Archmage

16-18-18 could be a b-die at 3600mhz. I havent seen any 3600 kit that can do tRCD that low. Only Samsung B-die and Micron Rev E 8Gbit (with decent binning) or some CXMT die can do that. DJR won't do that, DJR is usually do 3600 17-21-21 1.35v. DJR is the next best thing after Micron Rev E and Samsung B-die, so yeah. Maybe Samsung D-Die can do that. I have some ADATA XPG D41 that came with 3200 16-20-20 as XMP Profile #2 (#1 is 3600 18-22-22). Thaiphoon report was Micron 8GB Rev E, but when i try 16-20-20 on my garbage bin 5600X (can't even do 1900 FCLK, 1933 FCLK booted but spit out WHEA error), it won't boot to windows even with 1.45V or 1.5V VDIMM. Probably Spectek 8GBit Rev E but somehow get good enough binning to be called Micron. Or Micron just forgot to write Spectek info on them.

Turn on A-XMP/DOCP. If there is any XMP Profile #2 (usually 3600 RAM will came with 2 XMP Profiles) use #2 because your 2600X won't able to drive 3600mhz RAM, so XMP #2 is usually a 3200 profile for compatiblity reason. I need to know what exact DRAM dies you are having, so i can make you some proper timing for your kit. I suspect you are having a B-die kit if your timing is something like 3600 16-16-16 or 3600 16-18-18

Yes. But all of the full ATX board are reaching entry level Z690 like Z690 UD DDR4, MSI PRO Z690-P DDR4. I really consider getting a Z690 at this point (for extra slots and features). Most people won't need a full ATX board. mATX is the sweetest spot for price/performance.

Best price/performance midrange board: MSI B660M Mortar DDR4 (12 powerstages 60A, solid UEFI, decent in-house RGB software) Alternative: TUF B660(M) Plus, B660M Aorus Pro, B660(M) Steel Legend (all of these have wifi option with WIFI or AX tag on the name) But this also work with a 12400 (as budget option) Best overall: MSI PRO B660M-A (absolutely madness, this depends on the market, it might cost higher than anything else below, but if this thing cost less than anything below, GET IT) ASRock B660M Pro RS, Gigabyte B660M DS3H (D2H, D3H Gaming, Gaming X, wifi with AC/AX variant is the same board), Prime B660-A. AVOID: ASRock B660M HDV If it was a BOXED unit, it should came with a stock cooler (which has a copper slug, just like the black stock from i7-i9 10th gen and the whole non-K 11th gen lineup). The performance is a-okay, gaming is fine, but if you need a sustain cooler for rendering or stuff, get an aftermarket. Here is the recommendation: - ID-Cooling SE-214-XT (ARGB): Probably the best overall in term of price/performance. It cost around $20 for the ARGB version (depends on markets), 4 heatpipes, rated at TDP 180W, 120mm fan with (ARGB fan if you bought the ARGB version), it came default with a LGA1700-compatible mounting bracket. - CoolerMaster Hyper 212: Yeah, everyone favourite for cost effective if you can't find any better option. Anything 3-4 heatpipes tower with a 120mm and compatible mounting bracket should be able to tame the 12400.

As the title. Can't find Strix X570-E or TUF X570-PRO WIFI II locally here so I intended to replace the AC9260 that came with my X570-PLUS WIFI (that's also cheaper cuz AX201 module is like $30 on the market, and I don't wanna waste a PCIe slot for the thing I already have onboard, just wanna upgrade it). AC9260 included with the X570 PLUS WIFI has pretty bad Bluetooth cuz I can't connect 4 DS4 controllers simultaneously, 2-3 are fine but not 4. So I wanna replace it with AX200 or AX201 or AX211 if possible.

Price hiking up due to it's ability to mine ETH and other cryptocurrency. Currently in my market, 1660 Super price is higher than 2060 due to its higher hashrate on ETHash. (34-36mh/s with some bios mod or proper config idk). 3060 is around $800-900 depend on model, and 3060ti started at $900 and usually around $1000-1050 for high end SKU like ROG Strix, Aorus, Gaming X. Cost price is way lower (around 20-30% lower) but the bundling that distributor made is the reason GPU pricing on retail market is so high. The bundling is ridiculous. I will listed some here for you guys to understand how ridiculous it is. - GPU bundled with boards. B560/Z590/Z690 board depends on how high GPU was. (1650 + B560, 2060 + double the amount of B560, 3000 series + Z590/Z690 board) - GPU bundled with PSU. Ratio usually 1 to 5. - GPU bundled with PCIe riser, NVMe SSD external closure, chassis fan (really expensive one) - GPU bundled with RAM. Ratio usually 1 to 30-50. - GPU bundled with SSD. Ratio usually 1 to 30-50. Boards, PSU, RAM, SSD are usually sell at cost price or a loss. Apparently, GPU was sold out even it still on a shipment from Taiwan or Hong Kong.

