Kalm_Traveler

it is 100 mm x 100 mm standard VESA mount. As far as your light bleed... without seeing yours in person, this model and the Acer version using the same panel are both known for a decent amount of light bleed. I've had a PG348Q for about 3 years now, and while it works great, there is definitely some blotchy uneven backlight bleed and clouding on all-dark screens. I think that is just a panel quirk- never seen one of these that didn't have any. On the flip side, this new LG 38" has none, and comparing them side by side looks almost perfectly uniform on blacks. Hurray for technology advancements!

I had the HAF X until a few weeks ago. It has screw holes for a 240mm radiator but you can (and I did) mount a 360mm AIO up there, but the front most 120mm won't have support so technically it will sag slightly. You can keep the 200mm fans above it but supposedly that actually hurts the cooling performance compared to just leaving them out entirely.

I have a thread about this from a few weeks ago

yeah I just set up a pfSense machine for router/firewall/IDS/IPS/DNS/DHCP, separated my basement renters to their own VLAN on a separate (bandwidth limited to 100mbps) wifi AP. Going to start changing wifi passwords every 6 months, etc. Started working in infosec about a year and a half ago, and almost done with my bachelors degree in it. Absolutely mind-blowing how easy people make it to be compromised.

yeah I was sad to find that out about the Hydro Copper block for this Kingpin card flipping a 420mm around for fittings on the back side... if I moved the rear exhaust fan down as far as it can go... I think the problem was that the tank sticks out too far so the bracket can't fit into the case. That was the same reason I had to flip it around on the front - if you attach it with the ports on the bottom, that side sticks down too far so the bracket can't be installed because the tank hits part of the frame. Now that you've got me thinking about it I may double check and just see. There is room behind the motherboard tray to run soft tubing and I would really like to have the additional 140mm of both cooling and top fan for aesthetics! I'll take a look tomorrow morning and if it seems doable I'll let you know as well as order another 420mm HWLabs radiator for up top. Already have the Corsair fan since my original plan had been to do 3 of the fans up top, with a 240mm radiator as bottom intake.

yep... so many options for nosey people to sniff your wifi traffic. There are always going to be varying degrees of risk no matter how secure you think you are, but I figure why leave any low-hanging fruit for my neighbors?

I have a 420 on the front, and just measuring I don't think I'd be able to reach the fittings with another one on top (front has to have the ports at the top, top radiator would need them up front as well as far as I can tell - also why I put this 280mm oriented that way). I might try to make it work anyway but for now this seems to be working well enough. I do want a full cover block, but EVGA only sold them for a couple months earlier this year, and doesn't seem to have any intention of another run. Reading on overclock.net 's forums it seems they had problems leaking which might have contributed to the short run, but in any case I can't buy one now. Bykski recently released a full cover block for the Kingpin card though, so I'm probably going to give it a try since the memory chips are getting a bit toasty for comfort without anything directly cooling them.

I always run ethernet wherever possible... more secure lower latency more reliable not at the mercy of neighbors possibly crowding wifi radio space generationally faster There's nothing inherintly wrong with using wifi if you really can't run ethernet, but it is functionally not as good for the above mentioned reasons. Wifi is more convenient, since it doesn't require running cabling and allows for devices that move around a lot (phone, tablet, laptop).

iCUE doesn't see the the fans independently like that. You need to configure the LED channel with type and number of devices (fans in your situation) connected, then configure the lighting for that channel.

The best I've heard (and owned) were the Oppo PM-1 planar magnetic cans. I was driving them with Oppo's HA-1 DAC/amp and every FLAC I through at them sounded absolutely phenomenal. That being said, that was a super expensive setup and my ears are too big to comfortably fit inside the ear cups so I ended up selling both for what I bought them for new. side note, the only other 'audiophile' ish gear I have are the Massdrop (Sennheiser) HD6xx and (AKG) K7xx cans, with Schiit Fulla 2 DAC/amp and Mayflower Electronics ARC DAC/ADC/amp. If I'm being completely honest either combo of those is a much better value than the Oppo setup. It (Oppo gear) undeniably sounded better, but not 600% better, maybe 50% better at most.

so funny story... December 5, 2019: pre-ordered a 9900ks from Amazon, with "guaranteed delivery by December 20th 8pm" December 21, 2019: email received and order status changed with unknown ETA, "we need a little more time to give you a delivery date" December 27, 2019: email received with 'new estimated delivery date: February 3, 2020" No thanks Amazon... they accepted more pre-orders early this morning according to nowinstock.net yet can't even fulfil existing pre-orders on time from 3 weeks ago. Needless to say, I am cancelling the $582 + tax pre-order from them and have reordered for a cheaper price from a shop in California that shows a handful of these actually in stock ready to ship. *crossing fingers* since this build is still 3 things away from being completable, 9900ks (swapping out this 9700k), bottom 'cooling bracket' for bottom intake fans - from Cooler Master whenever they turn their USA store back on, and of course custom proper-length PSU cables probably from CableMod since there's a coupon included with Asus motherboards and they are decent quality.

yep, EVGA in general is a solid AIB partner brand, and the XC2 Ultra is one of their higher models anyhow

The variation between most of the models except for those few top-tier with more power inputs is very small - but technically yes better cooler models will give a very tiny improvement in performance over worse models.

