pommedeterror007

Good to know, I had a feeling it wasnt truly necessary as my current 1080ti barely hits 55c under regular load. I forget mem temps but never had an issue with those either.

So I finally got the email from EVGA saying im up for a 3080. I ordered it last night and started looking up water blocks for it as I have a full loop, I noticed that EK now makes active watercooling backplates for the card. My question is, is it actually necessary/beneficial to get the active backplate. I would have a normal metal backplate on it if I didnt use the active one so id imagine thats enough but am wondering if someone has direct experience with it. TLDR: Is the EK active water cooling backplate actually going to make a difference to mem temps when already water cooled.

So I have a weird issue. Basically as the title states my desktop shortcuts/icons will re arrange themselves when I move them around. Another thing is that if I select more than 1 it will not let me move them at all, only when I individually drag one around will it move. After I move a second or third icon will it revert my changes and arrange them into a set arrangement that seems to have no organization. Ive looked into the issue and for some people its as easy as toggling auto arrange icons. This does not help my issue, ive tried verifying my system files etc. Updating drivers and windows etc. Any input is greatly appreciated. I attached a screen shot of what it re arranges to. Other considerations: I do run 3 monitors (all 1440p, landscape mode all in horizontal line) Ive tried disconnecting the other monitors, the issue persists regardless.

typically Samsung has better reliabilty, slightly better iop performance and brand. other wise not mush diff.

are you shutting it down or putting it to sleep? check power plans in control panel.

thats a toughie. first check connections, drivers of course, make sure you ar3nt on any eco settings on either monitor/pc. swap cables,

My first guess would be making sure you remove any previous drivers. Check your wifi router to see if it lost priority or is placed on any low priority or restricted use. What type of connection are you using? wired or wifi?

Ahh, odd it just didn't say it on the online manual for some reason. Maybe I was just blind. *although that is a normal code then, nothing alarming.

Avocados recommendations are very good. reliable brand and fast drives. I also like PNY cs900 models for a little lower (but usually a good 50% cheaper when the Samsung are not on sale), as well as crucial bx500, Western Digital Blue units too. Right now id go with Samsung units considering their prices at the moment.

There are lots of great options but we need to get some info. 1. Budget 2. Capacity wanted : SSDs typically come in 120-128, 240-256, 480-512gb, 960gb-1tb ETC 3. Interface: Sata VS m.2 (sata or nvme)

I mean if you think about it the transfer/read speeds will be faster so that portion of the installation would be faster yes. But its only about 5-8 Gb of files. Majority of installation is unpacking and thats more cpu bound etc.

It depends on the case model / fans / etc. Could you please provide the case model (link preferred) aswell as if you plan on adding fans etc

A0 : IDE initialization is started. (aka hard drive reading/activated) 40 : Doesnt exist? (cant find it on your motherboards manual: could possibly be CPU temp depending on Bios Settings) FB/F8 : Reserved (system should be running fine just a status during boot i believe.

Use a powerline ethernet adapter. The way they work is it includes 2 units, one plugs directly into your wall outlet aswell as ethernet into the router/modem. The second unit plugs into the wall where you want the ethernet connection to exist (ex: upstairs), this output the ethernet connection from the first unit and outputs via ethernet, some have wifi aswell. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-powerline-ac1200-gigabit-ethernet-adapter-2-pack-white/4002029.p?skuId=4002029 Heres a very reliable and common one.

Yeah ive heard good things about Behringer but after seeing the reviews/comments about customer service/support im probably going to pass. Thanks again for your input though!

Thanks for the indepth reasoning behind not getting behringer, ill avoid those in that case. I saw you also had some other recommendations such as the Steinberg UR12, Tascam US-1x2, and the Mackie Onyx. Are these any worse than the rode? So far I am leaning towards the rode for its size and simple looks. Thanks again.

So, basically im looking for a new audio interface for my setup. Currently I have the focusrite scarlett solo (2nd Gen). Im trying to switch from it because for some reason ive been having issues with it where in heavier games/workloads its gets all "robotic / static-y" To everyone I speak to. Im hoping to also get one that has a headphone output to power some higher impedance headphones. Id love to get some recommendations from people who have a little more knowledge/experience than I. Thanks ahead for reading. Current mic : Audio Technica AT2020 (XLR) Current Audio Interface: Focusrite Scarlett solo 2nd gen Windows 10 Pro i7-8700k (if that matters) Mostly use mic for discord/teamspeak/calls Philips sph9500 main headphones (planning on getting some higher impedance headphones in the future)

Cheapest option is second hand off of facebook marketplace or craigslist. Found some great deals on Onkyo subs (100-200 watts) for like 30 bucks. Otherwise are you in the US? If not what are your stores that you can buy from?

Well for starters everything seems like it should work fine aslong as you verified block compatibility. I always buy 2 extra fittings in case personally. Fittings for compression style with rigid tubing have come down alot in pricing. They mostly vary for 5$ (for basic nickel plated EK fittings) to 10$ for nice white color. Personally I dont find it helpful to have water temperature, the hassle of buying, planning and hooking it up isnt worth it for me (just monitor component temps and you should be fine). There are lots of drain options but you are adding about 4 Fittings and a 3-4 way splitter block, I recommend it if you can put it on the bottom of the loop and make a fill port as these will make your system much easier to manage. Fluid, I recommend nothing more than distilled water with biocide or any clear, non dyed fluids. Ive dealt with opaque fluids which will literally clog a system in 6 months of normal/heavy use. Dyed fluids with stain tubing and blocks over time so its much harder to adapt it to a different color. I personally use a very lightly opaque white fluid and RGB lighting to highlight a color

So, heres my issue. I try to play tarkov but find it very difficult as I get between 35-80 fps on avg depending on the map. Im using afterburner to monitor usage, temps and clocks. I see that my GPU (1080 ti) with a light overclock is only being utilized by about 30-45%. I also see my CPU (i7 8700k) w/ light OC, is at about 40-50% depending on if im using chrome or other programs. Ive followed a few guide and tried different settings with little to no success. I was hoping I could get some next steps, or recommendations. Ive tried different screen modes (fullscreen/windowed/borderless), different quality settings, Vsync, registry editing to auto launch at high priority etc. Specs: i7-8700k @ 4.3 Ghz GTX 1080ti @ ~2000Mhz (is this a decent OC?) 32GB DDR4 Corsair @ 3200mhz 850 Watt PSU. Custom Loop Water Cooling so Temperatures are about 55c and 60C for Gpu and CPU respectively. Windows 10 Pro Game monitor is 1440p @144hz 2 Side monitors 1440p

Are you talking about the oil cooled PC? Where its submerged?

Really? interesting. Sorry bout that, every Hp I or anyone ive seen own, has been 2400mhz. Are you able to do anything in the bios?

To me it sounds like the adaptors you tried are not correct. Lots of display adapters are directional, and are specific to the type of DVI you are using. Verify the version of DVI your monitor uses and find the correct directional adapter. (try your local best buy, return it if it doesnt work (15 days time and they wont pester you about the return at all)

Its hard to say. Sounds like an incompatibility to me. I have an HP Envy Spectre and only 2400mhz ram works correctly on mine. Ive tried 1 set of 2666mhz gskill and had crashes and stability issues. I would try 2400mhz if you plan on exchanging them.

As someone who used to sell TVs and related stuff, I have to ask some questions 1: What sizes are you looking for? 2: What do you primarily watch 3: Is your seating area wide or mostly focused on 1 or 2 couches/seating areas. 4: Do you need a specific type of stand? 5: Any brands that you do not want? or any other no gos?