Thx And Bye

I'm not sure if that is something new or how it works with different systems then Windows 10 or different then nvidia GPUs.
(I just found out trying to search for a solution and tinkering around)
 
Go to the NVIDIA Control Panel
adjust desktop size and position
select your monitor
go to scaling and select "No scaling"
change the resolution in Windows to the resolution you want.
 
The Image should be displayed at the middle of the screen, with black bars around it.
 
Some monitors also support a setting, where they don't scale the image and I'm pretty sure that mine does.
Strangely the system always sends the native resolution to the display. That might be a new thing in Winodws or the nvidia driver. (the display does not go black, when changing the resolution)
That way, the display never gets a chance, to display a lower resolution with 1:1 scale. (since its already gets an upscaled image)

Pull will always be the best thing for easy dust cleaning since on push the dust would collect between fan and radiator.
But since there is a big air filter in the front, just mount the fans where they originally belong and mount the radiator on the other side.
Thats at least how I'd do it, just try it and look what works / looks best. Shouldn't affect performace anyways.
 
So that I can see you repied, you can either @Thx And Bye or quote me. Otherwiese I won't be notified.

If its a low profile PCI card, there are adapters for it:
(if its full height PCI, you are out off luck)
 

Try taking out the bios batttery, should reset the bios.

Check BIOS that they are not disabled. If not boot a live Linux USB or DVD and check if your ports are working there.
If they also don't work in Linux I'd say that the hardware is actually broken.

If you have a rather cheap model I'd suggest you to replace it. If you have a good model I'd only consider it if there is clear evidence that it has a problem.
If you decide to buy a new one look for SeaSonic oder SuperFlower PSUs. And you don't really need more then 550W. Probably a 450W one would fit your system very nice, but depeds on the model you want to buy, not every series has every wattage but 550W is pretty common.
Also consider the PSU Tier lists here in the forum or on the pcmasterrace reddit as a good source for a psu.
 
If you really want to be sure about a new psu, this site is the holy grail of PSU reviews:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/

Go to the Device Manager and look for devices that are not correctly detected.
Rightclick -> Properties -> Details -> Hardware IDs
Copy one of them to google and look up what device it is and go to the manufracturer from that chip/device and install the driver.
 
Get the GPU driver from the manufracturer too and not from Lenovo.
 
If you see no use in them, don't install them. If you do, install them. But at first always assume you need none of them.

Well if you don't tell me that you think this could've been caused by malware I'll assume that just the .dll is missing and the program(s) can't start.
Its the only and simplest conclusion you can come to if you don't know the whole story. And the only reason for the .dll to go missing is that the package was removed.

You can check for malware with malwarebytes -> https://malwarebytes.com
Also you can take a look if the file association for .exe is changed from its default.
Take a look here -> 
https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/1aekzf/i_accidentally_changed_all_exe_files_to_open_with/c8wofxd/
or if you can't open rededit
https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/1aekzf/i_accidentally_changed_all_exe_files_to_open_with/c8wola2/

First check that the card is inserted correctly, if it is just push the metal from the case to make it fit since its only a few mm.
Without the screw(s) you will run into problems especcially during transport.
Also note that your model might be affected: http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/

Does this only happen to a specific codec (H264, H265, VP8, etc. | not .mkv, mp4, etc) or is it random?
If its just a specific codec you should disable hardware acceleration for that one via the CodecTweakTool.
 
You can check detailed media informations with https://mediaarea.net/en/MediaInfo

Seems to be some kind of problem of windows then, that it doesn't even load the driver for the grafic chip since its the same with the Intel Grafics.
I'd suggest going to safe mode and remove all gpu drivers with DDU from your system that are currently installed.
 
When the driver are removed reboot and try to boot normaly (should load on low resolution, since no driver is installed)
If that works fine, the chance is high that you can just install the newest driver and are good to go.
If you still have the same problem first I'd suggest you try to boot a live linux and take a look if that works fine and save all of you data.
After that I'd suggest a reinstall of Windows and if you copy your AppData folder to your new system and reinstall the programms all stettings should be like you left them on the old system.
So with everything a reinstall should take less then 3h. But maybe someone else has an idea how to patch your old system back together, but I personally wouldn't try fixing for too long if a reinstall is the faster and cleaner solution.
 