They're all super similar except for the Kingpin, Galax HOF, etc versions with 3 PCI-E 8-pin power input connectors which can potentially boost a bit higher with proper cooling since they aren't as power-limited as the normal cards with only 2 PCI-E 8-pin inputs. Your XC2 Ultra is a solid performer for sure, even as is out of the box.

Somehow Corsair sent me the necessary RGB controller literally a day after Christmas (I ordered it two days ago!) so the Commander Pro is in use, pump and fans are lit up. Also I managed to get the case lighting to work correctly as well as fix the front panel toggle switches. Luckily the problem was just that the main cable connecting the front panel to the built in controller device was just loose in the front panel. I may glue it in place so it doesn't come out again. Now I need to order some custom PSU cables since these included cables are mostly much too long, then final cable management can happen. Also need to install some UV LED strips to show off the UV fluid, and Cooler Master needs to get their parts site working again so I can order that cooling bracket for bottom intake fans. Also, although the EK Supremacy VGA block is keeping the gpu itself nice and cool, the memory chips are getting a bit toasty under benchmark load (seen them hitting 83c) even with little copper heatsinks so I'm debating picking up a Bykski full cover block. Don't really "need" the OLED screen but it would be nice to keep it.

ah maybe I misunderstood - I thought he was saying that the guest network was not separated (working as intended) which I as attributing to the dumb switch since it will send all traffic across itself without any segregation from VLANs.

Just throwing this out there while I troubleshoot, but this case has a built-in little fan controller / LED controller kind of like a Corsair Commander Pro (except that this actually runs the ARGB instead of needing yet another box to do that). The front panel IO area has two toggle switch things to adjust fan speed, and LED operation (switch between color modes, or set to motherboard sync). The controller also has a USB motherboard connector for 'firmware upgrades' according to the manual. Anywho, for a yet-unknown reason, the LEDs all seem to work but the front panel buttons do not. They're supposedly supposed to be lit up which they are not nor do they change the LED behavior. The front panel control cable is definitely connected to the controller, and I tried unplugging its two SATA power plugs to 'reset' it, but still nada. Unsure if the fan thing would work since I'm running all the fans directly from motherboard fan headers. Given this testing, would you guys agree that the controller or front panel seems faulty?

sounds reasonable. I don't think any unmanaged (dumb) switch can read VLAN tags so they essentially don't exist on those switches

I didn't realize it was that big of a difference until noticing that the very top of all the graphics benchmarks were 2080 Ti's, with Titan RTX's being near the top but never THE top. In any case, seemed pretty interesting to me to see it for myself in person. This KP card isn't modded, isn't on the fully unlocked BIOS, etc, but just clocks higher right out of the box.

The numbers speak for themselves, but basically this is exactly what I've theorized all year - the TU102 is ultimately power limited on the Titan cards more than the Kingpin or Galax HOF 2080 Ti cards because they have 3 8-pin power input connectors, where the Titan has only the standard 2. Even with my shunt mod on the Titans for a theoretical max power limit of ~ 434 watts, this Kingpin card just sails right passed it. Mind you this is with the Nvidia OC Scanner's OC VF curve on both, so fairly similar situation. If anything I think my room is actually a bit hot tonight compared to that 9900k + Titan RTX run from February (HEDT's ambient temp sensor is reporting 24 C in here at the moment). TLDR; (that I wish I understood last year) Unless you need 24gb VRAM per card, even if you have the money - buy the Kingpin 2080 Ti, not the Titan.

I had one for my last Christmas 9900k + Titan V (then Titan RTX) rig. It has a weak VRM, relative to most other Z390 boards, but I had no problems with a daily 5.2ghz all core OC. However, given the heat those poor VRMs generate, it wouldn't surprise me to see failures after a while (I only had the rig together for 7 months). Now that I'm making a new gaming rig, I went for the Maximus XI Extreme because it has a better VRM config and better VRM cooling.

Minor hiccup - I had planned on a 420mm radiator in the front and a 240mm on the bottom so both would pull in cold air, but the Corsair HX1200 PSU I have for this (left over from previous builds - plus with OC'ing the 9900ks and cranking this Kingpin 2080 Ti I might actually pass 850w use at full tilt) is so long that there's just no way to fit a 240 down there. Given that I don't want to skimp on cooling, I opted to pick up a 280mm and will put it on the top which doesn't look ideal but that's the best compromise I felt possible. The bottom will have 3x Noctua NF-A12x25's as intake to hopefully offset any temp increase from the top radiator technically pulling up pre-heated air from the front radiator. Side note there - Cooler Master has puzzled/disappointed me a bit with what's included in the box of a $400+ case. The case itself it gorgeous and well constructed but what's odd is that they include 4 really terrible 140mm fans (probably the same ones they include on their cheapest of cases), and while they bundle a different back panel plate in case you want to rotate the motherboard tray for a different orientation, they do NOT include one of the radiator/fan mounting brackets needed to have fans/radiators on all 3 possible locations - only 2 - so out of the box you can have fans/rads on only 2 of 3 top/front/bottom. This means that to 'finish' the build I need to buy a ~$8 cooling bracket from them to be able to install those bottom fans. Not a huge annoyance but given the cost I would rather have no included garbage fans, and include that bracket.

They will both run at the slowest common speed.

Depending on how you have those case fans connected, maybe, but probably not. I've never seen a zero RPM mode for fans in a motherboard BIOS yet - but you also didn't say which Z370 motherboard you have so we can't check the user manual for you. If it does have a zero RPM mode for case fans, then yes you could do that.

you as well! May tech-Santa bring you many fun toys!