rmurad38

My friend bought an Air 240 and his GPU couldn't fit if he wanted to put the side panel on.
His GPU was an MSI 960, I believe. The problem was that the heat pipes on the GPU where in the way.

You probably need to remove the front plastic bezel of the case and there is likely another screw or two holding the drive bay on. If there isn't it may just be riveted and therefore not removable. This looks like a pre built HP? What type of GPU are you looking to install? It may have size lmits. The PCIe slot looks pretty open there but due to the wires it may not take a full length or double slot card. 

That is probably just an additional storage drive but it looks like it just slides in from the front, it's removable for security or to be able to bring it to another PC as if it was an external drive. But again it looks like you shouldn't need to remove that bay for a GPU, the case may just have size limits. What GPU are you wanting to install?

I guess I'll tell my personal story to add to this discussion.
 
Out of necessity I needed to find a very small cooler. I wanted to do a Mini-ITX build centered around a 6700k and I settled on the EVGA Hadron Air case. With such a tiny form factor (169x305x308mm) I knew my cooler choices would be limited. Perhaps a lack? of research pointed me to the Noctua NH-L9x65, a nice (and expensive) low profile cooler at 65x95x95mm:
 

 
My idle and standard use temps weren't terrible, If I recall, upper 40's to low 50's, but under full load (like a stress test or video encoding) my temps shot up to the mid to upper 80's almost immediately. While the CPU never thermal throttled, I didn't like all that heat.
 
I later discovered that the L9 was rated for a 65w cpu. The 6700k is a 91w part. My mistake! I RMA'd that cooler but decided I still wanted to go with Noctua.
I found the NH-U6S, much larger, well taller than the previous heatsink at 125x95x95mm but the shortest tower style cooler I could find at the time at just 125mm. Perfect considering how narrow (169mm) the Hadron Air case is:

 
With this cooler, my idle temps are now in the low to mid 30's and under load I've not seen any warmer than the low 70's. Also, even though it was quiet, the fan frequently spun to the max on the first cooler, now I pretty much never notice the fan.
 

 
TL;DR: So to echo everyone else here, faster CPUs run hot, Bigger heat sinks dissipate more heat which allow for of course lower temps OR lower noise at the same temp, or a bit of both as I saw first hand.
 
EDIT: I forgot to chime in on the whole weight thing. Even my small NH-U9S tips the scales at 618g with the fan. Many people suggest that if a machine is to be shipped, the heat sink should probably be removed. The GPU should be too as they weigh far more than most heat sinks and are plugged into the far more mechanically weaker PCIe slot, (but that's a topic for another discussion) Personally what I do is to be sure if I'm bringing the PC anywhere, I place the case on its side so weight is being pressed down onto the motherboard vs. pulling away from it. I've done this for years and never had an issue.

I have an i7 6700k and a GTX 1070 and am getting by just fine with 500w EVGA 80+ Gold.
 
A 650w is a little bit overkill for your setup but not terribly so, especially if major overclocking or more components will go in down the line. There is no harm in going with such a unit other than potentially its higher cost, and higher (VERY negligible) impact on the electric bill.
 
But for now, 450-500w from a reputable vendor would probably be ideal.

Yeah, you might have to look around a bit for it, people don't usually put it back where it belongs.
 

A GTX 1070 is not overkill for 1080p 60 FPS, and I have no idea where people saying that it is are getting such an idea from.
 
If you get a 1060 or 480, you'll have to reduce graphical settings to get 60 FPS in graphically-intensive games. A GTX 1070 can usually get 60 - 90 FPS in graphically-intensive games, at 1080p, but there are still cases where a 1070 struggles to get 60 FPS at 1080p.
 
 
Notice that Hairworks is disabled in the Witcher 3 part of that demo.
 
Also, a GTX 1070 can't get 60 FPS at 1440p, therefore it can't really be called ideal for 1440p. The GTX 1070 is a 1080p card, and is the bare minimum if your goal is to have a constant 60 FPS, with all settings maxed, in graphically-intensive games.
 
Then the GTX 1070, or a 980ti, is the bare minimum for you. With a 1060 or 480, you'll be living on the lower-side of 60 FPS in graphically-intensive games, unless you lower graphical settings. And that's with already-released game, nevermind games that will release over the next two years.
 
If you get a 1060 or 480, you'll be in the exact situation that your above quote says is precisely the situation that you don't want to be in.
 
 
People, please stop calling a 1070 overkill for 1080p, 60 FPS. It is not. And a 1070 is definitely not a 1080p, 144 FPS  GPU - for that, a person will want at least a GTX 1080, even though a GTX 1080 doesn't get 144 FPS in graphically-intensive games at 1080p, either.

The physical vibration probably wouldn't hurt the components, as powered subs have been around forever with amplifiers inside. An optical drive however could very possibly have issues as heavy vibration could cause it to "skip"
 
What may be the most harmful, especially with non-solid state storage would be the gigantic magnet on the Subwoofer driver itself.

