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About Daniel644

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ellijay, GA


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston Hyper X DDR4 2400Mhz
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i V2

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  1. they don't have the Unify, I am aware of that one though, I'm not part of the Anti-RGB crowd, I like having lighting in the case, I don't do the rainbow puke (FYI I can't control the RGB of the RAM on this pre-AURA Z170 board in the picture above) here is the boards my Microcenter has https://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?N=4294966996+4294818900+4294810816&NTX=&NR=&filterProperty=&NTT=&NTK=all&page=1&sortby=pricehigh&SortNow=Go If it doesn't set the store choose the Marietta, GA store and remember I get an additional $30 off the prices listed on the website if I buy the board at the same time as the CPU. Buildzoid, isn't much of a fan of the X570-E he says they are just too pricey for what you get, either step down to the TUF or go up to the Hero VII, I kinda like the dedicated W Pump header instead of just an AIO Pump header on the VIII vs. the TUF, plus the VIII has more USB ports and other higher end features, I guess at this point I just have to decide if the extra 100-200 for the Hero VIII is worth it for my ultimate goals of the computer. the Meg ACE is actually discounted enough that it comes in cheaper then the Unify at Newegg, but i've pretty much ruled that one out anyway. I'm gonna rewatch the video again in the morning while i'm getting ready to head south to the store. This is likely to be my last post for the next 5-6 hours as I need to go get some sleep.
  2. buying from Microcenter because with the discount on Mobo's there it comes out cheaper then online.
  3. No DIRECT airflow, case is a Corsair 570X (see picture) with a 360 rad in the front pulling air in using the stock RGB fans and a 240 rad with the EK Vardar fans in the top exhausting out and an exhaust on the rear, but fan speeds are tuned to be relatively reasonable noise levels as the system is in the living room. Between the Res and the fan speed there is very little airflow coming through the front. Spending more for something that is measurably better is fine, I don't mind doing that, I just don't want to be spending stupid money like the Aurous Extreme at $700, the video above from Der8auer kinda has me leaning toward the Hero VIII, temps and efficiencies are pretty in line with the Extreme but at half the price, I was previously considering the Meg ACE but seeing it more in line with the TUF temp wise is definitely steering me away from that one, because why pay over a $100 more for the same performance, the TUF is kinda my fallback if I can't find something I like better, I've already built a 3900X build for the office I do contract work for using that board and it's even cheaper now at Microcenter then it was back in August when I did that build (after the sale price and the $30 discount when you buy a Mobo and CPU at the same time, it's only $150, which even after taxes will keep me in the target, not fixed, budget of $1,000 for CPU and Mobo), as for the Taichi, I just don't like the look of it, it doesn't jive with look i'm ultimately going for (which will include converting to hardline at some point).
  4. rig is ALREADY watercooled and has been for some time, also AMD suggest Watercooling for 3950X anyway. this is a Mobo and CPU swap on an existing rig.
  5. good VRM and ATX form factor are the only real requirements, something that has Bluetooth built in would be a bonus so I can use the bluetooth keyboard I have for my Shield TV for when I'm on the couch and want to navigate to a movie.
  6. So I'm going to Microcenter to pickup the 3950X, I reserved on launch day, in the morning, I want to pickup an X570 Mobo while i'm there but I want one with a really good VRM that can handle being under heavy load for months on end without any direct airflow over the VRM, the 3950X will be under a waterblock and I'm going to use this machine to encode my DVD/Bluray Library (which is several HUNDRED discs deep) into x265 so I can digitize my entire library, because of this the machine will be under heavy load 24/7, so i'm looking for a really good VRM but I also don't want to buy some $700 Mobo. Mobo should be an ATX because this is also my gaming rig and so I need space for the GPU and the Vive Wireless PCI Card.
  7. and what about the other stick in A1? what we are trying to establish is whether a stick is bad or a slot is bad or if something else entirely is going on, so the first step is you start with a stock BIOS (no XMP or anything like that) and see is Stick A boots in slot A1, if it does shut down and remove Stick A and Replace it with Stick B and see if it boots with Stick B in the A1 slot, if both boot fine that way then the issue is not the ram sticks and that makes us look at a likely defective motherboard, it Stick B doesn't boot then we have a bad RAM stick, it's rare, i've seen 1 bad out of box and 1 failed while using stick of RAM in my nearly 20 years of building, if you have a CD Drive (you may be able to do this off a USB these days) there is a program called Memtest86 it will also show you if there are issues with the RAM.
