Megalopath

Just a quick note regarding the HTC Vive controllers, it's a common mistake to "pull" the trigger, "pulling" it makes your arm tense up moving the controller making it inaccurate, instead you should "press" the trigger as if it was... well... a button (which it is). This is very similar to properly firing a pistol if that helps. That being said I do agree a better solution is needed for typing in VR.

Thanks, that sounds like a good permanent solution for me. I suppose I can re-record the footage I took too this time since for once it's not gameplay footage (normally for me is either gameplay or desktop recording), I needed to record some clips from a film for a project I'm working on.

It's not that it's out of sync by being shifted over, it gets more behind the video the further into the video you go. Thanks though.

Thanks! Looks promising, I'll give that a try.

I would like to add SLI scaling seems to not be as good as it used to be, I don't know how crossfire scaling is so I can't speak for it. If I had to pick now I would go for the 1080 Tis unless I'm doing something that requires the Vega compute power.

I am just starting off with using Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2017, and straight away I run into an issue. I tried to import some footage recorded with GeForce Experience and the audio is out of sync in both the preview and when I put it in the timeline, seems to get worse the later in the footage you go (it gets continually behind the video). I saw something online about "variable frame-rate" with the footage causing this and that I can use the software Handbrake to fix the footage (but I don't know what to do in the software to resolve that). Anyone able to provide some pointers? I also have Adobe Media Encoder which I could use if that would help. System Specs: CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: Asus - MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive Storage: Toshiba - 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit

I forgot about this old post, the old board was actually DOA, the replacement came with a working BIOS. I actually have a whole new PC now actually. Here's some teaser photos of my new build: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UZ6jeCdR4dXaWcVH2

Sounds like a possibility, Windows 10 seems to be getting a bit more... intrusive... with their updates. I would try the solution from that article first. Failing that I would try updating to the latest Asus BIOS and Drivers. Come to think of it, might as just remove Intel Management Engine altogether , may fix the issue.

Thanks! I'll check those out after work.

Oh, still in RMA period? Nice, hope they replace it for you then. Having a dead mobo is the worst part to die on you, it makes you worry about all the others. Hope it works out in the end.

Hello, so I recently finished my new (overkill) PC, and I really wish I had bought Ryzen. Skipping past the long story how I ended up with a 7700K, I would like to finally get into overclocking. Up until now I had only used the Asus built in auto-overclocking feature to get my CPU overclock, and for the GPU I can manage a little bit on my own. My biggest issue is I don't know what voltages to tweak to do it manual for either the CPU or GPU. So I was hoping some of you might know where to point me for tutorials on how to overclock CPUs and GPUs(video preferably, but good with written instruction too for reference). The more details and more focusing on what needs done and why the better. Also if you have any advice for a beginner at this, I am very open to it. My Full Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qhnq8K Summary: i7-7700k (auto-overclocking gets a stable 4.8GHz and can get an almost stable 4.9GHz) NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid Cooler (280 Radiator, I have 2 Corsair ML140 fans on it also) Asus Maximus IX Hero Motherboard G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB DDR4-2400 (4x8GB) Cas Latency 15 Boot Drive: Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 ICX (I haven't actually overclocked this yet since I just got it) EVGA SuperNOVA G3 850W 80+ Gold PSU (I have this high wattage since I plan to SLI 1080 Tis later)

This makes me think PSU. Try reseating all PSU cables on BOTH ends. I learned the hard way that new cables sometimes will get a bit loose and then lose contact. Also, what PSU are you using? (concerned about quality)

Sorry @Doublei7, I'm not an expert in circuity or motherboard engineering or anything, but since the traces on the motherboard are so small it's probably dead. I personally wouldn't risk any good hardware on it at this point. I would mitigate my losses and save the board in it's box with a label on it noting it's bad or maybe even get some push pins and put it on the wall as decoration (I actually have a dead mobo on my wall for decor). Just remember every experience like this you have will make you better at avoiding them in the future.

Looks okay to me, I would feel more comfortable seeing both the empty slot and the connector on the card, but looks like an old style PCI slot, so should be good. Also for your graphics card fan, use some compressed air to blow it out, ensure there are no debris blocking it, then try running Furmark (a stress test) to see if you can get the fan spinning, might just be a auto-stop mode.

I would tend to agree with @revsilverspine. It may be worth uninstalling both MOBO and GPU drivers entirely and doing a clean install of those. Also, before doing anything reset the CMOS and remove any GPU overclocks. Also, do you have any OC profiles set to load for the GPU when booting into Windows? If so disable those and see if it clears.