Just about every current graphics card uses a PCIe x16 connector, As long as the motherboard has one (most do) you should be all set. And yes they make adapters to adapt a cases USB3 header to USB2 

i dont kinow about that board but i used to own a gigabyte board ans it never gave me problems for years it still works to this day.

The physical vibration probably wouldn't hurt the components, as powered subs have been around forever with amplifiers inside. An optical drive however could very possibly have issues as heavy vibration could cause it to "skip"
 
What may be the most harmful, especially with non-solid state storage would be the gigantic magnet on the Subwoofer driver itself.

In that case, I'd probably look toward the power supply and its connectors to the other components in your PC. Perhaps swap it out for another if you have a spare.

Ok now that there is build, go with a 2x8GB kit for your RAM because then you dont need to throw out your RAM when you want more and add a 1TB or 2TB HDD for bulk storage

Buying a WD green for a gaming build

After I got my 1080 in I realized I didn't leave room for the watercooling fittings on the graphics card and didn't know where to mark the holes for the pass-thru's...
Or the power cables...

but I marked it and made plans to move them and make the appropriate holes.

A socket 1155 (this one is upside down vs. your pic), is supposed to look like this:
 

 
Run far far away!

Well the name "The Global Offensive Annihilator" name comes from how the most played video game on it will be CS:GO (and for those of you who does know the GO bit stands for Global Offensive) and how I'll be taking and travelling with this PC internationally.
As someone who travels a lot and doesn't have a grand plus to spend on a laptop, I decided to go with a small case that I can fit in my bag and build a Mini ITX PC. This will become the replacement of Matx secondary PC and take over some of my laptop duties. I was debating whether to save an ass ton of money by getting a h61 ITX motherboard but decided against it as I still needed a server...
 
I had a budget of 550 quid (well 300 of it was in the form of Yen so...meh?) and this is the parts list:
CPU: i5 6400
Cooler: Arctic Freezer 11LP (stole it from my old secondary rig)
Motherboard: Asrock H110M-ITX/AC
GPU: Inno3D GTX1060 (free advanced edition of 3Dmarks and VRmark plus OCuk gave me some haribos and a free steam game and free next day delivery so...win win win win situation? )
RAM: Panram branded DDR4 2133Mhz 8GB single stick
Storage: OCZ 150 120GB (had this lying around)-this isn't the final config as I decide to whether add a 2.5" 750GB drive or a 500GB 850 evo.
PSU: Bequiet 400W SFX power 2
Case: Lian Li PC-Q21
 
The actual build began with my usual routine of waking up and ea...oh wait, you guys don't need to read this part, ermmm...let's move along. Thinking about it, actually, infact, is there even a point naming that as a build log? All I'm doing here is putting some simple "lego" together for this PC...ah well, may as well add some pictures to show off  (note: Once again I was too lazy to properly set up some lighting and use my DSLR so...potato photos it is then )
 
Before anything was put together :
 
Building the PC:
 
And finally the finished build :
 
Finally, a picture outside the cas..wait, since there's no side widow, you can't see anything anyway...NEXT!
 
Now I've gotta install windows and whatever plus do some temperature testing .
 
Edit: Well, 6 months later, I've just re-read this and realised how cringy it is, time for some simple editing...

The power supply others had recommended would be fine, I'd possibly reconsider your RAM choice, using all 4 slots for "just" 16GB limits your expansion down the road.
If you're stuck on wanting only 16GB (I'd do more on a system of that caliber) at least consider a pair of 8GB chips, leaving slots open for the future.

I am in the middle of RMA'ing an NH-L9x65. I had it in an EVGA Hadron Air Mini-ITX case. My CPU is also a 6700k.
 
My Idle and standard use temps weren't terrible, but under full load (like a stress test or video encoding) my temps shot up to the mid to upper 80's.
The L9 is rated for a 65w cpu, the 6700k is a 91w part.
 
I have since replaced that cooler with an NH-U6S which is a low profile tower cooler (95x95x125mm) and my temps (under full load) have dropped to the low 70's. This cooler still fits fine in my case and is nice and quiet. Highly recommended!
 
Good Luck!

I'm using a Noctua NH-U9S, its 125mm tall so plenty of clearance in the Hadron Air.
 
Running a 6700k at stock speeds for now and I'm seeing temps of about 28-32 idle and about 70 under full load.
I originally had an NH-L9x65 which idled fine (low to mid 30's) but under load hit mid to upper 80's, That seemed a bit too hot, and why I swapped.
 
Hadron Air: i7 6700k (@stock), Zotac GTX1070, ASUS Z170I, Noctua NH-U6S, 32GB Kingston RAM, Samsung 256MB 850PRO M.2, 3TB WD Green.