Khaleesinikov

as title says, i get constant cpu late starts in every single game i play causing dropped frames. Even when the performance graph is fully green, the cpu late start is still there constantly, and after a bit of time it will cause dropped frames. For example in vtol vr i can fly around for a minute with a butter smooth experience and then suddenly start dropping frames or whatever the red line in the performance graph means. This includes every game i play. I did set vr pre rendered frames in nvcp to 4 and that helped a bit, but i then set it to app controlled and it helped more meaning that the games werent constantly in their choppy state. cpu and gpu usage never reach 100%, usually my gpu hangs around 60-70% and my cpu around 50-40%. Specs: Ryzen 5 3600 GTX 1660 super Dev edition HP WMR headset 16Gb ram Win 11 SS is at the recommended 150% global and 100% app. Changing it doesnt help anything. Here is the Frame Timing graph at 20% Global SS: https://ibb.co/TwL34Dd Everything is updated to the latest version. I had this issue for a long time but i just got used to playing like that and now that i have felt how its like to be buttery smooth i just can't go back. Thanks in advance

I have to put together a complete PC and GPU's are basically non existent on the market. For 1080p@60 i found a 980TI for 285 USD. a 1660 is 350$ used (a 1660 super is 550$ new), a 1070 is around 300 or more. I don't really want to buy a 1650 because thats around 230$ used. I live in hungary, so thats why the prices are so huge. AMD cards are around the same price I can't wait for better deals because i have a week to put this pc together. So would a 980 TI be worth it or should i buy a 1050/960 for around 60-90$ and wait for the prices to go down.

If im correct the timings should be the same so i guess it can work then? Speed is the same its just a different model. but the row cycle time is different, and CL(IDD) is different too (9 and 10) in the official kingston specsheet. I'm not smart in this area so i'm not really sure if these matter or not I'm only getting this because the new half life most likely wont run well on a single channel ddr3 stick, and its a bottleneck in some games already

I have a fairly old kingston hyperX KHX1600C10D3 single channel 8 gb stick, and i'd like to upgrade to 16 gigs, but they don't sell this exact model anymore and the only one that is similar is the HX316C10F/8 model. Could i run these 2 different models in dual channel without any problems?

I have a fairly old steering wheel that somehow still works, (logitech wingman formula gp, the yellow one without FFB). Is it possible to do some magic inside that allows me to turn it 900 degrees instead of 90? I read somewhere that i could change the potentiometers inside but i dont really know how to and if i could, it probably wouldn't work with its original drivers. Since the paddle shifters on the back are starting to fail, get stuck etc, I've decided to go the DIY route since i'm a poor student. I already have a concept for a shifter made out of a flight stick and soldering a pedal as clutch to a controller's trigger input. Now my question is that is it possible to mod the wheel to have bigger degrees of rotation, or should i just wait for a few months and buy a g25 or g29.

Since i moved my system into a new case, it started shutting off randomly. Usually happens when i first boot it up for the day, and after I start any game. It stops twice after every game launch, ex: trying to play Rocket league but before i could play ranked i have to wait for 2 shutdowns for it to work properly. Now the interesting thing is that sometimes it does not start back up by itself and i can't turn it on with the power button. The solution to this is the good ol russian way. I hit the case somewhere on top and it just starts by itself. My temps are fine, the only reason i think that its not my psu is because i need to hit the case for it to start. I'm completely lost, and i don't have any spare hardware to test parts.

About a week ago or even less, my system started randomly shutting off, like completely losing power and then turning itself back on. My cpu is mildly oc'd but it has been for a year. This started after moving into a new case that is a fsp cmt 510 (has a pcb at the back that connects all fans to a single molex connector). PSU is an evga 100 w1 600W my motherboard is roughly 6 years old. Yesterday, same thing happened but it didn't turn itself back on and i was unable to turn it on via power on button. The mobo draws power from the psu because a little led lights up on it, and link/activity leds are on, yet nothing happens. After 5 minutes i could turn it on. Today i got home from school and was unable to turn it on. and after 20 minutes it turned on by itself without me doing anything. I doubt that this is an issue due to OC. Either my psu is failing to deliver enough, or there is a shorting issue somewhere in the case but i can't get to it. (i added 3 lgb strips but that shouldn't make my psu not deliver enough)

even if it would be true, the biggest red flag is that it asks you to complete a survey to access the download. They've actually put a lot of effort into this. their website looks really legit. they even have detailed information on how to configure, what's the minimum hardware, error messages and fixes. (in their uncharted gameplay, you can see the gpu usage. Looks legit to people who don't pay attention to that, but its just randomly generated numbers probably, or even preset numbers.)

Does it happen to all keys? If it happens to only one then it could be a faulty switch or some dust (at least that is what I've read).

Well it's around the same price. The full height has a different switch if I read it correctly. Either way the short version should be faster and easier to get used to.

Thank you for the suggestion. just to be clear, the link that you provided to the spectrum is for the SE (G11UXL) version, but considering that you wrote short keys then it should be the G11SFL right?

Ah sorry i forgot about that. I live in hungary. I can send you a link that is a collection of all mechanical boards that are sold here. It is not a seller site, more like a search engine for products and sellers. https://www.arukereso.hu/billentyuzet-c3111/mechanikus-igen/?orderby=1 It is in hungarian sorted from low to high but the keyboards are in their original name. 100$ is around 26 000 huf but i can go above that a bit It actually looks good and it is cheap. The only problem that it is not sold anymore here. Last one here was around 2-3 weeks ago

My current keyboard (bloody b120) is dying and i have decided to get myself a mechanical one. The problem is, I have 0 knowledge about how different switches work and what is the best for what. I'm playing a lot of osu!mania and i do type a lot and game as well, what could be the optimal choice for precision and speed for a low cost (around a 100$). My only requirements are that a num pad is a must have for me. Thanks in advance.

Well the mix and the mix 2 has the same price here. Considering that the 2 has lower battery life and no jack, It makes up for it with better hardware.

I am going to switch from my iPhone 5s back to android, and I came to 3 choices. I really love the design of the first mix but i cannot decide what to buy. Thoughts?