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ATFink

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    535
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About ATFink

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1996-04-27

Contact Methods

  • Origin
    lol... only for Crysis 3
  • PlayStation Network
    I don't even remember
  • Steam
    Adambomb
  • Twitch.tv
    Not disclosing
  • Twitter
    adamtfink1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver area of Colorado
  • Interests
    Gaming, Biking, Hiking, Building, Tinkering, Design, Welding, Tesla, SpaceX, Research, LTT, etc
  • Biography
    I don't see why anyone would care about my life just yet. Profile is still tiny.
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    i7 4790k @ 4.7 GHz
  • Motherboard
    ASUS z97-A
  • RAM
    4x8 GB 1600 MHz Corsair Vengence
  • GPU
    XFX RX 580 4GB
  • Case
    NZXT S340 Elite
  • Storage
    Evo 840 120 gb, Evo 840 240 GB, Crucial MX300 525 GB, and 1 Tb 7200 rpm Seagate
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850 80+ gold
  • Display(s)
    LG 29UM68-P
  • Cooling
    Corsair h100i
  • Keyboard
    Roccat Ryos MK FX
  • Mouse
    Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD6XX
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,342 profile views
  1. What song are you listening to right now.

    Aerials - System of a Down
  2. Which Motherboard is better ?

    Of the two options you provided go with the Tomahawk. They did a pretty damn good job with this board in particular (except no offset voltage... no AM4 MSI boards supports offset voltage to my knowledge). Tomahawk has decent VRM cooling (Look at the ASUS board's VRM heatsink... it's basically a flat plate. It will SUCK) Tomahawk has a BIOS flash back button (you can upgrade the BIOS with just ATX 12V. Good if you upgrade to Ryzen 3000, 4000, etc.) If you have a heavy GPU the Tomahawk has a reinforced PCIE slot that'll permit less GPU sag. IMO the Tomahawk is one of the best b450 boards. If it supported offset voltage it absolutely would be the second best b450 board next to the MSI b450 pro carbon with wireless ac antenna. Since MSI doesn't support offset voltage with its AM4 lineup it's a tossup. If you have a Ryzen CPU that doesn't end in X (2600X, 2700X, etc. are examples of Ryzen CPUs that do end in X so not these) go with the MSI motherboard for sure (offset voltage is important when adjusting precision boost overdrive voltages... important with CPUs that end in X). Why? The Pro4 has a 3 + 3 phase VRM. The Pro4 also has the least number of capacitors I've seen on any b450 board (5 not including SOC side). That could be a problem when trying to regulate voltage ripple. The Tomahawk has a 4 + 2 phase VRM with 7 capacitors (not including SOC side). The Pro4 is good for b450, but I don't think it's as good as the Tomahawk (specifically when looking at b450 boards). If you want a Raven Ridge CPU (on board VEGA) go with the Pro4 since it has a 3 phase SOC VRM (good for onboard graphics) and better onboard graphics support as well, but what makes it better than the Tomahawk for non Raven Ridge Ryzen? Higher memory frequency support? You can still get to 3200 MHz with the Tomahawk and really returns above 3200 MHz are not very great. Not to mention memory kits that'll do above 3200 MHz are expensive. What am I missing? Unfortunately AsRock and MSI are practically competing in a battle for the clunkiest BIOS. AsRock wins with the worst user friendly experience, but MSI sure puts up a good fight. TLDR: Go with the Tomahawk if you have a dedicated GPU. Go with the Pro4 (or other AsRock board) if you have a 2200G or 2400G.
  3. If you have a kid, what would you name it?

    Boy: BOY Girl: BOY
  4. Am i screwed?

    Still, 75C is really not terribly hot for a laptop. Warm? Sure. Concern? Absolutely not. BTW, 90C = 194F... which is starting to get pretty hot.
  5. How smart is Linus?

    Less people would watch the video. This same logic is why many people develop opinions by just reading headlines...
  6. Ryzen 2600 no post