I have one on hand. As I'm working for a computer shop. GALAX RTX 2060 PLUS. They do mark the 12GB VRAM tho. Won't reveal cost price. Local retail price: $680. $20 rebate if bundling with a Silverstone VIVA 750W (retail@$80) P/s: Profit margin is usually 10%, you can calculate yourself ideal/logical cost price.

Get the RX 570, best price/performance for the budget. I will do the math for you. This price is pretty high compared to other regions (570 4gb is $135 here, 580 is $170, $20-30 more for 8gb variant and don't mind the 1060, it is still overpriced here) 1060 laying between 570 and 580. 580 give around 13% more performance than RX 570 (for 25% more in price) GTX 1660 is somewhere around the previous gen 1070. You can get the 1660Ti for $290 in other regions. Conclusion: RX 570 for best price/performance ratio, 1660ti for the best balance between price/performance ratio and power consumption. Yes. It would work very well, and it gonna be a beast in price/performance ratio.

I dunno how much you OC-ed your 6700K, but since you are not familiar with what is happening, I will assume you running your 6700K at stock or mainboard auto OC feature. 6700K will uses around 120W at 4.4ghz (most mobos targeted this clock speed for their auto-OC profiles) 980Ti having a TDP rated at 250W, and with 8+6pin connection, it will eat up maximum 300W from your 12V rail. So you will need a PSU with 500W on the 12V rail (maybe a little bit more for more headroom). So a 600W PSU. (a 'good enough' 600W usually have at least 500W on 12V. Usually, more than 500W, some reach almost 600W) Use the tier list somewhere else on the forum and choose one in at least B tier if you are in budget. And if you are already have something good enough, then no need to worry about PSU.

Yes. It will works and works fine. You can OC the RAM if you are able to and your RAM is good enough for OC.

The only issue I can google about Z370M D3H is a thread about fan control and XMP profile, which is can be fix with BIOS update. And you can OC with any Z370. The problem isn't you can OC or not, it's how much you can OC. If you want the best p/p board for OC and especially RAM OC, get the ASRock Z370 Extreme4.

i5 8600K won't run on B250 8600K and B250 also LGA1151 but not compatible, thanks to Intel greedy strategy. Intel marked 8600K as LGA1151v2, you will need a new motherboard. Only 300 series. Definitely have to go for a Z370. And you planning for a unlocked K one. So Z370 is the way to go.

Update: Reflash bios in DOS and it worked. Why am I didn't think about that earlier

Does USB 3.0 stick cuz the problem that I can't re-flash BIOS? I haven't tried with USB 2.0 yet. I plugged to 2.0 front panel port. I read MSI tutorial about flash BIOS with bootable DOS USB but they said USB 2.0 in their pdf. And yes, I can boot from anything. Can even boot to Windows. But it have to be the first boot (F2 to continue to boot, not going to setup and override boot option).

The title said it all. I have do some tests (RAM checked, CPU checked, GPU temporary removed, using IGP for now) to make sure everything is okay but the motherboard. I figured out that when I unplug the power cord, remove the CMOS battery, leave it for 30s-1min, reinstall CMOS battery (power button/jumper won't work without CMOS battery) it can POST again, and only that POST. No splash screen at all, just a black screen with test code at the corner (got A2, which means normal). I tried to reconfigure BIOS to my use (even default one) but it can't POST after a reboot. I found some people got same problem and they said it fixed after reflashing BIOS. Trying with a FAT32 USB stick with 4 BIOS version from MSI homepage but nothing work. My UEFI not even showing the flashing process screen. It freezed right after I choose the BIOS file. I can save the BIOS file (attachment and it included original file from MSI) and it seems corrupted (6mb vs to original one that 16mb) E7798IMS.zip