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About rmurad38

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Healthcare IT


  • CPU
    i7 6700k
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming
  • RAM
    32GB Kingston HyperX DDR4
  • GPU
    Zotac GTX 1070 FE
  • Case
    EVGA Hadron Air
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, SanDisk X400 1TB
  • PSU
    EVGA 500W 80Plus Gold
  • Display(s)
    Dell S2716DG
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U9S
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K520
  • Mouse
    Logitech M310
  • Sound
    SupremeFX, Harman Kardon Soundsticks III
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64Bit

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  1. Like this?: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/technology/g-sync/where-to-buy-g-sync-monitors-and-modules
  2. Given the nature of the problem and the likelihood of real damage, I don't see why you should have any problem with getting an RMA, perhaps just do it and select a comparable card from another brand. That being said, I don't believe this fix is a band-aid, the VRMs should have been cooled from the beginning as they are on most any other card. I'd like to believe the omission was just an assembly error, hopefully not a cost cutting measure on what was is a pretty premium product. Good luck.
  3. If you are handy with working on hardware, EVGA will send you a thermal pad kit that you can install to fix the issue. If you would rather not dismantle your new expensive card (understandable), I believe it can be either sent to them to have the thermal pads installed, or better yet, just RMA it. Personally, I would not stress test, overclock or even heavily game until the fix is in place or the card is verified to not have the issue. You might contact EVGA with your serial number to confirm
  4. That is probably just an additional storage drive but it looks like it just slides in from the front, it's removable for security or to be able to bring it to another PC as if it was an external drive. But again it looks like you shouldn't need to remove that bay for a GPU, the case may just have size limits. What GPU are you wanting to install?
  5. You probably need to remove the front plastic bezel of the case and there is likely another screw or two holding the drive bay on. If there isn't it may just be riveted and therefore not removable. This looks like a pre built HP? What type of GPU are you looking to install? It may have size lmits. The PCIe slot looks pretty open there but due to the wires it may not take a full length or double slot card.
  6. Overclocking is possible in such a case but the maximum amount will likely be limited compared to that of a larger case. In that particular case, a blower style would be best as it will vent the hot air generated by the GPU out of the case instead of inside. In that case you don't really have room for any extra fans without extra modding. You should be okay however as long as you stick to a blower style cooler. What type of hardware are you thinking of putting in this case? that will really determine the amount of heat produced and the amount of overclocking possible.
  7. I have an i7 6700k and a GTX 1070 and am getting by just fine with 500w EVGA 80+ Gold. A 650w is a little bit overkill for your setup but not terribly so, especially if major overclocking or more components will go in down the line. There is no harm in going with such a unit other than potentially its higher cost, and higher (VERY negligible) impact on the electric bill. But for now, 450-500w from a reputable vendor would probably be ideal.
  8. Benchmark: Fire StrikeCPU: i7 6700k (4.0 GHz) GPU: GTX 1070GPU Core: 1911 MHzGPU Memory: 2,003 MHzScore: 15,013 3DMark Link: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/10330772
  9. I didn't catch what power supply you have, but you might try getting a PCIe 8 pin extension that may have thinner wires than your power supply's plug. it may still be tight, but perhaps could put less pressure on the case window and the card. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=pcie+8+pin+power+extension&N=-1&isNodeId=1 I was unable to find any 1070 or 1060 that have the power connector on the short side. I do have an XFX R9 380 with that configuration and always thought it was a great design, but they seem to have dropped that style, not to mention they dont seem to do Nvidia GPUs at this time.
  10. From the case specs: Maximum GPU Length: 290mm Maximum CPU Cooler Height: 120mm So the max width would be limited to 120mm but you would also need to factor in the thickness of the 6 or 8 pin PCIe power connector as well, unless it is a card where the power connector is on the short end of the card vs. the long side. I have a Zotac 1070 FE (a reference card) in an EVGA Hadron Air, a tiny ITX case. The card measures 266.7x111.15mm so it would probably fit, however the side mounted 8 pin power could be getting close to the side panel if your power supply has overly thick wires that arent too flexible. There would only be about 9mm give or take of space.
  11. Everything listed looks compatible. Only thing is that power supply is probably a bit overkill. For that system, given the GPU chosen, something in the 500-600W range would be more than sufficient. Also since that board can do 64GB of RAM, maybe consider 2 16GB vs the 4 8GB to allow for expansion at a later date.
  12. Check to see if the memory is seated properly, If you can get into the BIOS see if anything is detected there. Try enabling the memory's X.M.P profiles if disabled, or disabling that if its enabled. How many DIMMs are you using? being x99 and Quad channel, are they in the correct slots?
  13. I guess I'll tell my personal story to add to this discussion. Out of necessity I needed to find a very small cooler. I wanted to do a Mini-ITX build centered around a 6700k and I settled on the EVGA Hadron Air case. With such a tiny form factor (169x305x308mm) I knew my cooler choices would be limited. Perhaps a lack? of research pointed me to the Noctua NH-L9x65, a nice (and expensive) low profile cooler at 65x95x95mm: My idle and standard use temps weren't terrible, If I recall, upper 40's to low 50's, but under full load (like a stress test or video encoding) my temps shot up to the mid to upper 80's almost immediately. While the CPU never thermal throttled, I didn't like all that heat. I later discovered that the L9 was rated for a 65w cpu. The 6700k is a 91w part. My mistake! I RMA'd that cooler but decided I still wanted to go with Noctua. I found the NH-U6S, much larger, well taller than the previous heatsink at 125x95x95mm but the shortest tower style cooler I could find at the time at just 125mm. Perfect considering how narrow (169mm) the Hadron Air case is: With this cooler, my idle temps are now in the low to mid 30's and under load I've not seen any warmer than the low 70's. Also, even though it was quiet, the fan frequently spun to the max on the first cooler, now I pretty much never notice the fan. TL;DR: So to echo everyone else here, faster CPUs run hot, Bigger heat sinks dissipate more heat which allow for of course lower temps OR lower noise at the same temp, or a bit of both as I saw first hand. EDIT: I forgot to chime in on the whole weight thing. Even my small NH-U9S tips the scales at 618g with the fan. Many people suggest that if a machine is to be shipped, the heat sink should probably be removed. The GPU should be too as they weigh far more than most heat sinks and are plugged into the far more mechanically weaker PCIe slot, (but that's a topic for another discussion) Personally what I do is to be sure if I'm bringing the PC anywhere, I place the case on its side so weight is being pressed down onto the motherboard vs. pulling away from it. I've done this for years and never had an issue.
  14. That PC requires low profile expansion cards and also has only a 220W PSU, your choices are going to be limited and not necessarily much better than the integrated GPU on the processor. That being said, if the motherboard has standard ATX mounting holes and can be run off a normal ATX power supply, you could potentially transfer the components into a standard sized case and use a larger power supply. At that point, the low profile restriction wouldn't be an issue.
  15. No need to actually call, use the form here: https://account.coolermaster.com/LogOn.aspx You WILL be responsible for shipping costs of the faulty unit to Coolermaster, you may need to decide if replacement is worth the cost.