Casual Cube

3 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

tbh, even if it works, CRU (or any other work around) isn't really going to help much (if you are stuck at 1366 x 768). it might make UI elements smaller, but i think it will probably also make and everything else blurry thanks to the nonlinear scaling.

I think your best plan is an external monitor. If it helps, you can pickup 60hz 1080p monitors for as little as 80$ (US) atm. They won't be the greatest thing ever, but they'll be good enough.

Thanks a lot for taking the time!

3 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

From what I can find online some IdeaPad 330 came with 1366 x 768 displays. If you have one of those there isn't anything you can do.

 

To check if this is the case bring up "display settings" (right click on desktop on windows 10) and look at the options under "Display Resolution". If there are no options above 1366 x 768 then I think that means you have a 1366 x 768 display. (I might be wrong about this though, anyone got a second opinion?)

Yeah this might be the case. 
Im really hoping for some out of the box workaround to do a higher resolution. CRU was my best hope. I even got windows display setting to show higher resolutions, except its a black screen when trying that

Hi everyone, 
I have cheap laptop that I use to play eports and pixel games. 
Its a Lenovo ideapad 330. i5 8250U and a Radeon 530 gpu.

Problem:

My issue right now is the resolution; at 1366x768, there are scaling issues when playing a few of my games. 
The screen size too small and the in game menu's are too big at even maxed resolution. So it takes up a lot of space. I'm namely talking about PokeMMO.

Solutions Tried:

I have tried looking for ways to run my display at higher resolutions to solve scaling issues but nothing workd.

- Intel HD graphics says any res higher is unsupported.

- AMD Radeon Software plainly doesn't have a settings page for display because of "older model gpus"
- and I even tried using CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) to feed my computer new resolutions, but the screen is black when I attempt to run those resolutions from windows and within the game.

Are there any other workarounds for this? Its unplayable sometimes with all the menus and windows I have open and the scaling causes them to be so huge.

Any advice is appreciated, short of "get an external display". I would if I could but I can't at the moment.

Hi, I'm working on a project to repair a broken Samsung T55 32" Curved display. 
I don't have a power cord for it and will need to buy one, but before I invest into that I'd like to see how much it costs for a replacement panel for this particular model. 
The closest I got to filtering it is this. But I don't know how to confirm the model's name with my monitor.

Any help is appreciated thank you

I was wondering if its possible.
I have a second screen, but I want to utilize only the top half of it. 

I managed to resize the resolution, now I just wanna move it up on the screen *through the PC settings*.
Anyone know a way to do this?

So I have a couple games crashing on me, sometimes during heavy load, sometimes when simply doing an install or while just idling. (ARK, Valorant, Sea of Thieves, Apex Legends etc.)
I reached out to some of my community members and friends and there seems to be a consensus that it wasn't just the games that's acting up but also the PC itself which was built 7 years ago. I agree. 

However some of them said it could be a bad power supply. 
This baffled me. how can a power supply, that carries no data and only supplies pure voltage to the components cause games to crash? Is there such a thing? 
Granted it is a locally sourced part that came with my v. cheap case and it isn't exactly rated nicely or anything. But I can't wrap my head around how a psu can affect software. 

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Can't wait haha
and I just used the Microsoft Store App for Netflix ands the sound is awesome here too!
You helped me out just by pointing that out because now I can watch more than just the dvds I have in surround haha. Cheers man

3 minutes ago, HanZie82 said:

Seriously do not expect a browser to output surround, ive been using 6 channels speakers on PC for over 10 years. They DO NOT.
Not even Netflix. But they do have a windows App you can download from the store then you will get that sweet 5.1 goodness. And damn is it a difference.

It's just functions like these (as like multiple monitors) isnt used to much, so priority to fix is really low. So dont expect a full surround experience soon. Specialy since you use digital surround out, it wont even work in games. As Dolby live (what you need) is a payed program...

But just download some of those test files to your PC, and also make sure VLC is set up correctly to benefit from the extra sound channels.

Thanks for taking the time. I believe you are indeed right. These video sites don't in fact output surround. Which is a real shame. 
I'm gonna close up all my tabs I was doing research on 

This is my very first time using a surround system and its amazing. I have my dads old collection of blurays as well so I guess I'll be watching a lot of those to experience the surround speakers. I downloaded some of those trailers and they blew me away so I can't wait for these movies haha. 

