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JLCitadel

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Everything posted by JLCitadel

  1. Depends on your time and energy. I'd just say F it and be without an f5 key. I use the click to refresh for browsers anyhow like an old man.
  2. good idea. I also decided to run a malware test just the basics and it came back with 22 results (below) I'm about to run league and see how that works. Should that not prevail I'll try another cable.
  3. Relatively new build from Summer 2021. All fresh parts with the exception of my EVGA GTX 980. Computer is soft brownscreening when I play league of legends. No overheating. Room is cool, parts aren't stressed. I play on low settings anyhow. It's inconsistent as well, I can play for 5 minutes and itll do it twice then i can play for hours and it wont do it. My immediate thought since there's been zero change to my setup since this started happening is that my GPU is kicking it. The screen goes brown on my monitor and i can still hear everything and talk to people. So it seems display driven. I planned on getting a 4xxx series GPU but.. I was hoping my champion would keep on keeping on. Any ideas on what else it could be? OS Name Microsoft Windows 10 Pro N Version 10.0.19044 Build 19044 Other OS Description Not Available OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation System Name ----------------------------- System Manufacturer ASUS System Model System Product Name System Type x64-based PC System SKU SKU Processor AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 6-Core Processor, 4200 Mhz, 6 Core(s), 12 Logical Processor(s) BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. 2403, 6/16/2021 SMBIOS Version 3.3 Embedded Controller Version 255.255 BIOS Mode UEFI BaseBoard Manufacturer ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. BaseBoard Product TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) BaseBoard Version Rev X.0x Platform Role Desktop Secure Boot State Off PCR7 Configuration Binding Not Possible Windows Directory C:\WINDOWS System Directory C:\WINDOWS\system32 Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume2 ----------------------------- Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "10.0.19041.1806" ----------------------------- ----------------------------- Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 32.0 GB Total Physical Memory 31.9 GB Available Physical Memory 25.5 GB Total Virtual Memory 36.7 GB Available Virtual Memory 28.9 GB I do use a cracked version of windows and I have not scanned for Malware. Any chance it could be software related?
  4. I recognize the MC but can't recall from where. Gave it a solid search to no avail. My apologies for failing you.
  5. I'll be candid and say it's extremely apparent. I can immediately tell the difference between anything 4K and below. Same with anything under 144hz refresh rate. Same with anything above 1-2ms response time. I've got more displays kicking around then most people and it's very apparent to me. I'd also argue your average consumer can tell. They can tell somethings off but if you ask them what they'll shrug and give you a guess or say they cant put their finger on it. I can absolutely agree with you on 8K though. I've tried my best but I can't tell the difference between 4k and 8k in a blind test. It's also worth mentioning that I think they generally tie better tech to newer TV's IE OLED. Which also makes a substantial difference and blurs the lines in the conversations. I've one is interested in upgrading from LED to OLED then they might as well do 4K and not upgrade ever again. The LG C2 Tv is a end game product for your general consumer IMO.
  6. Was able to figure it out with a clear head quite quickly and easily. Just downloaded to desktop / extracted / Ran as administrator Clicked on the square in the top left that looked like a cmd icon of sorts, selected the file directory of the other windows version, and ran it. Got the product ID and key no problem.
  7. Trying to figure out how to use it.
  8. Quick details: Bought OEM version of Windows 7. Threw out CD case. (I know, I know.) Upgraded to Windows 10 for free, no issues. X years go by I build a new PC - accidentally use old PSU cables for old hard drive / ssd, doesn't work so i set aside for later. I download and install windows 10 on my new M.2 drive using the free version. I finally got around to installing my old drives with proper cables. I'm still using my M.2 drive as the boot with the free version. I am using a new motherboard. How can I find my windows key on my old drive and see if it will work? I know it's supposed to be in the sys32/config folder, but not sure how to make the files readable? Do I somehow use regedit to access the older database? Should I just try to boot into it and see what the key is? [Old drives weren't listed in boot devices in BIOS so gotta figure out why]
  9. I'm honestly not surprised, but I'm disappointed he's considering it seriously. The things I'd rather see Linus do: Donate it to charity. Pay for his children's college. Buy Luke, who is by and large a huge reason for the success of early LTT and a reason Linus is where he is today, a nice home or give him a fat chunk of change. I feel like he's always gotten the short end of the stick for all his work because he's so nice despite the endless sleepless nights he put in for most of the early years. Use it to pay for builds for LTT fans. Start a new series, where you build a computer with a fan for under $1,000 and they get to keep it. You recoup partial cost like you would with the TV videos, maybe turn a profit, and start a dope trend of giving back to the people who have brought you your success. I know these alternatives are all colored from my own personal opinions, but damn man. I'm disappointed. I'm not saying Linus doesn't deserve to spend his money how he wishes, he's absolutely busted his ass for year beyond measure, but I just think it's wasteful and he could do so much better while also getting a baller ass TV for like $15K instead.
  10. Well I've been living in NYC for over 8 years now, and I've had to move every year. I'd like something easier to bring around when that time comes, I'd also like to (more importantly) be able to bring my gaming pc with me to a friends, my s/o's, or my familys place, and plug it in and set it up while plugging in two controllers for steam big picture mode. I've always been a competitive gamer, but I'm starting to really enjoy just casual gaming with friends / family. Life is a lot less stressful and more fun this way.
