DXMember

oh, it's easy
you get a metal rod, heat it up to like 150~200*C and shove it up your friends hole until he gives you working headphones

those fuckers... in before you post a solution on how to run skylake on H67 chipset with PCI-E 3.0 and USB 3.0, and unlock GT8800 Ultra to support DX12

if there's a reason for you to replace the thermal compund because it's running too hot in the warranty period then you should RMA and make Asus reapply the thermal compound or replace the card for you
if the dish washer is leaking you don't patch it up you send it for a replacement
 
I am not familiar with your country law but I've never hard that the consumer is supposed to fix broken stuff and when it breaks completely send in for warranty - ofcourse the warranty will be void if you patch that leaking dish washer with nails and hammer

pretty much yes unless they are using the evga, xfx or the top end overclocking boards that are explicitly okayed by the manufacturer to remove the cooler, like Lightning, HOF, Matrix
 
even if it's not void immediately after your board dies because of the leak or impropely mounter block no reasonable board manufacturer will cover your ass
if the leak happens because of the faulty block you might be refunded by the block manufacturer but if you don't mount the block properly and your VRMs burn out then it's your fault
 
companies are not there to replace your hardware at any time, it's a loss for them and they will investigate the cause of failure and if there's a slightest reason to blame the user they will blame it on user error, ofcourse there are good exceptions but there are bad exceptions as well I've seen a company deny RMA on dead motherboard of a pre-built because the case had a scratch and charged the buyer for diagnostic even though they never opened the case for further investigation. Ofcourse they were wrong to deny RMA there and the buyer made a fuss about it asked to refund the diagnostic cost. The girl was a lawyer but for regular users it's just a huge hassle and generally not worth the effort.
I mean yeah if you go to court you can prove your right and get the hardware replaced on warranty but is it worth it?
 
That is why good customer support is very important for brand loyalty.

a broken sticker that seals the internal circutry from being tampered with is a reason to further investigate and deny warranty service if the cause of the failure is bad assembly and the user is proven to have tampered with it - the sticker is there as a means for proving it has been disassembled by the user and tampered with
 

It is manufaturer depandant, carefully examine the card for any "Warranty void if removed" stickers and better yet contact Asus support directly.
 
As fas as I know EVGA and XFX are the guys that honor Warranty as long as you put the cooler back on or at least provide it for RMA on any of their cards
MSI Lightning cards are O.K. to remove cooler, others are either a strickt NO-WAY or a case-by-case

if the card is throttling or shuts down due to heat then it is a reason for RMA
I've had a bad XFX 290 Double-D Black Edition that used to shut down after a couple of hours of GTA V or half an hour of Tomb Raider 2013 or 15 minutes of Furmark because the VRM reached 130*C
 
XFX was glad to recognize it as manufacturing fault (they really had like 4 or 5 revisions of the 290 DD and I had the 2nd revision - they had a bad time with properly utilizing Ghost 2.0 on Hawaii boards) and were completely okay to replace the card with a newer revision.
 
Even if then I kept running the card there was no way I could cause it to die from heat, you just can't kill modern hardware with heat, they all have throttle, safety shut down protections in hardware that will trip long before any permament damage can be inflicted. For my case specifically that VRM could do 140~150*C before permament damage and the safety was tripped at 130*C long before that
 
if you are okay with overheating GPU then you should really be okay with a leaking dishwaher, from your stance the dishwasher still washes the dishes (the GPU still draws the frames) it just makes your floor a little wet and the dishes aren't as clean as they should be (it just throttles down a little and dosn't draw as many frames as it should)
With that said a Hawaii GPU that's running at 90* and doesn't trottle is not too hot as long as the fan speed and noise is as expected for the cooling solution

exactly! that's what I've been trying to tell you the whole time.
this is the first thing you've said right the entire time.

grown-ups should be able to take being banned

when you plug in your GTX 760 Windows should be able to utilize it with Generic VGA Driver, if it doesn't - it's dead

c'mon... c'mon...
load faster
what is this bullshit
why did i buy an ssd
if that bitch is running
a potatoe, wtf...

the 1 in the front means it's dual fan
the 1 in the middle means it's 140mm fan
the 5 in the end means it has a thicker radiator
the i means it supports Corsair Link software
the GT and GTX means it's pretty

1.Open the Command Prompt. This can be done by triggering the Run -- Windows Key + R -- feature, and opening "cmd".
2.Type "diskpart" to open the disk partitioning software. Accept the UAC security prompt, if asked.
3.Type "list disk". The program will then show you a list of all the physical drives (HDD, SSD, USB, etc.) that are attached.
4.Identify the disk number of the SSD (it can be recognized by looking at the size column; it's usually the last listed disk) and type "select disk X", where "X" is the disk number of your SSD.
5.Type "clean". This will erase the contents of the SSD, so make sure you have the contents backed-up (if any) beforehand.
6.Type "create partition primary". This command will create a primary partition on the SSD.
7.Type "select partition 1". This command will select the created partition.
8.Type "active". This command will make the selected partition active.
9.Type "format fs=ntfs quick". This command will format the created partition as NTFS.
10.Type "assign". This command will assign a letter to the SSD, which will make it show under Windows Explorer.

1.Open the Command Prompt. This can be done by triggering the Run -- Windows Key + R -- feature, and opening "cmd".
2.Type "diskpart" to open the disk partitioning software. Accept the UAC security prompt, if asked.
3.Insert the USB drive.
4.Type "list disk". The program will then show you a list of all the physical drives (HDD, SSD, USB, etc.) that are attached.
5.Identify the disk number of the USB drive (it can be recognized by looking at the size column; it's usually the last listed disk) and type "select disk X", where "X" is the disk number of your USB drive.
6.Type "clean". This will erase the contents of the USB drive, so make sure you have the contents backed-up beforehand.
7.Type "create partition primary". This command will create a primary partition on the USB drive.
8.Type "select partition 1". This command will select the created partition.
9.Type "active". This command will make the selected partition active.
10.Type "format fs=ntfs quick". This command will format the created partition as NTFS.
11.Type "assign". This command will assign a letter to the USB drive, which will make it show under Windows Explorer.
12.Copy the contents of the Windows DVD or ISO from the created folder on the USB drive.

the 1 in the front means it's dual fan
the 1 in the middle means it's 140mm fan
the 5 in the end means it has a thicker radiator
the i means it supports Corsair Link software
the GT and GTX means it's pretty

Set your primary display to be output from 1070, also make sure it's in the primary slot PCI-E on your motherboard for optimal performance
and Windows 10 Version 1703 has a an option to choose which adapter to use for 3D application when you right click the icon

stop browser shaming me, it's ignorant

stop browser shaming me, it's ignorant

you don't have multiple thousand dollar development costs to put a fucking skin in the game

you don't have multiple thousand dollar development costs to put a fucking skin in the game

Updated spreadsheet
Finally got Vega entry, too bad it's a Generic VGA...

I have K95
It's advertised to have on-board memory
but you can't have profiles and macros without software running, so that's bullshit
you also can't bind shortcuts with command line arguments directly from the software, you have to instead create a batch file and then bind a key to that, which causes a command prompt window flash up and throw you out of any and all full screen applications, like idk... GAIMZ, plus it's really annoying since you lose focus from all windows for half a second
and there's some bug with backlights where I still have arrow keys and WASD changing brightness - it's as if the factory default lighting mode is running in the background of my custom profile

I still don't get it how can they get away with marketing "mainstream performance" as a good thing...
what are the high-end workstation chips then?
or are they referring to high boost clocks almost like mainstream parts have?