    Step 1: Check PSU If you have a multimeter you should first test your PSU to make sure it's not killing your hardware in case the PSU is bad. DO THIS FIRST IF NOT DONE ALREADY! If you ruled out th PSU, continue: I assume you know what posting is and the basics of building computers... but I don't know what you do and do not know, so just in case: Step 2: Check video output Is the video output your plugged into the video output on your motherboard or the video output on your GPU? If youu are not plugged into the GPU change to video output to the GPU. Assuming you are plugged into the GPU video output, continue: Step 3: Observe posting behaviour Does the computer attempt to boot immediately followed by shutdown and no second boot or does it boot, stay booted, and just not display any video output? If it shuts down immediately after attempting to boot and it doesn't turn back on, continue to step 4: If it stays booted stop here, it is posting but there is likely something wrong with the display output. Problem is likely the GPU assuming you're plugged into the GPU's video output. I guess it could be bad drivers, but I'm no expert. If it's stuck in a bootloop where it tries to boot, shuts down, attempts automatically to boot again and repeats this action continuously god help you because I certainly can't. Step 4: Clear CMOS Step 5: Check RAM Have you tried booting with an individual stick of ram on all 4 slots (If this doesn't work cycle to another stick of ram and try again)? If this works for one stick of RAM and not the other, RMA the RAM. The manufacturer will replace it for you. If you have cycle between all possible RAM configurations and the booting issue continues continue to step 6. Step 6: Make sure you haven't messed up CPU seating or cooling (Make sure you have thermal paste on hand for this step!) If your CPU cooler came with a film cover on the metallic portion that touches the CPU, remove this (don't mistake this with pre-applied thermal paste in case the cooler came with it). Either way, once you remove your CPU cooler you will need to clean the contact surfaces (both CPU and cooler) with 75% or better isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) with q-tips and the isopropyl. Take the CPU out of the motherboard and reseat the CPU. Reapply the thermal paste. You will experience extreme overheating and quick shutdowns that will eventually damage your CPU after repeated boot attempts if you do not reapply thermal paste (to the CPU heat spreader only). Mount the CPU cooler and repeat step 5. If you are still having problems you probably have a faulty motherboard. Maybe the motherboard needs a BIOS update (although you're using b450... not b350 so it should work out of the box with ryzen 2000)? Unfortunately I don't know a surefire way to verify motherboard integrity without a second motherboard that is known to work on hand. Regardless I am an amateur, this simply how I would go about checking my own PC hardware. I've fortunately never had the need to go through these steps myself. If anyone finds an issue with this post please quote and correct me.
  7. 75hz IPS 29" Ultrawide VS 24" 144hz TN

    That's a tough one. I have a 29" 2560x1080 monitor that has freesync (LG 29UM68-P), so I may be able provide some more insight. Here are some things to consider with ultra-wide panels: - With 21:9 you can comfortably open two windows side by side without the contents of either window looking compressed. This is great when multi-tasking. When I'm researching I can leave notes or the paper I'm typing on one side of the screen while using the other side to look up material. 21:9 is great for media consumption as well. The wide format means you can watch movies as they were meant to be played. The black bars on 16:9 content really is not aggravating at all since videos are not compressed. - Games (with proper developer support) look amazing. Seriously, the wide format does provide better viewing angles and makes games feel more immerse. Unfortunately not all developers seriously consider the extra width, like Bethesda's fallout 4 and skyrim, and do not natively support 21:9. I use either nexus mod manager or flawless widesrceen to fix games with non-native support. The Nexus mod manager fix (TruBy9) is a TERRIFIC fix for both skyrim and fallout 4. Other games (especially competitive online games like CS:GO) purposely do not implement expanded viewing angles and use different manners of screen compression/stretching to prevent an FOV advantage. In short many games are not nearly as plug-n-play with 21:9 as they are with 16:9, but depending on what you play the extra effort to integrate 21:9 support can be well worth it. - FPS will be 75% as fast on the 21:9 monitor at 1080p than a normal 16:9 1080p panel in games. If you were going to max out the panel's 75 Hz refresh rate anyways this doesn't really matter. I have a 4GB RX 580 and it has no problem maxing out the 75 Hz panel in almost all games (after tuning in game settings). At that price point you should also consider 1440p. 1440p does look very nice. At this price point you won't find any 1440p panels with a refresh rate greater than 60 Hz, but that's not far off from the 75 Hz you will see with the ultra-wide panel. I prefer the 21:9 aspect ratio over the added pixel count in 1440p or the increase in refresh rate from 75Hz -> 144Hz, but that's just my opinion.
  8. First Time Pc Build

    The s340 is a good case but it is not worth $95 at all. Normally people complain that it's starved for air, but the x62 CLC should cover that issue. Maybe consider a Phanteks Eclipse P400S instead. If you want the black and red theme this is a better option IMO: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854053&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= Honestly I think the P400S is a better case than the s340 and it's generally sold at a competitive to better price to boot. Change the 500GB 850 evo ($134) to 500GB 860 evo ($90). You save money and get a better performing SSD. Otherwise the list looks pretty good to me (assuming you have a spare hard drive you plan on throwing in the system for more storage). If you're planning to OC maybe consider Buildzoid's comments about motherboard selection in this video:
  9. I didn't say your prices didn't make sense. I was just a little confused about why some of the Euro prices you posted had the Euro : US dollar ratio close to 1:1. For example: The 21% VAT clears that up mostly. Really interesting that the retail price is so high in Europe though. Unfortunately that's just the way it is. I don't know enough about international trade to begin to comprehend why that's the case, so whatever I guess? Thanks for the clarification and the news. Interesting to see that Intel is finally going to solder (some of) their CPUs.
  10. 1 US dollar = 0.854429 Euro = 21.994482 Czech Koruna i9 9900K: 13990 Kč = $635.98 = 543.42 € i7 9700K: 10990 Kč = $499.60 = 426.89 € i5 9600K: 7490 Kč = $340.49 = 290.94 €
  11. H110M-K + ryzen 5 2600

