LOST TALE

I've gone through 4 Logitech F310s and for me personally it's the best budget controller feelwise. The triggers and sticks are tight and the buttons are decent. After a year or so of hard use the tolerances become sorta shitty and it starts annoying me so I replace it but IMO it's either the F310 or you need to move up a tier to Xbox 360 controller / Xbox One controller / Dualshock. Of course if you need vibration then that's where the F310 falls short but on the flipside it's lighter because it doesn't have vibration motors.

oh right now I get what you meant... yeah u see the action happening on your screen all the while the game is still calculating stuff server side,and may not even received your signal yet, which can lead to things like you're doing a headshot but the target already moved (some time ago) and the headshot doesn't actually count therefore, the target is still standing despite you're getting a clear headshot...
 
I've seen this lol. 
 
That all depends on netcode and how each game handles this stuff individually ,so this differs a lot between games and genres I guess.
 
Though it's still latency, just not display latency, which I didn't specify iirc, I just said overall latency/ lag/ however you wanna call it. 
 
 

anyone know how much more the MLCC caps cost each? considering asus put 6 of them on the tuf i have to wonder.

Aside from the FE and Asus models, all other RTX 3080 cards seem to be consistently crashing at 2000Mhz+ core clock speed. Actually, people here in the forum are already complained about crashes on the FE model. To add salt to the injury, a leak from the GALAX roadmap shows that a 3080 with 20gb VRAM is coming, and likely very soon (as well as a RTX 3060).
 
Now... ask yourself, once these cards are out, how much do you think your 10gb model will be worth? Not to mention that it will be bottlenecking your card's raw power rather sooner than later. The new consoles are raising the graphical bar, so don't go expecting to be safe with 8-10gb VRAM, because you won't be. It's the 1060 3gb and 6gb dilemma all over again. Thinking that you may need the extra VRAM more in 2 ore 3 years only, once 4000 series are released, is just wrong, because you shouldn't buy a product and expect it to be good for just a couple years. 
 
Also, for all of you who say that the card is good enough, I tell you this: you don't buy a high end product to settle for good enough. And hey, the RTX 3080 is not even that.
 
https://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/joao-silva/galaxs-leaked-roadmap-shows-rtx-3080-20gb-and-rtx-3060/

I once had a seaggate HDD reporting errors in crystal disk info after 3 years of use. And even though I saw failure rate statistics, I didn't think it would die. It died within a year.
 
Come to think of it. Crystal disk info data is hard to make sense of. It always says good health even when read error rate clearly exceeds treshold.

To enter the competition, you needed to post the video on youtube and fill out the gleam form which was in the video description. It had you link to the video and fill in some other details (I believe, I never actually applied). I believe they do this so they have contact information for the winners and potentially so they can ensure that all entrants meet the deadline. Unfortunately, I do not think they go through the youtube videos with the hashtag so unless you filled out the form, I do not think the submission would be considered. 
Sorry for the bad news, the video was great and looked like it took alot of hard work.

16gb of shared ram and vram if I remember right. My point here is that every time a console launches, games start getting much heavier and better looking on PC. It's been like that for years.

close to the GPU are electrical noise filters. Asus uses 6 of the best. Founder's edition uses 2, all the others use 0-2. The rest of the 6 are the cheaper ones
Use of 0 caused crashes at higher frequencies that people are reporting

If you have an anti static bag, put the card inside then add tons of foam.
 
It's generally best practice to keep the boxes of stuff you might resell down the line.

lots and lots of padding and prayers, a few sacrifices to the elder gods helps. on the rare occasions that i didnt hoard the original box for something ill box up the main item in a form fitting box very tightly and then box that box up in another layer of padding. had to do that for my founders 1080ti and z370 itx. id put my vote for something paper-based to insulate the card from static electricity if you dont have anti static baggies.
 
then again you can be like the people who ship me their stuff, its a genuine miracle what can go through usps without falling apart. had a dude put a big ass 980ti in a 1650 box with no padding, all fucked up on delivery though it was surprisingly salvageable. had someone throw an x570 atx board in a big box with some ram in a ziploc on top of it, no padding except for some uneven styrofoam blocks at the bottom. zero damage somehow. had someone ship me a power supply in an oversized box with a restaurant portion of packing peanuts, zero damage. i dont know how those people can get away with that sorta thing but its apparently possible, i always pack my shipments super securely and even then i worry lol.

I won't pay more than $120 for a 3GB 1060.

I see that is a good point my guy, maybe ill just opt for Xe

This is what drove me away from AMD. I had 1 card, 10 years ago (can't remember which AMD card it was) and it was a driver nightmare. I love that NVidia drivers seem to make their cards better, even older cards. That's been my issue with AMD's video cards. Funny cause I jumped into AMD CPU's for the first time in 20 years with my new rebuild. (800mhz Athon 64bit was the last time I used one)
I guess you can liken AMD to a modified/ hot rod car. You have to manage the weirdness to keep it running well. 

Lol I just read this a "mosquitoing people".  

If you want a HDD without SMR, you're basically looking at NAS drives (not including the WD Red), such as the Red Plus, Red pro, Ironwolf (Pro), etc. or high end desktop drives like the WD Black or Toshiba X300.
 
Most 'normal' desktop drives like the WD Blue, Seagate Barracuda or Toshiba P300 are SMR.
Or of course shucking external drives is possible too; just gotta make sure the connectors are not soldered onto them (which I don't know if they do it on 3.5" drives, but that was kind of a thing on some 2.5" WD external drives).
 
/r/datahoarders probably has some good info on that

this doesn't surprise me, for reasons I can no longer further elaborate because of the mods and the CS 

nvidia lists 350 watts for the 3090, and 320 watts for the 3080. Usually their spec sheets for that stuff are pretty accurate.
 
Unless you're running a pretty big CPU like a threadripper 32 core, you should have plenty of juice. A Ryzen 5 3600 is sub 90 watts for peak loads, a Ryzen 7 3700X is barely over 100 watts. The rest of your system will consume less than 100 watts altogether.

Don't all vega 56s have a dual bios switch and a backup bios? I know mine does.

I would return the cpu lol

I would return the cpu lol

Good thing I bought an EVGA 850 Gold power supply...

Seems too general. Random retro parts =/= collector's post

Just collecting them due to some of the following reasons (in my humble opinion):
 
1) most aesthetically appealing card of all time (green shroud)

2) infamous / history / hype / height of enthusiasm and discussion ... so much so it was covered with a full spread cover model

3) rarity
 
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Hoping to top off the collection with this frosted shroud early variant:
 

NEVER use the front audio connectors on your case. Its not as good as just plugging them into your mobo directly.

where and how are you plugging it in