  11. Budget (including currency): $1000 USD, flexibility is $100. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, potentially low level modeling in CAD. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I'm using a 1920x1080 144hz monitor, I have the EVGA GTX980 already from an old build and don't plan on upgrading it. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($299.00 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($54.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-I GAMING Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Patriot Viper Elite 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Sabrent Rocket Q4 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($140.00 @ Newegg Sellers) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4 GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($87.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Cooler Master V SFX Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($135.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1062.89 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-07 15:29 EDT-0400 This is the build I've put together to fit in an ITX format. My primary concern is graphics card clearance and build temperatures. I bought and assembled a new build inside an M-ATX case (a day ago) and I'm extremely happy with the performance and size.. However I think I can get equal performance, if not better, for the same price in a smaller form factor. I bought all the parts in person at my local B&H, however they've got a fantastic 30 day return policy for all products. I'm thinking of returning it all to put together this build above. I think I'd be extremely happy with it. I'm also selling my old i7 4790k build to a friend for $375, it includes everything but a GPU and storage. I looked up all the parts and prices on ebay, went with lowest or close to it, then took off 20%, if you think this is a fair price let me know. i7 4790k - $75 -> $90 Corsair H100i- $35 MSI Z97 SLI Krait - $150 Hyper X 8Gb Dual Channel - $30 x 2 = $60 Seasonic 750w PSU - $75 CDROM Drive - $5 Fractal Design Define R4 - $75 $465 - 20% = $375
  12. Post two near price equivalent builds, have people decide which one they would pick and state why. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/s3rTy4 or https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DDtjF8 Personally, I built the second setup and I'm very happy with it. The drawbacks: I only have a stock cooler, but it's actually performing insanely well? Very surprised. Benefits? It felt like I had a lot more options with the motherboards, and this made me feel like they would have a lot more around if I needed replacements down the road. I think I overspent on the FireCuda, but then again, I've read nothing but good news about its reliability and the Sabrent I've seen nothing but issues for online. Memory wise? I just went with what gave me the best bang for the buck that I could pickup instock same day at my local B&H. Package theft is a real problem in my building so I was looking to avoid that kind of issue. They also have an amazing (Not shilling I promise) 30 day no questions return policy. Great for RMA's if parts aren't working. I could have definitely gotten the 750w MPG, but it didn't come up on the B&H website when I did my search initially. (Not sure why, I probably glossed over it.) Building in the Q300L was pretty nice. I definitely should've confirmed which brackets i needed to remove for my GPU.. I also should've put the GPU in AFTER wiring up everything else.. God my hands aren't small enough to fit between that powersupply and GPU but I figured it out somehow. Which build would you pick from the two I've listed, and why? Post two comparable builds of your own and see what people pick.
  13. Wheres the spreadsheet? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Smj5dh97n32wJqm5dkdDcQt8ID7vH52-lKzaaXUUQx8/edit#gid=741394377
  14. Not sure about tech but I have a broken LGA 1150 motherboard you're welcome to if you take care of the shipping.
  15. These are the only four boards I've been able to find that are: ITX Support the 5600X and are sold at B&H https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/NQ7p99,NqsnTW,rhrYcf,9pn8TW/ Am I misunderstanding some compatability issues? I Dont see why this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1422991-REG/msi_b450i_gaming_plus_ac.html and similar boards wouldn't work?
  16. Is there a reason there's no information on these boards? https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/NQ7p99,NqsnTW,rhrYcf,9pn8TW/
  17. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the tips.
  18. Thank you. I'm glad to know this is the case.
  19. I see, thank you for chiming in. I'd be curious to see if anyone here has experience updating the BIOS without using a CPU that already works on the motherboard.
  20. I don't see how Strix is relevant here? I linked the board of consideration above.
  21. Why does it say the B550 will need a Bios update for a 5600X? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($299.00 @ B&H) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($149.00 @ Amazon) Total: $448.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-03 18:59 EDT-0400
  22. I'm not well read up on motherboard lineups at the moment and got confused. Right now I'm trying to do research on the B550 vs X570 offerings and prices to see if there's some features here I might like that would incentivize switching to AMD.
  23. What difficulties do you find yourself running into with AMD processors?
  24. What I've found thus far: 11600K mildly out performs 5600X Current pricing puts the i5 $20 cheaper. Z590 motherboard availability is low and options are scarce, putting the pricing around $40 higher on average than its A520 counterpart. It seems like it will boil down to additional features such as: m.2 support, PCIE 4.0 vs 3.0 support, built in WiFi, and thermals. The 11600K runs hotter (albeit the difference is slimmer than 11900K vs 5900X). Even with all that factored in, it comes down to within a few dollars of each other, unless there's something I'm missing. In conclusion the 5600X is the superior option if the lower average temperature will yield a longer lifespan from the motherboard, and if greater motherboard availability will yield better repair/replacement options down the road. However, I doubt it seeing as I have a 4790K (an extremely common socket at the time of purchase) and motherboard replacement options are far and few between. I've purchased a 11600K and was looking for reasons to exchange it (I haven't picked it up at the store yet) for a 5600X, but I'm falling short. Anyone care to chime in on details I'm missing?
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