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Dylanc431

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    AMD FX8320 Black Edition
  • Motherboard
    ASUS 970 Pro Gaming (Aura)
  • RAM
    16GB 1600MHz DDR3
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GTX 1050Ti
  • Case
    Phanteks P400S (white)
  • Storage
    256GB Samsung SSD, 1TB Hitachi HDD
  • PSU
    Antec VP700P
  • Display(s)
    20" Iiyama Prolite E2008HDS
  • Cooling
    2 intake fans, 1 exhaust, Noctua NHU-14S
  • Keyboard
    Magicforce Smart 68 Key Mech. (Outemu Brown Switch)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G203 Prodigy
  • Sound
    Turtle Beach Earforce XOFOUR
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64 Bit

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  1. Hey all, not sure if this is the correct topic to post this in, but I'm having some trouble with the controller tracking of my Quest 1 when in use with SteamVR. When using the headset as a standalone device, the controllers track perfectly, playing beat saber works flawlessly! I stand in the same place in my room when I'm using the headset in either mode. my headset is connected to my PC via a front panel USB 3 connection, and in the Oculus program the connection test shows 1.8Gbps of bandwidth. When I connect to SteamVR I start to get tracking issues, the controllers fly away and float around at awkward angles. It doesn't really happen when no interactions are happening with the controller, but as soon as I start pressing buttons the controllers freeze in place and fly away. Something like shooting a gun makes the hands go insane. My Graphics card shouldn't have an issue with running VR (RX6800) and I was having the exact same issue on my RX580. Is there anything that could be possibly causing this? Thanks all!
  2. check your power to the graphics card, maybe try a different PSU if possible? I had some strangeness with my RX6800 when I first installed it where I could only get a picture if I plugged 1 monitor in, maybe try running the system with just a single monitor? if all else fails it might be time to RMA the motherboard or graphics card (check that in another system first)
  3. Hey all, Hope we're all having a good day. I'm looking for recommendations for a KVM switch to accommodate both my Personal and Work computers/monitors. Essentially, my current setup needs to be shared between 2 computers. So 1 keyboard/mouse, 3 monitors (2 Displayport, 1HDMi), my gaming rig which has 1 HDMi and 2 DP + my work PC which has just 2 DP ports. I'm not too worried about price, but obviously the less it costs the better, and preferably from an Irish/UK site. Thanks!
  4. Hey all, I'm finally upgrading my old FX based system at last, and while the system itself fits my current Phanteks P400S quite nicely, My cooler (Noctua NH-U14s) is too tall to have the side panel on with. (I bought it in 2017, when I didn't actually check the width of the case). So, I'm looking for a case that will accomodate the cooler, 1 SSD, 2 HDDs, mATX motherboard and an RX580 Red Devil. Budget is around the 100 euro mark. Though for a good one I don't mind paying slightly extra. I'm not adverse to it including some case fans or a nice PSU, though I'm re-using the PSU from my old build and fans if needs be. I'm also a fan of having a window and if it has RGB I wouldn't say no either. Much appreciated, Thanks EDIT: Current case width is 210mm, so I'd be looking at cases with a width of at least 215-220mm+
  5. Hey folks, So my partner is at my house at the moment, she has her laptop. Whenever it's plugged into the mains (Irish 3 pin plug) and we touch, I get a buzzing sensation in my hands. Unplug the laptop, or lift my feet (taking away the ground reference) it stops. We've never had this at her house, and my laptop doesn't do it. I'm curious, is it my house? The laptop PSU or something else? It sounds like a ground loop to me, but suggestions are welcome. The laptop in question is a ThinkPad T440p. Mine is an Acer Aspire of some description.
  6. Hey guys, Thanks for all the suggestions. I don't actually use a microfilter with my connection, Vodafone installed a faceplate with built in filtering when they installed their fibre service here. In terms of getting a new router I will need to research this more as Sky use a slightly different connection protocol than other providers here in Ireland. So some routers are apparently blocked from working on their network. I unfortunately upgraded an existing package so I don't know how my grace period is affected, I probably don't have my 14 day window to change providers... They're charging about the same price as all other providers in my area, but they're faster and claimed to be more reliable, if this is the case for many other customers there's a chance I have a case against them for ComReg (Communications Regulator).
