkered it a bit. Changed it from UEFI to Legacy in the bios but it didn't change. I saw some ways to change the boot logo but all I've seen only works if the boot mode in MSINFO32 equals to Legacy not UEFI. However, even after changing the boot mode in the bios as Legacy that didn't change what's in MSINFO32. I don't know how that exactly works so I'm turning to you more knowledgeable folks. Anyway I can revert the legacy boot logo from Gigabyte's ugly Ultra Durable boot logo? Also when I press Windows + L and lock my desktop and goes to the screen where you have the time and supposedly a picture from Microsoft will display, I'm only getting a black screen with the Time and other stuff set from Settings. The photo only appears when you click on it when your username and Sign in button is displayed. I would really love not to Reset Windows. Thanks in advance for your help.
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