pressf4respect

I've found that there's a bit of conflicting information out there as to what thickness I need to replace my stock thermal pads on my 1080 ti. I don't have a dial caliper to accurately measure it on my own. I'm assuming that 0.5mm is needed for the heat sinks and 1.0 for the vram, but wanted to be sure before I buy. Then, I also read it depends on how compressible the brands' thermal pads are, so might need a bigger or thinner size. Does anyone here have experience selecting, applying, and evaluating performance with different thermal pad brands like Thermal Grizzly Minus pad, ARCTIC thermal pad, ODYSSEY thermal pad, etc? Thanks for your time and help.

Pic posted for my result.

Same result

If I remember correctly, it just didnt load the page and eventually give me a timeout error or something similar. I usually just type my default gateway address into my browser and it opens up the settings for my modem. I can double check when I get back to my place, but I'm fairly sure that's what happens.

I can't access the router settings on a web browser since it's not discoverable to wireless devices. If I use a pc connected to the router, it only opens the settings for the modem on a web browser. Everything is on, LEDs are displaying and blinking like I mentioned above.

Everything is on according to the white, blinking leds, except the 2.4GHz and 5GHz. They're just static white leds. The pc's can still connect to the internet from the router since I'm using it as a switch.

No, it doesnt show up on my phone, pc, etc. So I can't connect to it/login.

Hello everybody! My R7500v2 | Nighthawk X4 AC2350 Smart WiFi isnt discoverable despite being on by the LED indicator. I performed a factory reset since I couldn't remember the security questions to access the router settings on a web browser. After doing so, the wifi hasn't been discoverable on any device in the house. Phone, tablet, console, pc, etc. This doesn't make sense because the led indicator is on and white, but not blinking for 2.4GHz and 5 GHz. I've turned the power button, wifi button, and WPS on/off and still same result. All lights on the router are white/blinking except the internet one since it's plugged to the modem so that's expected. All ethernet cables work, modem is fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks for your time and help.

I completely agree, since obviously the fluid is in the vapor phase inside the radiator, that gas would need to have a high heat capacity for better heat transfer (Q=mcaT) and the liquid would need to have a low boiling point as already mentioned in a low pressure environment. However, you'd have to accept the trade offs here since compared to liquid coolant, water vapor conducts heat very poorly, about 94% worse. And would need the vapor to immediately condense back for proper flow/heat transfer. All for the cost of no pump noise. I think it could be achievable, I don't know off the top of my head some probable organic species that meet these criteria but I'm sure there's similar properties.

I never removed my RAM from my motherboard and it's correctly installed

The motherboard is only around 3 months old and worked perfectly fine up until this issue occurred with great overclocking stability. Are there any diagnostic tools/kits out there to test if it actually is faulty?

Sorry for not being clear up that part, right now, the default/optimized settings are what's running right now without any boot issues, bsod's, etc. However, if I try to overclock it, even marginally, I start seeing the bsod, etc.