To get to the AppData folder just go to your drive Users/[your username]/AppData and copy all three folders (Local, Roaming and LocalLow)
Just copy them back to the same path on the new installation.
 
Default setting for pretty much every bios is "Auto" so the iGPU is disabled if no display is detected and is automatically enabled if a monitor is attached.

Those temps are perfectly normal if you don't have a delidded chip. My liquid cooled 1.32v 4770k hits 65-70c in Witcher 3 with sub 40c liquid temp, which is why I'll be delidding this chip like every Haswell I've ever owned. So far I've just been too lazy to do so, but soon I'll re-do my entire loop so I won't have any excuses not to do it any more.
 
The TIM between the IHS and the CPU die isn't good but it isn't exactly horrible either. The problem is usually just bad contact. Delid the chip, get rid of the epoxy glue or whatever the gunk is they use to glue the IHS to the chip and then use liquid metal TIM between the IHS and the die, and be amazed by the temps you get. Delidding, when done right, is easy, safe and definitely worthwhile - especially with Haswell chips.

First check that the card is inserted correctly, if it is just push the metal from the case to make it fit since its only a few mm.
Without the screw(s) you will run into problems especcially during transport.
Also note that your model might be affected: http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/

Faulty powersupply, check all your connections and try with another one if you can.

You could always use NVFlash to reflash a BIOS but that comes with risks (like every BIOS flash).
 
But slightly different clock speeds are not unusual since GPU Boost doesn't always works 100% the same and the GPU's also most probably have different temperatures.
Even if they wouldn't they don't always have to match and it will help also with mico stuttering if they don't.
 
For exable with the stock BIOS and no OC my both 680s would run on 1175MHz and 1136MHz (ish) and they are in parallel in the same liquidloop and had the exact same temperature.
 
If you don't have any critical performance issues I would just leave is as it is.
 
Even tho they are EVGS SC cards i have flashed the stock 680 BIOS with 1006MHz base clock.
Like i said same cards, same cooling, same temperature, same voltage, same BIOS. But my current clocks with 3D Mark are 1084MHz and 1071MHz.
 

Go to your DisplayFusion Settings, go to Window Management and disable the top most setting "Enable maximised window dragging between monitors".

Try this: Connect the drive to a different pc and wipe it completely.
Then you connect it back to the pc you want to install it in and also connect the usb with windows.
Go to the BIOS and set boot priority: 1st the Harddrive and 2nd the USB with the windows install files on it.
Start the installing process.
 
What you have is, when after a reboot the pc boots from the usb stick again. That will (of cause) start the installer from zero.

Most probably a PSU problem, since it doesn't BSOD.
Might also be a temperature problem, but you can find that out very easy:
 
Does it automatically reboot?
Yes -> most probably the PSU
No -> might be a temperature problem

666.7MHz times two is 1333MHz. Thats why its called "double data rate" (DDR), because it transfers two logical 1 or 0 per clock cycle.
So you have nothing to worry about your RAM.

666.7MHz times two is 1333MHz. Thats why its called "double data rate" (DDR), because it transfers two logical 1 or 0 per clock cycle.
So you have nothing to worry about your RAM.

1 - remount your cooler
2 - revert the BIOS to default settings
3 - what PSU
4 - never tinker with OCs again

You have done no research on M.2 in any possible way.
 
M.2 Supports normal SATA interface and the PCIe interface.
Your mainboard only supports PCIe on the M.2 M.2/M-Key (PCIe 3.0 x4, 2280/2260/2242) and you have bought a SATA M.2 SSD M.2/B-M-Key (SATA 6Gb/s), so there is no way they can work together.
You either have to get a normal 2.5" SATA Samsung EVO or a M.2 SSD that supports PCIe. The Samsung 950 Pro for example.

There is no possible way to get detail from a video that has none, because it was already compressed and mobile sensors aren't really the best for low light anyways.
There are simply not enough informations stored in the videofile, to make that possible.
 
If you'd increase the birghtness you would just get a grainy video (that would already look like trash). If you'd try to get rid of the grain, you'd have no more details because of the smoothing. (that would even more look like trash, but would be brighter)
 

'MSX' to fuck with all of the mac people? I mean it's supposed to be long term anyway. 
Just a thought. 

No your Intel HD 4600 does not support 144Hz.
But you can run your 144Hz monitor with 60Hz anyways.