  7. Hey all, I'm having an issue with my newly installed Sky Broadband. I have an FTTC connection, getting about 80-90Mbps down and roughly 18-20 Mbps up. However, it seems my router is just randomly dropping connection for all devices on wifi. I have already tried some basic troubleshooting steps to no avail. Here's what I've tried already: Tried turning thr outer off and on again. Tried using a new RJ11 cable from the master socket. Split the network into seperate 2.4 and 5GHz bands. The dropouts happen regardless of what band you're connected to. I plan to contact the ISP tomorrow morning. We only have this connection about 3 days. It's running through the same line as our old Vodafone internet connection. We had an engineer come out and do something in the cabinet to change us over. The router we are now using is the Sky Q Hub (ER115), we also have a Sky Q Box (1Tb) in the living room. When the dropouts occur the router shows no sign of an error, no lights change colour or flash. The old router worked perfectly, had no dropouts or anything but was much slower for some reason. (Huawei HG658c). I'm basically looking for potential other troubleshooting steps or questions I can ask the person over the phone. Much appreciated! Thanks
  8. TL:DR: Android security update caused my phone to shit itself, be careful of some software updates and their risks. This post is mainly a rant and/or warning about the latest Google security update rolling out for Nokia devices (this same issue could be the case with all Android One devices). My device in question was the Nokia 7 Plus. My phone automatically downloaded the January 2019 update but I decided not to install it because I was simply too lazy to restart my phone and watch it update for 5 minutes. I'm kind of glad I decided not to in the end because when the phone took matters into its own hands it went pear-shaped. I got into the shower and left my phone on the shelf outside the bathroom as always and just before I went in i heard a short "bzz" and saw the white "Android One" boot screen, I thought "oh, no big deal, at least I don't have to sit and watch it update". came out of the shower to see the phone still on that screen. I picked it up and realized the phone was somehow in "Download Mode". I thought I might have just left it on the power and volume rocker by accident. Tried rebooting... No avail, power+vol up... No avail. I bring the phone upstairs and plug it in. I start up adb+fastboot. I try forcing the phone into recovery mode: boot loop I get the dreaded message: "Can't load Android System. Your data may be corrupt. if you continue to get this message you may need to perform a factory data reset and erase all data from the device". this bit is mainly for the more programming oriented of you: SUPPORTED API: 3 BOOT REASON: enableFilecrypto_failed I eventually gave in and hit the Erase all Data button... I'm now sitting on the Welcome screen of the phone, incredibly pissed off... Hope this warning helps someone out there.
  9. I get this on both my AMD based tower and my Intel based laptop. Sounds like coil whine but at a much lower volume and higher pitch. Does it seem to "flare up" when you type or move your mouse? And does it affect audio equipment you plug in nearby? As far as I'm aware it's nothing to worry about.
  10. Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to get the android 9.0 update on my Huawei P20 (UK Model C782) due to being stuck on android 8.1. I'm going the route of using Firmware Finder to look up compatibility between my device and the firmware, finding the most recent firmware (9.0.0) then getting the download via the eRecovery feature on the phone and downloading it through a DNS server I have running on a mobile hotspot on my PC. This all works perfectly up to the point of actually downloading the firmware, but it comes up with version 8.1 as opposed to 9.0.0. I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or is there any sort of known issue with the incorrect version being listed in the program? Thanks in advance, Dyan.
  11. Still under a grand! and it matches the black theme I'm going for next (White stuff gets WAYYY TOO DIRTY) Thanks for the suggestions!
  12. I'm liking it! The one thing that might marr re-using the case is that I think i may have lost the standoffs (I've had this case a long while now) so unless the mounting pattern on that ASRock board is the exact same as the Asus board I have now I may need to look at a new case.
  13. Hey guys and gals! This is my first post in this topic because I feel like I need some suggestions on this build. PCPartPicker etc gives me an information overload! Anyways, the system! 1. I'm based in Ireland, so sites that use Euros as their currency are ideal for me. I can't order from the USA due to customs in Europe and please bear in mind that sites that use GBP as their currency such as Amazon.co.uk will be a bit more expensive for me due to currency conversion. 2. I essentially want to use this build as a bit of a "do-it-all" 1080p Gaming system (I do have the intent of getting another monitor in the future, but becuase my main one is pretty big it suits me fine for gaming as of right now). I also plan to use this system as an Audio Production/DAW workstation, but I don't need audio equipment factored into the budget because I already have an interface etc... The games I play most tends to be some simulator titles such as ETS2, Cities:Skylines and some Train Sims, mixed in with some E-sports titles such as CS:GO and other, more intensive games such as Arma3. 3. I don't really NEED to purchase any peripherals with this build as I do have some stuff already but I mean, if you can factor in a nice MX Blue equipped keyboard and a nice mouse into the budget, then I won't say no! 4. I'm really upgrading because I enjoy the entire process of building PC's and seeing something I made with my own hands come to life. My last build was a long time ago so I figure it's time for an upgrade after that. My current system has some things I could possibly re-use for this build, such as the CPU Cooler (Noctua NHU-14S), Samsung SSD and Hitachi HDD. But I think the rest needs to go due to being based on the AMD 970 Chipset which is literally a space heater at this point. if you need the specs of my current system they can be found on my profile. Thanks in advance!
  14. Hey guys and gals. I got a Huawei P20 a few days ago and after setting it up and putting nova launcher on it (because I desperately want that hardware with stock android...). I noticed the battery is draining particularly fast. As a test last night I charged the phone up to 97% charge, then turned the phone off and left it off my bed. This morning I turned the phone on at 7 a.m and the phone has somehow lost 12% battery overnight, while turned off? I went along with my day because I didn't have a particularly busy one ahead and as of 3 p.m today my phone had drained to about 30%. During the train ride home which is about 20 Minutes and a 10 minute walk, the phone had managed to drain to 10%. I'm so confused... The only app I've been using a lot has been Spotify, but I have the music quality set to normal on streaming mode. This is extra confusing because my Nokia 7 Plus that I had before the P20 absolutely destroys it on battery performance... Is there a known issue with Spotify draining the battery? Is there anything I can do to fix this other than bringing the SuperCharger with me?.. Thanks in advance. Dylan.
  15. There's not that much difference to speak of, the CPU still peaks at about 55C under load, which for an FX series chip with a mild overclock, could be much worse They're still quite variable here at the moment, the bright side is I can give the money to my father who will order the parts through the company he works for, meaning no tax is paid on them, that does bring the prices down slightly.
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