Hello guys, I need some input on what's happening with my Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7 motherboard!!! I wanted to decrease boot time on my gaming desktop*, so I enabled rapid mode on Samsung magician, and went into bios and enabled fast boot a while ago. I've overclocked this at 4.8 GHz at like 1.295 V and RAM at 3000 MHz at 1.22V with great system stability and benchmark scores relative to the hardware I'm using. So one day, I wanted to go back into the bios to change some settings again, but I couldn't access the bios by spamming del key because of fast boot enabled in bios (it skips some boot processes I guess), so I had to clear cmos by removing the battery to access the bios again; that part worked. However, since then, I've been getting a multitude of BSOD/system errors after I cleared CMOS, entered into the bios, and proceeded to change some settings in bios like overclocking, etc. Errors include: ATTEMPTED WRITE TO READONLY MEMORY FLTMGR.SYS SYSTEM THREAD EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED something like KERNEL SECURITY CHECK FAILURE, and more! These occurred once I booted from bios after changing clock speed and vcore, etc. I've also gotten the code CO on the debug display, I've always had 6F, meaning reserved and everything ran fine with that code. CO also means reserved, but why is it different now and displaying when I'm having all these troubles? Also, during gameplay, like Titanfall 2, the program stops working in the middle of a match. I haven't made any changes, hardware wise, or software wise. I've check device manager and shows no signs of bad drivers. SFC scanner did not find any integrity violations, intel's cpu diagnostic tool passed my cpu, memtest86 did not find any corruption and passed the test, etc. Ran chkdsk command and cmd didn't find any issues. Samsung magician reports the drive is in good condition and is on the latest firmware. I'm hoping someone else knows how to resolve this or at least experienced something like this before in this forum. I apologize in advance for the long paragraph, but I wanted to be specific about my problem. Thanks for all who can help, I really appreciate it! *Specs: i5-6600K, gigabyte z170x gaming 7, Kingston hyperx ddr4 4x8GB in dual channel, cryorig h7, asus gtx 1060 OC edition, Samsung 850 evo 1TB ssd, 550 w evga g2 80+ gold.

For some background info, I wanted to decrease boot time on my gaming desktop*, so I enabled rapid mode on Samsung magician, and went into bios and enabled fast boot a while ago. I've overclocked this at 4.8 GHz at like 1.295 V and RAM at 3000 MHz at 1.22V with great system stability and benchmark scores relative to the hardware I'm using. So one day, I wanted to go back into the bios to change some settings again, but I couldn't access the bios by spamming del key because of fast boot enabled in bios (it skips some boot processes I guess), so I had to clear cmos by removing the battery to access the bios again; that part worked. However, since then, I've been getting a multitude of BSOD/system errors after I cleared CMOS, entered into the bios, and proceeded to change some settings in bios like overclocking, etc. Errors include: ATTEMPTED WRITE TO READONLY MEMORY, FLTMGR.SYS, SYSTEM THREAD EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED, something like KERNEL SECURITY CHECK FAILURE, and more. These occurred once I booted from bios after changing clock speed and vcore, etc. I've also gotten the code CO on the debug display, I've always had 6F, meaning reserved and everything ran fine with that code. CO also means reserved, but why is it different now and displaying when I'm having all these troubles? Also, during gameplay, like Titanfall 2, the program stops working in the middle of a match. I haven't made any changes, hardware wise, or software wise. I've check device manager and shows no signs of bad drivers. SFC scanner did not find any integrity violations, intel's cpu diagnostic tool passed my cpu, memtest86 did not find any corruption and passed the test, etc. Ran chkdsk command and cmd didn't find any issues. Samsung magician reports the drive is in good condition and is on the latest firmware. I'm hoping someone else knows how to resolve this or at least experienced something like this before in this forum. I apologize in advance for the long paragraph, but I wanted to be specific about my problem. Thanks for all who can help, I really appreciate it! *Specs: i5-6600K, gigabyte z170x gaming 7, Kingston hyperx ddr4 4x8GB in dual channel, cryorig h7, asus gtx 1060 OC edition, Samsung 850 evo 1TB ssd, 550 w evga g2 80+ gold.

So I recently just built a gaming desktop and everything went fine, including the installation of Windows 10 and most motherboard drivers, except for the network driver/Ethernet controller. I'm using a gigabyte z170x gaming 7, a wired connection, Intel's latest network adapter driver (21.1), BIOS v F8, etc. I've even tried downloading realtek latest Ethernet controller driver and didn't work. Its been basically a game of uninstalling and reinstalling and restarting and trying different manufacturer network drivers and none seem to work. The pictures below might help with understanding this and yes, I did Google the hardware ID to see if there's an updated one and couldn't find anything. I really appreciate your guys' thoughts and advice on how to resolve this! Let me know if I need to include anything else! Thanks!