Thanks again man, Enjoy!

7 minutes ago, HanZie82 said:

Ok first of Youtube DOES NOT have any surround. ITs Stereo or mono, nothing else.

Browsers mostly do not work with surround sound, just Stereo.

People will upload syurround material to youtube it just gets converted to Stereo at playback.

If you're able to download it and play it back using VLC or similar you will get the 6 channels.

That's weird because on all the forums, I keep seeing posts and even comments saying these tests net positive results. That there were launch parameters that can be used but it is unnecessary after Jan 2020.

I've already downloaded a "5.1 surround test" video from youtube and it was just a stereo file when I played it in vlc. Perhaps my method of downloading the video was just lossy.
I did run across a forum where someone uploaded a sample audio and when I played it (through the browser), it did indeed play in surround. Therefore, the browser does support it, its just depending on the websites method of deploying these files. Maybe its a YT/Netflix issue that I have. 

FIXED:
The surround speaker cables actually split into 2 copper heads each going into the AVR as "positive and negative" for each speaker. I was only swapping the "negative" cables but I was supposed to also swap the others.

Issue two however remains. I can't reproduce surround sound in the browsers

Hello to anyone seeing this
I have a pretty old PC running Win10. I just got some stuff from my dad, his old Sony TV and his Harman Kardon 5.1 AVR. 
I put one of the HDMI outputs from my GPU to the AVR input, then sent the AVR output to the TV.
Then configured the playback device to be 5.1 Surround and the AVR to 5channel auto.

I ran into two issues.
Funnily, the surrR and surrL speakers are mixed up. I'm using the configure menu to play sounds on each individual speaker for testing (image below). 
I tried swapping these weird exposed copper cables in the back between SL and SR multiple times but it doesn't output the right sounds still. These cables have no proper cable heads and just go into this hole in the back held in by a latch. There's one for every speaker labeled appropriately. 

The second issue is that when I tried playing a youtube surround test video, (similar sample testing videos), only L,R,C and the subwoofer show output. Chrome and Edge both ignore the surround speakers altogether (youtube, netflix etc).

I'm very new to home theaters and TVs altogether so please shed some light onto these matters if you have a sec please. Thank you!

 

1 hour ago, The_russian said:

Ok then... Huawei won’t let you view the manual or quick start guide without logging in with an account... anyway most routers have an option to set it up in Access Point mode. I don’t have any experience with Huawei routers though so I wouldn’t know where to find it in settings or if they even have such a mode.

So i digged up some stuff on how I can do that and did the following:

1: Reset
2: Change LAN IP to 192.168.1.200
3. Turned off DHCP (there were three tick boxes, not a single button)

what happened was that the router seems to crash. cant access the admin page, cant even connect because the IP seems to not be discoverable

I think I will dig up another router that I have in a box somewhere and try with that and maybe I'll have better luck

I've heard a lot of terms thrown around while looking into this but seems to be that I'm out of my depth here with networking. (not my specialty)
I have two Huawei routers. One spare from an old connection (HG8246H), and another that was set up for our wifi last week (HG8245W5).

My updstairs roommates can't access the wifi so I'm trying to use the spare to set up an Access point for them with an ethernet cable.

Could someone offer some help?

Edit: The main issue seems to be that the WAN page doesnt show me anything and doesnt offer any options to create either

7 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Some bios's come with secure erase built in.

Update, i goofed.

There is display, but its just not going through my Displayport, when I used HDMI to another monitor, I'm getting a display output. But the same BSD error, nothing changed except gpu not outputting to DP.
Going to reset now using installation media and see what happens

Would flashing the bios be of any help here? 

1 minute ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Kiss everything on that drive good bye.

Do a clean erase twice.

Re-install windows. 

How would I go about this?

Edit:

1 minute ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Do a clean erase twice.

Re-install windows. 

Fortunately, I keep backups and nothing vital at all is on my primary drive. Would my other drives be needing cleaning as well though? 

Hey guys, I messed up.
I got a software to repair my pc like delete junk files, defragment the disks, malware detection, driver updates etc. 
Though, when I restarted after this, it gave me a nice BSD.