  8. you can try manually forcing the upgrade this was updated a month ago saying the method described still works https://www.howtogeek.com/266072/you-can-still-get-windows-10-for-free-with-a-windows-7-8-or-8.1-key/ I will be testing this myself on my sisters old laptop so that I can swap it to an SSD.
  9. VRAM usage has to do more with the level of detail you load, the higher you crank the settings in the game the more VRAM it needs, like say you increase the texture details or the scene render distance, basically the more stuff it needs to load to play the game the more VRAM it uses. Low VRAM usage doesn't indicate there is any kind of issue like you are describing. What you can try instead of doing the DDU then installing the latest drivers, do the DDU then install the old drivers you had from before last week, nearly every build of Nvidia Drivers is readily available online if you go here https://www.nvidia.com/drivers/beta you can find every build of the drivers and see the original release dates so you can try to guess which driver build you where running BEFORE you lost the performance. Another thought, did you happen to upgrade to the latest Windows 10 build? I swear that thing is getting to be a bigger GPU resource hog every version.
  10. well from what we can see, it supports a full ATX mobo and has tempered glass and a top mount PSU so we can rule out any of the O11 variants as the PSU mounts in the rear half of that unit, a top mount PSU is also pretty rare in a tempered glass case, using those restrictions I went to newegg and started sorting, I believe THIS is the card you are looking for https://www.newegg.com/black-rosewill-prism-s500-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811147283
  11. why not spend a touch more on the PSU selection and get a PSU that has 2 8 Pin CPU Power connections, I know the RM850x does and I think the v2 RM750x does, most higher tier PSU's should and a PSU isn't where you want to cheap out in a build, odds are that PSU is gonna outlast the rest of the machine.
  12. but this is the thread for the video so it's the place to put it, YOU are the one that feels the need to interject your opinion into it and you are now joining my ignore list.
  13. just because it doesn't distract you doesn't mean it doesn't distract others. and besides buddy I was addressing LMG via the forum here, this was not meant to be something for everyone with an opinion to sound off on, just because you don't care doesn't give you the right to bully other people for saying something. This isn't a one time thing, this has been going on for weeks and I've been forced to stop watching the videos because of it.
  14. 4:04 is the timestamp I stopped at, he literally stops what he is doing to show off the jacket and a card pops in taking up the left 3rd of the screen, it's completely distracting and makes his videos unwatchable, it's impossible to predict which moment in a video he will do this unlike the other adspots and frankly it's just a scummy thing to do, are the intro and outro adspots not enough? if not TELL US, don't just ad a third adspot and ignore your viewers when they say something about it. You also never know how long these spots will be and so going willy nilly on the skip may make you miss something important, eitherway it's a massive distraction and causes viewers with certain medical conditions (like ADHD for example) to lose focus on whats happening in the video, in short it's a dick move and nothing but a cashgrab that is driving away viewers, if the merch was this good it wouldn't need to be advertised this heavily.
  15. THATS what the adspots at the beginning and end that are edited out for Floatplane subscribers are for, stopping dead in your tracks to shill merch ruining the whole flow of EVERY VIDEO POSTED for the last month is amount to TROLLING not trying to make sales. If TV increased commercials by 50% so that an hour long TV show is now only 35 minutes and commercials are 25 minutes would you be OK with that? because it's the same damn thing as Linus adding a 3rd advertisement to every video. it completely interupts the flow of the video, it's outside of the traditional adspots and now brings him up to 3 adspots where all the other techtubers are 1 maybe 2 and they keep them limited to the beginning or end like a gentlemen, this is Truman Show level advertising. I frankly can't believe you are defending a companies advertising policy, you should want ads to be as minimal as needed to be, not defending the addition of a third ad break.