    Do you have a PCPartPicker list for your build? We can help if you give us an idea of what you want to do with your computer and a budget. I'd be happy to help and attempt to answer any questions you have as well. If you don't know what PCPartPicker is just Google it and use their site. It's a great resource to find deals on compatible PC components.
  12. I'm an absolute noob with regards to VMs, sorry in advance. I also wasn't sure whether to make this a windows topic or a linux topic... Anyways, currently the Ubuntu VM updates at like 10-12 fps or something in that range. I think this is caused by the OS virtualizing the hardware to run the VM rather than running the VM with the CPU and GPU directly. I updated integration services in hopes this would help. It did not. Is this normal? If so is there a way I can speed up the VM? Here is what I have done so far in detail: I downloaded the Ubuntu 18.04.1 LTS .iso file and booted it through Hyper-V. I used the installation feature to write the OS to a virtual hard disk (as opposed to the virtual dvd drive the .iso file boots into). I edited the VM settings through Hyper-V manager to give the VM 2 threads and 4 GB of ram to work with. I updated integration services using this command in the terminal: sudo apt-get install linux-tools-virtual linux-cloud-tools-virtual I rebooted the VM I ran this command in the terminal: sudo pico /etc/initramfs-tools/modules I added the following lines in the whitespace beneath the initial text layout: hv vmbus hv storvsc hv blkvsc hv netvsc I saved the changes. I updated initramfs with the following line of code: sudo update-initramfs -u I rebooted the VM. I closed the VM. I double checked to make sure all services offered in the integration services tab of the VM in Hyper-V manager were checked. I booted the VM.
  13. Sub 800 dollar pc build suggestions

    Both cases have a very similar foot print. The case in the build I created is 6.89"x14.17"x13.86" (WxDxH) while the case in your build is 8"x13"x12.6" (WxDxH).
  14. Sub 800 dollar pc build suggestions

    I have not read any reviews about your selected motherboard specifically, but mITX boards rarely have as good VRM cooling as ATX or mATX boards. AsRock and MSI AMD boards typically have better VRM cooling than Gigabyte especially since you're not looking at Gigabyte's AORUS lineup. MSI has easier BIOS navigation, but AsRock typically works better with booting higher memory speeds. Higher memory speeds = better with Ryzen... Memory frequency/2 = Infinity fabric speed. Infinity fabric (IF) is an interconnect between some of the cores in Ryzen CPUs, so faster IF means lower latency between some communications and higher framerate. I suggest you use a b450 (or better) motherboard and a 2000 series R5 or better CPU so you can use StoreMI. Basically it links your SSD and HDD in software and uses the SSD as if it were giant cache drive to make everything on the HDD feel way more snappy (upon a couple uses). StoreMI is free and works with a 2000 series Ryzen processor and 400 series chipset motherboard. The 2000 series CPUs (r5 and better) work better with supporting RAM (better IMC) and can sustain higher fps than 1000 series Ryzen CPUs. Here are video instructions about how to set up and use StoreMI (start @7:17): ***IMPORTANT NOTE*** Windows must be installed on the HDD to use StoreMI... Don't put Windows on the drive that will act as the cache drive (it's not technically cache... StoreMI is tiered storage). I suggest getting a copy of windows 10 from eBay from a seller with a high user score and lots of reviews. Here is how to install windows without an install disk: Here is a list I generated with these considerations: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vp2t9J If you have a microcenter near you pick up the parts I custom listed from microcenter, otherwise pick the cheapest online retailer option (I think it adds ~$3 to the list).
  15. $2,000 General Use/Gaming Build

    With a $2000 build there is a lot lot of improvement you can make elsewhere by saving money and getting an AMD CPU (unless you have a specific use case for Intel of course). Here's a list with AMD: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WBN4gw Here's a list with Intel: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zb43RJ If you compare the two lists you'll notice I could squeeze a gtx 1080 ti into the the AMD build, but could only manage a gtx 1080 in the Intel build at a similar price. Maybe you want Intel for reasons outside of gaming, but from a pure gaming perspective an r5 2600 + gtx 1080 ti will almost universally beat i7 8700k + gtx 1080 framerates ESPECIALLY since you want a resolution >1080p. AMD's StoreMI (since I chose an X470 board) should give the AMD build a better storage situation as well. If you don't know what StoreMI is, check this out: Either list you go with I think you get a better deal than the original post.
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