Error Code: Inaccessible Boot Drive

I tried everything I could find without any success. 
A few notes: Registry backup /dir gave me 0 results and dism wouldnt do any /online commands
I finally got my roommates laptop to get myself a win10 installation media but before I reset and lost files, I tried a fix from here
It asked me to "load hive" in regedit under a "new key", edit some things to say 0, which it already was set to, then unload hive.

After this, I restarted and it got worse, no more display, black screen only. Cant access anything and my fears are worsening. I should've hit reset.

Any one with knowledge of these issues, please offer some advice. I may be in trouble here.
I'll do the best I can to provide information based on my memory of the past 6 hours

2 hours ago, Arika S said:

as always: depends on the game.

words can't describe how incredibly helpful you were, you num

thanks guys, seems to be the ryzen 2600 is a capable chip and it won't bottleneck a 2080Ti except in some cpu intensive games (obviously)

Seriously, how noticeable of a bottleneck would it be if I upgrade my GPU to a 2080Ti in my Ryzen 5 2600 PC?

Its currently a GTX1080 and with 16gb 3000Mhz CL15, enough power and pcie to back up the upgrade. Just wondering about the CPU

Edit: for 1440p 144Hz gaming in AAA and early access games

Thanks

53 minutes ago, 5x5 said:

Just buy now. There will always be something better coming in a couple of months so you'll be stuck waiting forever

actually I can only buy in a month or so because of access to a cheaper market etc. So If its good to go, great. but if another few weeks would make a difference, should I wait out those weeks?

16 minutes ago, Master Disaster said:

Afaik there's no 2080 ti Super coming. On the AMD side there's been rumours of Big Navi floating around but that's probably still months away.

 

The 2080 ti is still the king for now.

for how long would you say? 

Edit: by this I mean to ask if Nvidia is planning anything this last quarter or has leaked something 

Been out of the loop for a while, I dug my head into work and away from the PC. Think I have enough saved up for an upgrade though. Current GPU is a gtx1080 Armor with a corsair H80i v2 cooler fitted on. I think I wanna move to a 2080Ti for 1440p 144hz gaming, need high frames on my usual AAA games and other heavy hitters like ARK, minecraft, DXball, roadrash etc. the usual. 

BUT, usually i do a lot of research before I make decisions with a lot of money involved and my hands are halfway tied these days so I beg the question to you folks;

Is there some kind of "super" or other upgrade coming for the 2080Ti? Is there a consensus on it that I'm not aware of like "don't get it"? Did I completely miss an alternate option that might have come out recently perhaps an AMD or a leak etc? What are your recommendations for high frames in 1440p on things like witcher 3 and other new titles and upcoming ones? 

I thank you all for any reply you might leave behind. Sincerely, thank you guys. 

rest of the specs:

16gb 3000Mhz 15CL ram

Ryzen 2600 @ 4.2Ghz

on MSI B450M motherboard

1 hour ago, Def9Infinite said:

Ok thx. Right now having a 1080p but wanting to get a 2K monitor

2K is technically 1080p, 3k would be 1440p which I think you mean but the other commentors are nums or just playing with you to not realize this obvious mistake. (Vertical number of resolution times 2 is usually how you get the "k" number. 4k has 2000-something pixels vertically).

For a 1440p 144Hz to be utilized I would use a 2080 for the little bit of edge in fps (you wont get it on most AAA games) and it has the stronger feature of Ray Tracing. Easy choice

Edit: I would just stick to using the full resolution instead of the "k" branding, its only mostly used in marketing and for 4k

Hey guys, so a couple months ago I got myself a Kraken G12 with an H80i v2 for my GTX 1080 Armor OC. This, I feel, is an OP cooler for the task as my temps are literally never above 45c on load while my CPU goes upto 65/75. (picture below). I had some heating issues with the stock cooler where it would throttle after 82c on load. 

Now I have the opportunity to swap out the cooler, maybe use the H80iv2 on my Ryzen 2600 while I use something a little less overpowered and preferably with a bit more flexible tubing. These cables are so Tight I feel like I will tear them off or snap them off the block. Too much stress on the gpu for my comfort. Any users out there with a recommendation for a good 120mm AIO for a kraken+gtx1080? 

(my current cooler for the 2600 is a Wraith Prism which looks amazing but I might as well have the space H80iv2 on it if I replace the gpus cooler with a new one. I can only put this AIO around and mount it successfully in 1 place in two orientations)

Thoughts?